need some pics and advice on how 2 properly hang a snare, ground height, loop size etc... have a lot of closed loops layin on ground. i get a few but not the numbers i want. any pointers?

Newt's books/tapes @ Snareone.com... Newt keeps it simple.

Your loop is too big and too low to the ground. Raccoon can be neck snared despite what people tell you, especially those big boar raccoons. Keep your loop a little smaller, a little higher and try a "chin up" stick. You will notice a big difference, I'll bet.

Also you need a support system that keeps your snare rigid and centered in the trail. I use a #9 support wire welded to my rebar stake.The snare is held to this wire with a plastic wammy built on the snare. Good luck

i use #11 wire for supports and 1/4 tubing for wammies. this snare isn't loaded all that much. sometimes i put the wammy next to the lock. my supports are 2' long precut and dyed. this is what that snare caught. for coon i'm 6" loop 6" high. depending on lock style, i'm at 1 'o clock-12:30 this is what i like to see in my snares. i use a 5' snare with a 4-8' extention. loop to loop on the extention, loop the swivel and chock a tree for the anchor. here is a extention that s-hooks to the swivel.

http://www.procoonsnaring.info/

Don't waist your time trying to neck snare coons. It can be done but not with consistant results. Coons simply vary in size too greatly from one to the next. I snare hundreds a year and can tell you no one neck snares them all. Use #9 wire for supports, use real metal wammys, and set your loops 6-8" off the surface of the trail to the bottom of the loop. Make your loops 7-8" across. You'll get them.

~ADC~

use real metal wammys,

what advantage does the metal wammys have compared to plastic

ADC is the king at coon snareing lol

I also started snaring coon. I had good results except I live in South Dakota and it seems that every pheasant around runs into the snares and knocks the support wire out of the collar. I've heard of bending a w at the end of the support wire and running the snare through that. Anyone do this?

blaine the only advantage I can see is that sometimes the plastic gets hard in the colder weather and can break or will be tougher to slip on the support wire.

Slackjaw we do not have enough information to give you solid answers.

Are you fence snaring or trail snaring?

What type locks are you using?

Supports?


You have gotten some good advice so far, but I would like to know more about what you are doing now before I go any further with advice.

SD small game like pheasants can be a pain in the rear, and sometimes there is not much you can do about it. However a knocked down snare is not neccesarily always a pheasant.

I have a friend who swears by the W bend, and he catches a lot of coon and fox with snares. I am personally a whammy or plastic tubing guy, but would not be afraid to try the W setup as I know it works.

Do you wrap the support wire around the stake? I did this last year and it seemed the coons wrapped the snare around the wire and made the swivel useless which then pinned them next to the stake making a heck of a mess. When I saw the w bend used they just stuck the wire in the ground. I'm wondering if this is what most do.

Having a solid support is key. The only thing that should move on the snare is the lock. I do not like driving the support wire into the ground unless you are really putting it in solid. I prefer a kill pole or if using a stake down setup I want the snare coming off the rerod stake, or driven into the ground with a good U shape or W shape bent in that end so the snare can't spin. I have never really found a good way to put the support in the ground, that satisfies me as much as attaching to the stake does.

I am playing more and more with neck snaring coons, and when it works it is real nice. They are layed out dead as a hammer. I have figured out over the years that fast locks and solid supports are very key to any snaring and very key to neck snaring. This last fall I was able to neck quite a few, and I used to think it could not be done.

If you are wrapping the support wire around a T stake, pre wrap them and leave a little pigtail on it that can seat down into the dirt when you stomp in the stake. I would show you a picture but have gone to almost all kill poles for trail snaring coon. You don't want a snare that will spin around because the support is just one little loop around the stake.

On my kill poles I have played with this and that. I really like having my support wire welded solid to them. However I have tired of the weld breaking when I am driving in the stakes. I then went to a solid wrapping setup that works OK, and no broken welds but uses lighter wire which is not as rock solid as I like. I am goind to weld up a bunch this year, and wrap the wire and weld in several spots to spread out the shock that breaks welds when I am hitting it with a hammer.

Also I donot care about swivels so have not worried about the wrapping up you are talking about. I am working with entanglement which renders swivelling at the stake useless. I am on a 24 hour check using 3/32 cable.

I made all my supports 4 wraps around a one inch pipe with a 2-3 inch tail. here in SD we have to have swivels and they have to be under 4 inches or I could use a really neat setup that uses the support wire as the swivel and shorten up the legnth of the snare cable. As for kill poles I have seen a far off picture but that is about it. I would be very interested in how these work.

