Great job on the clean-up, Old Boot. I'm guessing that the electrolysis doesn't remove any metal, just rust? For a ignorant old-timer, would you get into the specifics on your electrolysis bathing system? I'd appreciate it much.

Jack

Hi Jack, it is rather simple. I will take pics of my set up in the next couple of days and post.

This is a link to the site that I referred to. I also watched a few YouTube videos. It is very simple. I get some pics of my set up in a couple days


rust removal

Tui's anyone?

I’ve got a partial bucket of axes in the trap shed and I think I remember couple marked sager. Anybody here use that brand or know if they are of good quality?

Sager are very good axes. Made by Warren axe and tool in Warren, Pa. Some are marked Sager Chemical. A Mr. Sager invented a chemical process to make the heads wear longer.

Just reading the current edition of trappers post and in there I found a ad for snow and nealley Hudson bay trapping axe and kindling axe.

They caught my eye. Little pricey but looks very good quality.

I just looked and one is marked sager and another with chemical axe. I also seen marks from Kelly, Marshall wells,Collins and others. I’ve resisted cleaning them or even looking at them because I collect enough stuff already. This thread is not helping.

Nothing fancy but I like my little Marbles. Its a constant companion in the truck and nearly as useful as a swiss army knife.

Elecrolysis.


There are many good YouTube videos on this and a good site that I posted the link for in a previous post. I ain't no science teacher, so don't be expectin' them types of details.

I used: 5 gallon bucket, 6 rebar stakes, wire, wire nuts, a bolt, eye bolt, piece of wood,and battery charger.



I cut the rebar to length, as I didn't want them above the top of the bucket. Next, I drilled a hole for each of the 6 rebar. This was a couple inches from the top of the bucket. I tried to keep them equidistant, but eyeballed it so it ain't perfect. I used copper wire, since it will be above the water line. To ensure good contact, I wrapped the wire around the rebar 3-4 times. Leaving about 1.5 inch tails that I fed thru the drill holes.




After having wrapped the wire around the rebar and putting the tail thru the hole, I joined them together with wire and wire nuts.



DO NOT join them all together! Leave a gap. I added the bolt to have a good contact.



Notice the gap^^^^^. This is the POSITIVE post.

A scrap piece of wood with eye bolt to suspend the object on and to make a NEGATIVE post.

I use thin metal wire to the object to the eye bolt, as I read that copper can dissolve. It is important to have good contact between the object and wire. You may need to use a wire brush to improve conductivity.



I drilled a small hole about an inch from the eye bolt and pass the wire thru it, then wrap the wire a couple times around the bolt. This hole helps keep the wood from wanting to rotateas the weight is centered.

Next, add water and arm & hammer WASHING soda, not baking soda! This has do with chemistry- blah blah blah.



I put in ~ 4 gallons of water a table spoon of washing soda/gallon.

This is what it looks like running:



Remember the POSITIVE goes to rebar and NEGATIVE to the object!

Not all battery chargers work the same. I was in Lowe's and saw the cheapest one they had for $20 and it believe it work fine. If the charger use works and everything is connected with good conduct, you should know it is working fine in <60 seconds. You will see bubbling, like if you had a glass of sprite.



The rebar acts like a magnet to rust, but pulls in a "straight" line, this is why multiple rebar helps. I rotate the object a bit because my rebar are not equidistant. This process may take several days. Twice a day, I pull the item and it wipe down and put it back in. I put in a vise and it removed the old paint as well. The original paint came off easily with a wire wheel.

When emptying the water, it will be full of rust, etc. The rebar will need a quick wire brushing because rust is attracted to it.

Disclaimer: water and electricity. Make good choices and not hurt yourself or someone else.

Here is the chopper finished

Needed one of those gizmos hooked up to my truck about ten years ago.

Oneoldboot I am impressed on how well that turned out. I think I am going to give that a try.

Thanks for sharing your process

Thanks!

One consideration when buying a trapline axe is the abuse it may take. I discovered that I needed a tool that I wouldn't have to worry if I knicked the blade cutting too close to the ground or driving an occasional stake when I forgot my hammer. I know some of the axe purists are about ready to vomit hearing an axe poll striking a metal stake, but it is a rare reality. At the end of the day, an axe is a tool.

Many good USA made axes and hatchets can be found at flea markets and auctions for under $10. It hurts less when touching a rock at this price point than a $60 or $150 one. Another advantage is you can learn how to sharpen and rehandle on the yard sale axe. Generally, I only buy USA made axes that are stamped with the maker on it. I don't buy any from china, india, Mexico or have "warning labels" on them.

I carried a "3/4" (or boys) axe with a 2.5 lb head the first couple seasons, but then switched to a hatchet and it has worked well for me. I think the boys axe, which is ~28" is under appreciated.

I go to a lot of antique shops and I will start giving axes more attention as this thread has sparked my interest.

I want a new tdapline axe but I would also want some for collection purposes.

Thanks again for sharing

Small work bench. I made this "vise" to sharpen axes. It works well.

going through the stuff accumilated on the farm since the 1880's and have found bunches.will get a pic in a day or 2 up after i look at names.

Call me a purist but I cringe at the thought of an axe poll striking anything harder than a wood or plastic glut.

Here's one designed to hammer with that could find a place in my trapping kit.



https://www.hardcorehammers.com/product/super-naturalist/

That's a good one warrior...usually those rig axes aren't heavy enough to drive stakes through my soil, and I use a small single bit cruiser "boys ax" for beaver trapping.

Carpenter axes with that straight edge aren't really suited for chopping green standing wood. Better for shaping dry wood.