I've been PROMISING this for awhile so here we go! This post will be on how to properly modify a longspring trap. Included in this post is how to take out the majority of the pan wobble and slop and how to impart a SET and CRISP pan tension! BEST PART..how to do it CHEEPLY and easily. There are "other ways",brazing,cutting welding etc that are great, but NOT cheep or easy OR easier to do!!
For this pictorial we will use a #4 Victor double longspring trap.
AND our necessary tools, a flat file, a XXX fine 3point file, vice grips or chanel locks,cutters and regular trapping wire.
The next two pictures show they typical dog/notch set up on many traps.. NASTY!!!

STEP 1. We need to square off the end of the dog, and square off not only the end of the pan, but square up the pan slot as well.
Notice the pan slow is fairly shallow, we need to make this DEEPER in order to get the 3 point fine inside here.
The pan squared up..
STEP 2. Using the 3 point (triangle shaped) file, we need to cut a slight groove across the end of the dog as CLOSE to the end as possible(if it is back a bit one can file down the end of the dog to take the excess away)..you will end up with a "tooth" all the way across the dog on the end.

STEP 3. Now we take the 3 point file and cut a similar groove into the top EDGE of the pan, this requires the notch in the pan to be slightly larger to facilitate the file.
Hook them together and you have what is called a MILES TRIGGER, this feature allows you a CRISP pan break with a set pan tension...something difficult to achieve on longsprings.
NOTICE the bite between the two!!
[OK...now that we have the Miles trigger down..we STILL HAVE ISSUES!!!! The pan still travels before it goes off..and the slop/wobble is HORRIBLE as usual.. WHAT can we do???
FIX IT!!
To eliminate the pan travel you need to use a pair of channel locks or vice grips and close up the eye of the dog. The dog needs to move freely HOWEVER if closed up properly it will NOT move forwards at all.. NO pan creep!!! Problem solved!!




NOW for the slop..NASTY SLOP!!
[url="http://www.hunt101.com/?p=519546&c=500&z=1"][/url]
We're gonna WIRE the trap!!
We start this by using regular trapping wire..you need to thread it THRU the top of the pan eye..then UNDER the bottom of the trap. Usually 3 wraps on a #3, 4 wraps on a #4. On this trap we get only 2 wraps as the eye was cut down in a feeble attempt to eliminate the wobble.
When you're done, twist it with a pair of pliers or similar.


NOW try the pan...90% of the pan slop...AND wobble are gone!!
[color=Red]You NOW HAVE a double longsping trap that's comprable to a coil WITH better holding ability!!! A set pan tension, NO pan creep, NO pan wobble. AND CHEEPLY done!!![/color] Hope this helps some people out.
Brent aka lynx

Missed ya Lynx, glad to see your back.

Tomcat..

Thanks Brent,

Good to hear from you!

Mike

FANTASTIC thanks for the great thread....this should be archived

Maybe later...let it run awhile...P L E A S E....

great post, i always thought you get what you get with longsprings, im gonna try that.

Great post! Have been swearing at my long springsbecause of these problems for 20 years. lol. Thanks.

It's cheep...easy..and flat out WORKS. It works well enough to use on exposed trap sets...misses??? NEXT TO NONE...the trap fires..there's SOMETHING in it.
lynx

It'll work great on the jumps..WORTHLESS traps otherwise..

Great post Brent....I do things a bit different as far as taking slop out of pan I hit the "hump" where the pan is attached a few times with a hammer to squeeze the gap inwards. Don't go over board here...Old C.Dobbins wrote about that methos a while back.
Welcome back...you getting the "itch" yet.
I'm ate up...lol

Missed your info post Lynx...I'll try this on some 3n's I have..

The "secret" to a good Miles trigger is a VERY fine edged file..HAS to be.

I love old longsprings and I love working on them. I'm going to fix all mine the way you have discribed.

good Job Brent I use to tighten mine up about the same way i do like that miles trigger set up . RayA


Ohh yaa welcome backkkkkkkkkkkkk

Great post and pic's

Great info can't wait to try some this weekend thanks

great post !!

Excellent post - this one's a keeper. Thank you.

thanx just got a bunch of #2s and #4s long springs and noticed the pan travel very informative thanx for the thread welder

Awesome post!!!!

WOW!!! Something helpful from Lynx???

Great Job; maybe he is reformed after all.

Thanks for your time and effort on this post!!!

BOSS,
Doesn't this need 2 go in2 the archives?
Thanks Brent!!

Who let the cat out of the bag? There goes all the peace and quiet.

thank you, I will use the wire trick

Stinky, if you replace the dogs with Bob Custer's heavy dogs you can get even a deeper notch.

Dont need or WANT a deep notch..JUST enough to hold it..

Goofy Stinky ifin you want more than a touch of pan tension the deeper notch helps.

PS good to see you back!

Cool post thanks!!!!!!!1

Good to see you 2 ya stupid duck...

wow I have some work to do, just picked all these a few days ago... for next to nothin'

THERE ya go...longsprings and jumps.. BOTH will benefit quite nicely...nice score!!

ttt

Nice post Lynx.

Finally a working mans fix, Thank You. Tom

Good post Brent.... I like (and second) MChewk's mention of hammering the hump from the side to add some tension to the pan and take out the slop.

Them longsprings are good traps

Great post hope its arcived many tks