Can you get them fully compressed?Aren't you worried about the amount of heat on the spring from welding it?

What size pipe did u go with?

Wow! I was told never to weld cast as it could cause large pits and flake off after it snaps a few times. I never did try it. I was using a 220 stick welder. Are those laminations done with wire welder on the cast jaws?
Great job! Looks excellent

Can you get them fully compressed?Aren't you worried about the amount of heat on the spring from welding it?

Wow! I was told never to weld cast as it could cause large pits and flake off after it snaps a few times. I never did try it. I was using a 220 stick welder. Are those laminations done with wire welder on the cast jaws?
Great job! Looks excellent

I think that was a good explanation Seldom. You could go with a slightly smaller pipe also to get the new flex points slightly further back. I might see if I can find some 3/4" outside diameter pipe to try. I have 20-30 of the older cast jaw traps that I wouldn't mind doing this to. Might as well get it right before I do all of them.

Great Idea.

1/2" pipe is 7/8" OD and 3/4" is 1-1/8"OD. Using a larger OD insert will certainly increase the strength of the springs by moving the bending apex even closer to the spring eyes(shortening the spring)

I'd suggest not using galvanized pipe for the insert or grind off the galvanizing if you have to use it. Zinc from the galvanizing will not stay in-solution in the molten weld puddle and will precipitate to the center of the tack. This coupled with the spring steel could easily cause a cracking failure of the tack.

1/2" pipe is 7/8" OD and 3/4" is 1-1/8"OD. Using a larger OD insert will certainly increase the strength of the springs by moving the bending apex even closer to the spring eyes(shortening the spring)

Seldom, I think he was referring to using a pipe that has a true 3/4" OD. Although I am not sure what "trade size" that would be. 3/8" maybe?

Mike

... I'm not sure but you all may be over complicating it. lol I'll bet you can get 10' of conduit in a size that will work just fine for like $2...

Spot, I got a wire welder if you need it.

Reading these posts...leads me to believe that some may be pipe fitters...because fitters know everything... just ask em! Great thread...very good idea Grant!

Cool...I am a contract welder at Dow Corning myself.

I would be worried about taking the temper out of the springs by welding to them, and with galvanized pipe you have to be careful not to inhale the fumes, but they look pretty good, do they seem a lot stronger?

Oic..u were Dow chemical.. not Dow Corning.

Grant you can remove the zink coating with Muratic acid.

Good to know. Since I don't have any muriatic acid, I think I will just buy some black pipe since it is very inexpensive and a small amount will do a great many traps. If a guy was to use the acid method, is there a certain time you would have to soak the galvanized pipe to remove the zinc coating?

The two methods I have seen for strengthening old longsprings that have gone weak are one, ruining another spring by cutting the eyes off, slipping inside of the weak longspring and then riveting or spot-welding in place. The problems I have with this methods are one, I don't have any old springs that I want to sacrifice, and two you are making the traps a lot heavier if you do any backpacking to a set location. The other method for strengthening involves putting the longspring over a pipe and hitting it with a hammer to bend the longspring back out. The problem with this method is that if the spring is really wore out, the "strengthening" may only last a few sets before it is back to its worn out state.

My thought this morning was, Why not leave the pipe inside the longspring? This will move the flex point some, but not very far.



The result is a very strong spring. The one on the left, I cut the pipe the same width as the spring, welded it, then ground the weld flat. I didn't really like it, so I cut the pipe 1/4" short on the second one and had about 1/8" recess on each side for my weld. What do you think? Good solution to an old problem? OR do you see a shortcoming in this method? I used old galvanized pipe that I had laying around, but you could buy new black pipe very inexpensive.

But cutting your pipe In Half makes more work.

Hang around some plumbing shop and I bet you could pick up all the short pieces of pipe for nothing. Or check Into some job site at noon I bet you could get a truck load of black pipe ends.
When I was In the trades we never took any short ends back to the shop.
Short chunks of re bar would work as spacers.

Reading these posts...leads me to believe that some may be pipe fitters...because fitters know everything... just ask em! Great thread...very good idea Grant!

I love to tinker and weld on traps, but have to play devil's advocate here.....

Why not just either buy a new set of springs or toss/replace the trap? Seems that by the time you mess with cutting the pipe and tacking it in place you could just spend a few $ and replace the springs just as easy. OR, just replace the trap....at approx $20 for a new #3/4 DLS cat trap that might get you a several hundred dollar cat it seems like the better time investment is to not mess with weak springs.

That said, I will try the pipe strengthening method too...just to satisfy my curiousity. Great post...Thanks!

Grant will pit pans fit #4 jumps?

Grant will pit pans fit #4 jumps?

Reading these posts...leads me to believe that some may be pipe fitters...because fitters know everything... just ask em! Great thread...very good idea Grant!

You ruined those springs by welding on them. The heat transfer will take most if not all the hardness and "Memory" out of them. Notice I didn't say anything about Tempering.

May be Sleepy Creek would do that to ther 1.5 long spring!!!!!!!!!! WEAK/SLOW Trap

Great Idea.