A kill pole is a rerod piece that is driven into the ground alongside the trail. Most of my kill poles for coon are around four feet long, and you should use 1/2 or 5/8 rerod for coon. 3/8 is just to thin for anything in my book. 1/2 inch will bend if you catch a coyote.

I beleive Ron Hansen from Iowa originated the kill pole, and may variations exist as far as how to hook your snare to it, but the concept is basically the same.

Here is one that has everything wrapped on it, rather than welded. This is some real hard rerod, and I just flat out can't any welds to stick to it for long, without breaking of when hammering on the rod. This system works, but a solid weld is superior. I iwll try to remember to snap a photo of a welded one tomorrow to put on here for you.



The pole is driven beside the trail and a foot or two of it left above ground. It blends in with the weeds most of the time, and I have snared coon on open trails with them with no problems. The pole gives the coon something to entangle on, holds the snare where I want it far more solid than a support wire driven into the dirt or coming off of a T stake.

You can see on top of the pole where the snare is attached. It can be a loop or in my case it is a rectangle or square. That is the anchor point for your snare. The support wire also comes off the pole and should anchor solid to the pole.

Welding is better, but if you try wrapping them like I have on here, check it after each catch. Sometimes the wrapped anchor wire starts to loosen up from the animal fighting, and you should tighten it with pliers if that happens. Also if you try wrapping with wire, cut off sharp ends and flatten down ends that stick out so they won't hang up on the fur and cause damage.

Keep in mind, even though I am posting this photo, I prefer welding on my anchor point and support wire. The acnhor point set up like this will hold everything, and will not come off. However the support wire loosens after a catch, and I prefer a thicker guage support wire, but to wrap as tight as I like to was forced to use thinner wire and twist it together.

#9 wire welded on is best.

I just re read my post, and that is a pole without a snare. All you see is the pole and support. Where I told you to see where the snare is attached, I do not mean there is a snare there. The snare anchors into that square anchor point. I loop mine through, some guys I suppose use a tie wire.

How do you connect the snares to the anchor. I wonder this for remakes just down a trail or do you have to use another premade one. Also Thanks for taking the time for explainations and picture. It has helped alot!

Hope this helps. You just reuse the pole and support over and over again. The support does not always loosen up when wrapped like this but I want it rock solid tight so am usually cranking on it with pliers after a catch. This thinner support wire is a little bouncy for my taste, but has actually served me very well. I got a bunch of this rerod that is great stuff, but very hard to weld to which is why I went to this. If I was a trapper with no access to a welder, all mine would be set up this way.

The support wire in this photo is down to one side. Obviously in a real setup it would be supporting the snare.

Also I stated earlier that a foot or two of the pole is left out of the ground. I must correct that, as I am using a four foot pole, and leave around three feet out of the ground, so am driving it in a foot or two, not the other way around.

I see now why this setup is so good and why you said you work for entanglement. I sure wish we didn't have the swivel law. I would change to this setup in a heartbeat. Thanks again.

I am headnig to bed, but you can sure have a swivel on this setup and just wire it to the anchor point. What the coon does with the swivel and snare after he is caught is not your problem. I am thinking you should be able to use kill poles in SD without violating any law. I just don't use tie wire because I want tied off with snare cable. If I was in SD I would use swivels to comply, and would tie off with strong wire to the pole.

You can definitely use a swivel on k9's set up. Just slide it right on and support it to the wire. Some coons you catch will be entangled and others will be swiveling and spinning circles.

I am a loop on the anchor end guy too Tex. I can't se putting in a weaker wire to hold a good snare. I do not use swivels so only know to tie them off with wire.

So you are putting the swivel over the top of the rod? Looking at the photo of my rod it is above the anchor point? I think I know what you are talking about but want to be sure. I am imagining a snare with a loop on the end for anchoring and a swivel somewhere in the middle or near the loop. Is that correct?

Tex I have not messed with moving my deer stops so have no expereince with it. Are all your incidental fox alive with that setup?

Another question. In slipping the swivel over the top what prevents this from coming off the top. I like the idea of running the swivel through the anchor and slipping on the top but I just read the regs and they say the swivel must operate freely when set. Wiring it to the anchor sounds good as does putting it over the top to act like another swivel if I can find out how to keep it from coming off.

I am not sure what Tex was getting at and I am sure he will explain. I try not to use tie wire but would if regs forced me to use swivels.

I take it entanglement is the main reason for using this setup. If it is, wiring it to the bar at the anchor would let the swivel work when set but the anchor would stop the swivel when the coon starting spinning thus letting the rig do it's job. I believe this would work and also be legal.

