I thought I would show how I apply a basic tanning method to preserve a furskin for a wall hanging,later I will show the next couple steps for a garment tan.
I had a lynx pelt to work with as it was a skin that had some mange type damage on the belly so was not suitable for auction.
First pic-salting the fleshed skin.

Dry skin with salt scraped off after a couple days.
Next soaking,degreasing,rinsing.

Now the tanning-1lb of aluminum sulfate from the garden center and 1 lb of pickle salt from the grocery store and 2 gal of warm water.

After 3 days in the pickle tanning solution,you need to neutralize the wrung out skin with a handful of baking soda and a couple gal of water.
Then rinse,wring out,and lay out skin for an application of a tanning oil.If you don't have a commercial tanning oil,you can use dish soap cut with warm water 50-50.

Now after a day or two the leather will start to dry.You need to stretch the leather when it dries to break the fibers.I do this with a towel as a pad on the table for thinner skins,and for thicker skins I use a pad on the fleshing beam and a two handed breaking tool.

Next step is to sand off the bloom on the leather.For this I use a small sanding block,course sandpaper,and corn starch.

Last step is to clean the fur.For this I use a lamp oil(mineral spirits)spray on the fur,then rub it in good then a light spray of water then seal in a bag with cob grit and tumble in the dryer(with no heat)for half an hour.

Good post boco!

Wow, thanks Boco!

nice, I might have to try this

Sticky for sure!

Boco


wow, it don't look like you put much effort into showing us how to do that! (just so you know: that was criticisim that is ment to make you feel good about how great of a job you really did!)

thank you and I look forward to seeing the rest of your work on this!

Yea,I was documenting it for a demo I am doing for the Ontario convention In Blind River,so I thought some of you here might like to try it.Start off with groundhog skins or something no too valuable until you get the hang of it.It is pretty foolproof,I will put the next steps for a garment tan in the next couple days.

Thanks for this post Boco. I will try this with a coon I have in the freezer.

Finished skin after final cleaning and before garment tanning.
This skin would be good for a wallhanging as it is.

Archives?

I'm in on a ringtail. If this works out I'm gonna forget about all those commercial concoctions. I have all this stuff out here in the shed.

I have 2 deerhides oiled and drying right now that I will start breaking in a few days.

I hadnt tried the aluminium sulphate tan before so its good to see your results.

Why the corn starch for sanding? Just to keep the sand paper from sticking?

Yes the corn starch helps the sandpaper cut off the bloom,without getting plugged up,and this also helps to soften the leather.It is an easy step,just takes a couple minutes.

With a thicker hide after oiling,it is good to roll it up to let the oil penetrate in(sweating) before it starts to dry.
The tanneries do this with a machine called a kicker.

Old smoke,if you intend the skin as a wall hanging,this pickle tan is good,but if you intend to use a skin for a garment,you need to do the next step and do a garment tan.

OK, thanks.



Yep, already did that. I oiled it a second time and its now drying.

I will watch for it. I've tanned several hides to pretty soft. I've had real good luck with VanDyke's, R-P Outdoors, etc. This way just seems simple, with ingredients readily available. The only hide I lost was a large coon that didn't get fully degreased. You might explain that part to us. Thanks Friend.

does this work with dried skins by just skipping the salting step?

Yes if you have dried skins go right to the soaking stage,only thing,dont soak too long,or you could get some hairslip.
If the skin is not re-hydrating fast enough take it out and scrape it on the beam,especially hard spots,this will help the skin take up the water.

On greasy hides I use the laundry soap and a scrub brush to really give the skin a good going over.This helps a lot.Do not let the skin soak in the laundry soap,just wash good and rinse out all the soap.With a greasy hide it is good to really water down the tanning oil.A greasy type hide needs a lot less tanning oil.
The reason a pickle tan does not hold up in a garment is that the tan itself will leach out of the skin and with sweat and moisture over time the leather will become hard and crack.High humidity is not good for these skins either,so don't store them in a damp basement.

Now that the hide is pickle tanned I will mix up a commercial tan,and put the pickle tanned skin directly into the commercial tan mixed as per instructions.Since the skin is already oiled and broken,this last step just involves soaking,rinsing and drying the skin.It will soften very easily after the commercial tan,and will require no more oiling,although it wont hurt to re-oil a thick skin like beaver.You can also clean and tumble the skin again if you re-oil.
Since the skin is already oiled and broken,the commercial tan will penetrate the skin in a day,but I will leave it in longer to be sure.For thin skins you can get away with mixing the commercial tan half strength,as well as using the solution for more skins.You will need to experiment with this a bit to get the full use of your commercial tanning agent.

I have now finished the garment tan and this is what the finished skin looks like.It can now be sewn into a hat,or collar or other garment and it will stand up to the wear.



About 10 days total.

Looks like alot of work....think I'll just keep selling dried hides for beer money and use the cornmeal for frying catfish

...not much of a market for earmuffs and scarfs down here anyway, you hear me Boco lol

..probably not with those goofy earmuffs on

We call earmuffs,Bullshite protectors,Savell,lol.

Good job.

BOCO - I used your tanning formula on the ringtail. It turned out real nice. I never got around to the
tanning oil (which I have plenty), but it's pretty supple. The ringtail is thin skin. Sorry I don't do pics
Thanks!

TTT

Boco, is this the same process you would follow to prepare a beaver hide for a hooped wall hanger? Or how would that process deviate? Thanks, Al

Very well done....let this ride for a bit so more folks can view it. Then to the Archives it will go. Thank You. Tom

Boco,

Can't you go straight to the pickle after fleshing and skip the salting?

Yes you can use this for a wall hanging or beaver on a hoop.
You can go right to the pickle without salting.
If you need to do any shaving on the leather, the salting will help(as long as it is not salt dried).
Salting a hide then rolling it up for 2 days,unroll,shake off the old salt then it is ready for shaving.

Boco There should be a big market for those protectors in TX. You maybe hit a gold mine.

*

Boco, you will not understand how much I appreciate this thread! Thank you!

Please archive

Seconded...

TTT

yyyyyyyyyyes!!! *happy dance!! HAPPY DANCE!!!** thank you Boco..whooo needed this!
Was searching out this method!!

This is such a great post,hope it gets archived also!

Been ponderin on it and have a few questions if it's ok..

When you scrub with the sand paper,how hard do you press?

Is the dishwashing liquid the commercial tanning agent you use for gaent tanning to be complet,if nope,what do I need to look for instead?

Gonna make my daughter mittens=)

When sanding,you don't push hard,just go back and forth and round and round to cut off the "bloom",Dishsoap is just a handy substitute for tanning oil to lubricate the fibres.
A commercial tanning oil is better,but for your learning attempts it works fine,and everybody has some handy.

How do I Archive it?

Thank you so much Boco

Notify a mod.

I think I wall try this with a coon skin I have!!! I have already done the salting and fleshing part now all I have to do is the rest!!! Thank you very much sir for sharig!!!

TTT for all those with home tanning questions.

great info ,,thanks Boco