If you could blow up the picture you would see CANADA on the pan. It was manufactured in Canada.
After realizing I would never use this trap for trapping I put the stock jaws back on. It's a wall hanger.

Will Sleepy Creek springs fit Victor traps?

Got an old #3 Vic with cast jaws ( not a 3n ) that has weak springs. Figured I could put it into service with a PIT pan, #3 SC offset jaws, and some new springs...

But after paying for all that I could probably buy a new SC #3 DLS.

Mike

Just put some on a #4 awhile back, the eyes were a little small but a vari bit solved that. They are a little shorter also.

I know this is an old thread but I'm bringing it back to the top. I'm sick as a dog and can't sleep hardly any, been running to the bathroom calling Ralph every ten minutes it seems. Guess i got some kind of virus or bug of some sort, erghhh. Anyway about what you said when it comes to using coil springs versus longs and long springs taking extra time to bed, I just gotta laugh when i hear someone say that because i can kneel down and bed a sleepy creek number 3 double long or victor number 3 double long faster than you can bed the same size coil spring and the double long will be rock solid, I don't have to do hardly any packing around jaws amd all that hoopla like you do with your coils. Only packing of dirt i do with a double long is the final covering of dirt over the trap then I'm off to the next one. If i had my choice between number 3 or 4 coil springs and number 3 or 4 double longs i would pick the double longs every time, why you ask? Because they are EASY to hed, they are easy to put big pans on (no notches to cut), they hold better than any coil spring ever thought about because of leverage and the design of the jaws, what i mean by that is after the curve in the jaw the rest is straight up and down and allows the trap to LOCK onto and not let go of whatever steps on the pan, another reason is they are more functional in freeze thaw conditions, if a coil spring freezes down guess what it's out of commission, if the bottom of the springs on a double long freeze down that trap will still fire if the animals foot hits the pan or busts through the crust of dirt or snow. The only reason I don't use all double longs now is because they cost alot more per dozen than my coils do. But i will have enough double longs to use as my number one trap one day and they'll all have Paws-I-Trip pans, center swiveled baseplates, 2 or 3 feet of twist link chain, a Jc Conner shock spring, Jc Conners new rod swivels, Jc laminations, huge expanded pans to eliminate the need for pan covers and wire screen for larger kill zone, oh yea I'm gunna inside/outside laminate them, probably be all Sleepy Creek number 4s to get the 6&1/2" jaw spread, might even convert them all to dogless traps too even though I don't know how. Anyway that whole idea of long springs being harder to bed is just something someone that didn't like em strted saying or came from people that have never really used them because if they did they would know for a fact that you can solidly bed a long spring trap when you cant get a coil spring bedded solid. I think the number one reason people don't use them is because of cost compared to coil springs. Just my two cents on the subject

Where do you get the oversized pans for Sleepy Creek #4 Double Longsprings?

Just go to local steel yard get them cut to size wanted or use electic box cover plates.

sleepy creek is advertising oversized pans they make called Big Pans. http://mtnrunsply.com/ give them a call

one thing I like about dls is cleaning them at the end of season....it can be a pain to clean dried black mud out of coils...and really don't like the rounded inside of the levers....

Just finishing this build. They were Victor #3s with the old hump frames.

You put that last big pan on upside down.

traps look like you painted them silver?

I think they are probably sand blasted.

ttt

I used double long springs this year, and prefer them over coils in every situation except flat sets in sod pastures. I have been wondering if those of you that like DLS like the #3 or #4 better and why? I have been using mostly #3 victors with step down Pit-Pans and quality chain and swivels as my only modifications. I also have tried a few #4's with the same set up and like them as well. What is your take? Thanks

As grey wrote earlier in this post, sizes vary and what one call a 4 another calls a 3 so your question is hard to answer. We ran vic and b&l 3 and 4s for many, many years. Used them for beaver and in the west they were our go to trap. My brother, who worked 34 years as a state wildlife control officer, always preferred the 3s for all his work. He believed they held better [design] and caught many nuscience beaver by the back foot and dont believe he cared which foot ie he did not set for the front foot.
Hard question to answer.

I believe the size of trap to use will be different when using coilsprings compared to longsprings. If you look at a coilspring trap there is less space between the levers when it is closed compared to the space between the springs of a longspring trap when comparing for example a number 3 coilspring to a number 3 longspring. Therefore I believe you can use a smaller jaw spread when using a longspring trap compared to a coilspring trap.

I think Snares&All, the originator or this thread, said it correctly. These double longsprings are great tools. I know all the rage these days is coilsprings but these traps for so many trappers require modifications to do what they want them to do.

Comparing the two types of traps the coilsprings are suppose to be lighter weight than longsprings. Most of the time this is not the case. Till you get done modifying the coils they end up being heavier than the longsprings.

I think the longsprings have a mechanical advantage over the coilsprings. Now you can make the coilsprings stronger with heavier music wire springs but that is an extra cost over the longsprings. So to say that the longsprings are more expensive is only a truth until you get some time on them. When time comes to replace the springs on the coils the longsprings are still going strong and will not need attention for years and years.

As far as coils being easier, I just don't see it. If, and only if there is any advantage in setting them in the field, they make up for it in maintaining them. I've used both and as far as bedding each is concerned I don't have any more time in a set using longsprings over coils. Sometimes bedding coils can be a bugger and they usually take more material in the bed area, especially in winter time trapping.

There are many topics comparing coils to longsprings. These are just a few I've thought about when deciding to use one or the other. For myself I would rather buy a trap and know that it will do the job I need it to do without me messing around with what the engineers thought was the correct style and strength of their product.

Using the longspring trap takes me back to a simpler time. It makes me take the time and do things right and not worry about getting on down to the next set so I can set more traps. There is something to be said for making good quality sets over more quantity of sets. I got caught up in all the hoopla when I got back into trapping a few years ago. There are more traps and methods now a days than you can shake a stick at. I will be getting back to my trapping roots next season and am looking forward to it.

Grey 55 they both have place on my line but if I want something caught in a iffy maintenance area of lot snow or really wet freeze thaw place dbls come out .
bar none my favorite cat trap is dbls

Well put.

I always thought the # 2 Newhouse would be a great all around trap....might change out chain or add a swivel.