I like the entanglement, some do not. I also like the way this puts my snare up where I want it (from above) as opposed to the side, and holds it there solid as a rock. I prefer kill poles over normal staked down rigs.

what if u wrap ur #9 wire around the stake, just below the washer then bend the rest of the wire in a u and shove the stake and wire in the ground. then take the other end of the # 9 wire, "the support" and bend a u in it and lay ur cable in that, and sinch it down tight. would that work? then pound a nother stake in the ground for the anchor.

Snaring for the birds steel traps and connibears all the way unless snares is all you can use then I feel sorry for you.

slackjaw no matter how you attach or drive the support wire in just make sure it is solid. Won't sway back and forth etc. Some soils this isn't hard to do, other soils it is real hard to do.

As far as using a U shape to hold your snare up, you will be better off attaching the snare to the support wire solid. Whammies, plastic tubing are the most common way. Another thing you can do, is just carry a roll of black electricians tape in your pocket. Wrap it around the snare and support wire just above the lock, and in no time at all, you have a solid snare. Maybe not as good as a whammy, but plenty solid when you are just snaring on ground where you are not trying to position the snare to compensate for a slope. I always have a roll of tape in my pocket. I make my own snares and once in a while I start making a set and see that I forgot to put a whammy on during my snare manufacturing. So I just tape it right to the support rather than walk back to the truck and get another one.

If you already have snares that have no whammy on them, just use that method and you will do well. Another thing I use is just a plain old nut that would thread on to a bolt. Get one about the size of a whammy and put it in place of the whammy while making snares. It will lock the snare onto the support wire as well as a whammy does if you have the right size.

D as far as snaring being for the birds, you are missing the boat, and I feel sorry for you. I also use steel traps and connibears, and snares are the most pet friendly tool that we have. All the hype surrounding snaring is just that, and I have to be very careful where I use 220's here in pheasant hunting country. Snares I can put anywhere, and the hunter just lets his dog loose.

220's are for road ditches on highways. Hunters will not let thier dogs run free there.

LOL!!

Yep, I guess you have a point. I mean snares don't freeze up, they take less than 10 seconds to set, cost less than 75 cents to make, no different than a leash on a non-target. Work no matter the wind direction. High water doesn't effect them. Heck they even work in a drought.

I should re-evaluate why I use them.

thanks K9

Jimmy Durante
Now let's hear the rest of the story!!

Nice download of info there, thanks Tex. You are right the plastics do stiffen up in colder weather however I will continue to carry my tape, as it has saved me many a walk back to the truck.

I see your point on the kill pole. Duh so simple it should have jumped up and bitten me.

I figure fur damage from snaring this way. I am working and getting better at neck snaring coon, zero fur damage. In the meantime my snared coon tend to be bigger coon, so my buyer has commented in the past that he is not docking the snare damage. The biggest thing to me, is that I have no worries about bird dogs like I would with my 220's, so I would prefer the snare in many locations or would go to a dog proof setup otherwise.

Great info and thanks.

They hold MUCH more solid to the support than the plastic, and they can be used over and over. Lets see someone be able to consistantly tilt the snare to keep it at 90* to the surface of the trail with any other style support other than tape. I've never seen a better way. I'm talking size specific wammys 3/32+9ga. in most of my set ups. Not them junky cone shaped spring metal wammys...


Here's my kill pole set up....



That bieng said, I will not be using it much in coming seasons, reason bieng is the locations where I like to snare are prone to theft and killpoles aren't cheap as my regular set up. I also don't like them coons wrapped up tight and alive as can happen on these poles if you don't get a neck catch, reason bieng is I run so many snares that it may be after noon before I can get to all the sets and I get chew outs, even with 3/32 cable.

The set up I really like and will stick with is very simple yet very effective and I have not been docked by my buyer for a mark left by the snare when using this method... ever! Plus I almost only catch big coons 2x or bigger and no skunks or possums. Try that with a body gripper. LOL

For coon and fox…

I use 48" of 7x7 3/32 cable, good washer locks, a metal whammy, deer stop, and a 9ga swivel at the end. This combination of a big smooth lock that won't dig into the fur and larger 3/32 cable leaves no damage to the pelt. I use a piece of #9 wire for a support and a 24" long 1/2" washer top rebar stake. The way I set them for coons and fox is I put the snare on the stake with my #9 wire “pigtailed” on the stake. I pound the stake in the ground right beside the trail. Then I make a 7-8" loop from the snare and push the whammy up to the lock then on to the #9 support. I then lift the loop to 6-7" off the ground to avoid skunks opossums and little coons. I place the loop directly over the center of the trail. I try to set where the trail is naturally narrowed down and I use very little if any blocking or guiding. I also prefer there to be nothing as far as entanglement but if there is a short log or rock or something they can reach after being caught they tend to concentrate on it and not on chewing the snare. If I find the snare knocked down the next day I raise it 2" cause 9 times out of 10 it is a extra large coon or fox and you'll most often have them the next day.

Also as soon as the coon is dispatched, I cut the snare off, then pull and stretch and rub the area of the fur where the snare was. This will greatly reduce the "snare marks".

As far as locations, STAY AWAY FROM THE WATER! The big coons travel the high ground much more than down near the water. You'll get many more little dinks in water that you just as well let grow until they are worth something. I look for trails along hilltops, through dry culverts, and high on the creek banks. Coons in more open areas use landmarks alot. If you see a lone tree, telephone pole, big fence post, etc... Always look for a trail past them.

Here’s the pigtail (I weld them on the stake now-a-days)…


Here’s the wammy/lock…


The whole set up…


This method is for live catch snaring, which is recommended in Iowa for fox and coon. Here's why...
It is very difficult to neck snare coons so in order to make maximum catch numbers you should just target the body catches which are much easier and use the right snares to virtually eliminate snare damage to the coons. As for fox, due to the regulations stating that all snares must have deer stops that won't allow the loops to close smaller than 2 1/2" in diameter, you can't kill fox with the snares because that big of a loop won't asphyxiate them unless you limit your sets to locations where they will tangle up and actually hang themselves.

~ADC~

WHEW! My finger hurts. LOL

Lol yea I guess you should re-evaluate your situation when it comes to trapping coonhangman lol

"I get chew outs, even with 3/32 cable"

Really? Are you talking coon Jamie? This has not been my experience. I know at times we have bought cable from the same place, so it can't be that. You got me scratching my head.

"As far as locations, STAY AWAY FROM THE WATER! The big coons travel the high ground much more than down near the water. You'll get many more little dinks in water that you just as well let grow until they are worth something."

I used to believe this too, as strongly as you, but I have been catching some mighty big coon in the water. I think your "show coon" last fall was in the water too? I have changed my mind about the dinks. After talking with some pretty serious coon killers over the years, I have decided that it is to our advantage to get these small coon out of the breeding pool. I have had too many very experienced, hard running coon guys tell me this to not believe it. On average, you will ctahc more big coon on dry land, but you will drive by many many coon in the water that could have ended up in the back of your truck. At $3 per gallon gas, and with a carcass market that pays my gas bill, I can't drive by them.

"I have not been docked by my buyer for a mark left by the snare when using this method..."

We have the same buyer, he does not dock for snare damage, or if he does it is without our knowledge. I can make the same statement with any coon snaring method. I am not arguing, but take your coons to some buyer who is grading hard and is against snaring, and I have seen a few. He will dock you no matter what you do. We are blessed with a snare friendly buyer Jamie.

I am not a fur buyer, but I promise you if you lay down five trapped coon and five shoulder/hip caught coon, I can pick them out most of the time. Even if youare picking out the snare mark while they are warm, I can still find it as can most experienced guys such as yourself. Plus, our buyer is usually getting your carcasses. So he is factoring in couple bucks per critter in your average into his own pocket. Not much when someone only brings in one, but starts to add up if you are bringing in 10 a day.

The reason I am bringing this up, is not to argue, but to point out that those others reading in may not have a snare friendly buyer, and will get a shock when they bring them snared coon.

I have met buyers who have told me they hate snares, and that they don't want them (snared coon) even brought in. Come to think of it, most of those guys are no longer in business.

Well boys, keep it up. I'm learning more here than on most videos and books I buy. As I said before I just started using snares last year. Thus far they have worked well. I like being able to hang 7 or 8 on a couple heavily traveled trails by a grove and come back to 2 or 3 coon. The reason I went to snares and have so many questions is where i'm at, unless I'm trapping water the coon don't seem to hit alot of bait because of the amount of corn that is around. With snares last year being my first year with snares I still caught more coon with snares than with traps. Most of that comes from being able to go to a spot, load the heck out of it with snares, and be out in less time then it takes to make 5 sets. Again thanks for all the info.

Here in VA we are handicaped by a 12 inch max height. Top of loop to the ground! Kind of hard to run a 8" loop eight inches off the ground with this type of regulation!

Personally I think this needs to be changed. Especially for guys trying to run snares for yotes, fox, coon.

About the only thing it doesn't affect is beaver snaring.

Lots of good info here. Thanks!

Yep. If they get tangleed up tight (ie. my swivel fails and it does sometimes) I loose 3-10 coon/year to chew outs. However since I switched to all 9 ga. swivels, welded pigtail supports and added a "toy" at as many sets as possible that 3-10 is down from 15-25 in years past. Like I said it is sometimes 3pm before I can get to every set, especially on days when I'm moving sets and running foot traps in the water. Which brings up the "stay away from water" comment. That is just what I say to avoid dinks, there are big coons in water (31+lber last season, correct) but there are alot of dinks in there too. Personally I'd think we are better off to let them grow til next season or two, that is if they are small due to bieng young and not runts I guess. lol

AS for our buyer, we are blessed, you're correct. However I used to sell to a different buyer or three and still didn't get docked, they complained, lol, but I still got the same as the next guy with all conibeared coons. I think the buyers appreciate getting all 2x or bigger coons too, they make more on them right?

I still don't understand you snare loss issue, as I use no swivelling at all, and believe me, some get checked later than 3pm that first week when I am going hard. The only thing I can figure is it must be an entanglement VS stake down snare thing, because that is the only difference overall in what we are doing. Kill pole coon is getting cinched up against the pole, and is sometimes dead if necked VS staked down coon who is spinning round and round.

As far as the water is concerned I am not being mean here, because Jamie you help a lot of people out, and you provide some good information. But when you make the bold statement, and you took the trouble to make your letters bold, to stay away from the water, you are going to get called on that. Yes you avoid dinks when you stay away from the water. You also greatly reduce your catch. I have done it both ways, setting only land and setting water, and I personally want a combination of both on my line. So you are telling people, who will take you very seriously because you have helped them in the past, to stay away from the water. I guess the question is, are you taking your own advice? if if not, why?

Cause the coons are in the water. Yes you will catch bigger ones on land, but less of them. You will catch a mixed bag (size) in the water but more of them. If you are driving by water you are driving by a lot of coons,it's just that simple.

Yes our buyer is liking those 2x on up coons. But as far as snare marks go:

"It is very difficult to neck snare coons so in order to make maximum catch numbers you should just target the body catches which are much easier and use the right snares to virtually eliminate snare damage to the coons."

I hate so say this but you are getting pretty loose with the words "virtually eliminate". The mark is there on a hip or chest snared coon. You might minimize it but it is there, and your furbuyer knows it. It is there on the leather side too.

If I can see it, so can the furbuyers. We are not re inventing the wheel here, it is what it is.

I may try Tex's idea on the deer stops though, just to see how it treats my hipped coon. I am also going to focus even harder on the neck snaring, as the more I mess with it the better it gets. That is the way to virtually eliminate snare marks.

You have convinced me of one thing though, entanglement rocks.

I have to agree with nearly everything ADC has said. ADC revealed one important point to reducing snare marks, make sure to rub down the snare mark when the coon is warm. My basic procedure is to shoot the coon, cut the cable, rub down the burn mark, and toss it in the truck. This really reduces the snare burn.

I have sold to several different buyers as well, I have been docked for snared coon, but the two buyers I use most frequently do not dock my snared coon, or at least don't make it obvious. There are a infinite number of snare set-ups that can be used to catch coon. As ADC knows my set-up is nothing close to anything described on here and it has worked thousands of times. The key is to find what it most time efficent without reducing effectivness.

Bruce I don't know how else to say it but perhaps your correct to reduce chew outs then use a kill pole. I'd like to see the difference between the snaremarks on a hip caught coon on a killpole vs. a hip caught coon in my most used set up. I'd think the brusing and severity of the mark especially on the leather side would be much more pronounced. Then again with our buyer that may be neither here nor there.

How often do you have coons chew the area where the snare is cinched onto it leaving bald spots or worse? I get that one in 75-100 maybe.

As for the water.... AGAIN, lol. I don't set any snares near the water except beaver snares. I do set foot traps in the water for coon but only so I can catch mink too, I love catching them.

Fact is the water sets slow me way down and I'd likely not set any for coon only a few for mink but my partner likes them. If I were running alone I'd never step foot in the water to catch coons. I could get out more snares. I catch more bigger coons high and dry vs. the dinks in the water.

Good luck on the neck snaring. I just do not think you can neck snare them all without missing alot of coons. For a guy like me who uses coons as his bread and butter of the line that's a big deal. That is why I had high hopes for the kill pole set up I showed you at the ITA, I thought "if it works" it would be perfect. But It wouldn't work 100% for me, although it was nice looking.

iacoonkiller do you ever have coons chew the cable and get away?

~ADC~

I would estimate that 1 in 75 to 100 coons chew throught the cable, at most. I would say between jacking the stake, chew outs, and ruined coon (coons chewed on by something or by themself) I lose about 2 or 3 coons out of 100. Of course that's not ideal, but it's number I can live with. To me it's just the nature of the beast.

As far as neck snaring goes, to be honest 95% of my coons are body snared. My system doesn't offer a lot of opportunity for neck catches and since it doesn't bother Smith or Davis, it doesn't bother me. I get the same or better money for body snared coon as guys get for 220 coon. A lot of that is volume and size.

That is almost identical to my results as well.

~ADC~

Another thing to concider, I don't miss red fox with my set up either. I caught several red fox in snares last season that most snare guys would miss with smaller loops closer to the ground. They are anouther added bonus, plus no skunks, and only one possum (still not sure how that happened) all season in snares.

I have an occasional damaged hip when they cinch up, but I have seen that with staked down setups too, so it is neither here nor there to me on my line. I oculd not put a number on the hip damage where the cinch up occurs because it is just not that regular of a thing. I will estimate one in a hundred, but that might be a bit high.

I used to have abit more of that, and think I figured out the problem. I was using a lot of washer locks, and was reusing them. After a few catches they start to wear out the hole and the snare does not cinch properly, allowing the lock to move aorund a bit in the hip area and not settle in properly. I still use some washer locks, but am quick to throw them away when the hole starts to wear. I am slowly going to all cam locks, and the cam cinchs down and stays there, minimizing if not negating hip damage.

I am not setting all my coon stuff up for neck catches. I started several years ago trying to, and the more I catch that way the more I tend to set that way. However a lot of mine are still set up the normal way. I am getting more confidcence in the neck catching, and one of these days may go to all smaller loops.

The older and more experienced I get, the smaller the loops I use for coon.

The only thing that slows me down with water trapping, is I am catching coons there. Got to kill the coon and remake the set, and that takes time

One other thing to consider before I go out and stretch some coyotes that are left ovrer from last winter. I do not know the answer to this, because to me the snare mark is about the same.

Which will mark himself more>

A coon that is walking round and round in circles and hitting the end of the snare.

Or a coon that cinches up against entanglement and is held relatively still?

Having never snared Iowa.(Maine,Indinia,New Jersey,North Carolina,Mississippi,Maryland,Virigina,and Tenneasee) I'm gona stay out of this therad. But will continue to read it.
The main reason is I dont like or use. #9 wire supports,Rerod stakes ,Washer locks or 3/32" cable.
From reading this thread thats what everybody uses in Iowa.

K9 and ADC you guys keep referring to your fur buyer not docking for snare caught coon. If you wouldnt mind could you tell us who your are selling to? Are you selling on the carcass, skinned green, or put up dried and sretched. Thanks for all the info!

I sell to Jim Smith in Tama/Toledo and he is an honest buyer.

I sell all my coon skinned, occasionally a stretched one when I get in the mood, but mostly in the grease.

Hop in Newt. I have tried other cables but keep coming back to 3 32. Most of our snaring here is road ditch snaring on trails through grassy/brushy ditches.

I owuld be very interested in your opinions on snaring, stakes, locks, support wires, etc.

We sell to Jim Smith in Toledo, I sell green or on the carcuss.

"Which will mark himself more>

A coon that is walking round and round in circles and hitting the end of the snare.

Or a coon that cinches up against entanglement and is held relatively still? "

I don't know which one leaves a more severe mark, the one with a loose loop on it like a leash while he frolicks around in the grass or the one wrapped up so tight on a pole that he can't hardly breath. Depends on how you look at it I guess. I'll ask Jim if he knows when he's over here this week end.

Newt throw your two cents in here anywhere. We like debating, it's how people find choices and weigh their options. There is more than one way to skin a cat. If you want to skin yours the hard way, no big deal to me. lol

~ADC~

k9, What size wire do you use to support your coon snares?

If I remember correctly, it was several small strands of wire, as I remember struggling setting that one snare for you on the highway.

As I said. I never snared Iowa ditch banks. There,it sounds like your using a snare set up thats "site specific".They must work out there.

ADC, We nead to get you out of Iowa.And in the woods,marshes,swumps,and boat trap/snaring tide water creeks and rivers. Then I could see you fight with your rerod and #9, and tow rope 3/32" cable

I run two type of supports. One with the very thin wire that you have seen, braided by twisting it and then one with very thick wire, a hair thicker that #9. #9 would be fine, but I get this thicker wire for free off of old political signs. It will barely fit into a whammy.

ADC I predict Jim will have ahard time answering that,without going out and trapping 100 coon both ways and comparing them side by side. Also it is all in how you pose the question. I don't think a coon would agree that he is "frolicking" when heis in your snare.

I saw Jim asparagus hunting the other day. he said coon did all right so far, and he has a big sale coming up. I have about 15 coyotes that I did not have time to put up, and he wants to buy them so I am getting them ready.

I have used some thinner cable and like it. I actually bought a dozen or so pre made snares from the snare shop last year, first time someone else has made my snares for me in a long time. Very fast little snares and nice little neck snaring unit other than the whammy was worthless. I may get more or make some like them, as I do like the speed/sensitivity of those little snares.

Newt when is your snare video hitting the market?

I have snaring videos/DVD's on the market.
MASTER RACCOON SNARING
MASTER BEAVER SNARING
CABLE RESTRAINTS
Soon to be releasted MASTER MINK and MUSKRAT SNARING

-----------------------------------------------------------
Videos/DVD's I did with Clint Locklear. Both have a lot of snaring in.
RIVER'N
OTTER'LY SIMPLE
and one about turtle trap'n
TURTLES BY THE TON
I also did a Snaring peice for TRAPS 4 KIDS

I thought you had a new snaring video coming out. I am aware of some of your others. Good info. Must have been the mink one I am hearing about.

So if you don't mind me asking, your thoughts on an entangled coon VS a coon spinning around in the open in a snare?

I thought "frolicking" was a good touch.

Yep Newt tell us about your set-up and why you like it. You don't think K9 and I are going back and forth on this for our benifit do ya? The more info we put out there the more people can see their options and figure out what will work for them.

" ADC, We nead to get you out of Iowa.And in the woods,marshes,swumps,and boat trap/snaring tide water creeks and rivers. Then I could see you fight with your rerod and #9, and tow rope 3/32" cable "

Is that an invitation?

K9 I buy most of my cable, locks and ferrules from the snare shop and was told by Ronda that the snare portion of the bussiness was sold to one of their employees.His name is Jeromy Sommerfeld. I havent heard where he is goona locate the business yet.

Met him. Nice guy. Snare shop has great supplies and service I just do not care for the new all purpose whammy they are selling.

Yeah, I wonder what they were thinking when they thought those spiral wire whammies were a good idea. I struggled with them, as I was use to the metal whammies, and just squeeze/twist on, adjust and go.

ADC, Come on out for a week in December. I'll be Rat trap'n Runn'n a boat line in NJ. Feburary I'll be in NC with a mixed Boat line

K-9, Very seldom do I snare a coon on open ground. Anything for that matter.
I did'nt see where the coon were any better or worse.Rember we dont have the coon denancy out here as you guys got. So I dont have the number of animals to study.Heck I think my biggest coon day was 18.And out here everybody could'nt beleave that I could catch that many.Last year I could'nt 2 a day. So I did'nt even try.Went and traped rats.


I use 14ga. wire to support all my snares from Ground Hog/Rabbit to Black Bear.
98% of all my snares that I set are Extension Cabled off to a Tree or some other vegation.I use entanglement and like it.On K-9's if you dont kill'm or tangle'm up. Your gona loose to many.
My suport wires are kept short. So when a animal enters a snare the only thing that moves is the LOCK.

(I'll be back monday go'n to the NE NTA)

I agree, you want them dead and entanglement is key.

Come on out to coon country, we allow non residents.

Yeah Newt, come on out, you could pay for your non-res license opening morning! Just be sure to trap in Tama or Poweshiek Counties, as that's where all the coons are.

I don't think there's a untrapped ditch left in Tama and Poweshiek county

I agree with ADC, K9, and sd boy.

K9 you don't have to drive by those water coon if you place your snare as described by ADC. Keep the bottom of that snare loop up around 6 inches and you can sort out the skunks, possum, and small coon no matter where you set. By keeping the snare up, you can leave the small coon to reproduce, grow up, and be worth twice as much next year. That being said, I still think the highest probability of catching large coon is where the coon stay dry and fluffy.

Where I put up most of my coon, I would rather end up with a finished coon worth $25 - $30 than a finished coon worth $10 - $15. That way I can kill half the coon and still end up with the same dollars. I can't brag about the numbers at the coffee shop, but I can still buy coffee. I also have to agree that one must find snare friendly fur buyers and I am also lucky because I have not knowingly been docked for reasonable snare marks. However, I think that rubbing the snare mark area as soon as the animal is dispatched reduces the snare mark.

As sd boy says, it is nice to gang set a trail, pick off the large high value harvestable coon quickly, and move on.

I can almost guarentte you're right about that. LOL I even snare in two other counties besides those two.

Good to hear from you Griz.

~ADC~

ADC:

I snare two and sometimes three other counties as well.

To answer the original question for the thread, I use about a 7"-8" loop about 4"-6" off the ground. I catch very few oppossums (3 last year) and a few more skunks. I also use 3/32 cable and washer locks. I get along just fine with washer locks and have yet to notice them wearing out. I haven't bought new locks in 4 or 5 years, I suppose the wear is something I should watch for.

Dang guys, not sounding like there is much room for a poor Alaskan stuck in Iowa City for the next few seasons.

Illuminating discussion though. Very educational seeing how I have never seen a coon before in my life, let alone tried to trap one! The whole non-lethal snaring idea is quite different then my methods up here.

i just hope you guys stay out of jasper county.

I'd bet iacoonkiller is already in Jasper County. If He ain't he should be. lol It's awfully close for him.

I've thought of it but I run out of daylight before I get that far. lol

Joe if your Iowa City the next few seasons look me up, I'd love to meet you.

~ADC~

adc, the way i look at it- you snooze you lose may the best man win. the farms i trap, farmers start telling me in the summer, that i did not get em all. a guy can only skin so many? i also sell to jim, great guy indeed.

Trapperjoe, South Dakota is just a hop away. How do ya set up in AK. As I read this and correct me if i'm wrong but even the true snare believers are turning away from snares somewhat. I bought snares from my buyer this year and he is the same one who paid 10.38 ave on my coon. The dry land thing is somewhat true. Most of my dryland coon were bigger than my water coon. With that being said I don't understand why the pros are shying away from snares on coon. To me it is a numbers game. As far as I know I wasn't docked for a single snare mark. But even if you are, If you catch 20% more coon because you can set out 4-5 snares for every dirthole or cubby set (excluding conibears) and catch more coon how doesn't it add up. How much do you get docked per coon? I'm in no way claiming to be a pro because I'm learning more from this thread everyday but thats how I learn, by questioning. Lastly The reason I want to know about snares so much is because up to this year my best season was 48 coon With 2 doz 1.5s This year my total was 106 with 21 1.5's and 5 doz snares. Some of them I reused.

LOL You got that right. Iacoonkiller beats me to as many trails as I beat him to but we both find plenty of trails.

SD boy, that's the same logic I use, I try to catch more coons with my time rather than putting up the furs. It all evens out in the end but this way makes my buyer more money and a happy fur buyer is a good thing.

~ADC~

Yeah, I'll be coming down this fall and be there for quite a few seasons actually. Working on my PhD and teaching at the University of Iowa. Hope to do some trapping. I don't want to derail this thread any more than I have though, I'll start another one here at some point with a bunch of questions I have.

Snaring up here is a lot different. Lethal for one thing, but the main difference is that I am not targeting super high volume critters like coons and that changes the entire philosophy.

I trap some in Jasper county, it's some of my favorite stuff to trap, lot's of coons and lots of theives, of course you could say the same for Tama and Poweshiek.

Don't worry "iacooner" there's plenty of coons to go around, I think it's impossible to dent the coon population around here.

Speaking of meeting up ADC, I wouldn't mind crossing paths sometime with you. I've never met you personally.

sd boy, sure snaring can be a numbers game, Some seasons I've focused on the quality of sets and some seasons I've focused on the quantity of sets, both ways seems to yield the same results. The way I look at it, If I am driving from one great trail to another great trail, why not set in the mediocre trails along the way. I am suprised how some the saddest excuses for trails yeild coons year after year.

I am also big on double setting. I double set at least 50% of my trails, it makes resetting faster when I catch one coon in a trail, and it gives you frequent chances for doubles which are always nice to see.

I suppose it's also double the excitment for theives when they only have to stop once to steal 2 of my snares and stakes.

"K9 you don't have to drive by those water coon if you place your snare as described by ADC."

Griz your post made sense except for that part. I am dense tonight because Im not following you.

Joe several of us are only 45 minutes away from you. Do not be a stranger. You get in the area give a call. 641 522 9640

I assume you snare colder conditions than we do. When it gets down real cold here even a body snared coon dies pretty quickly.