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Re: BMI 110’s
[Re: Acoody]
#6086792
12/15/17 09:02 AM
12/15/17 09:02 AM
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 375
AR
Acoody
OP
trapper
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OP
trapper
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 375
AR
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Re: BMI 110’s
[Re: Acoody]
#6087405
12/15/17 09:02 PM
12/15/17 09:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 375
AR
Acoody
OP
trapper
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OP
trapper
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 375
AR
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Re: BMI 110’s
[Re: Acoody]
#6088244
12/16/17 05:13 PM
12/16/17 05:13 PM
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 181
Ireland
Eddie43
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trapper
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 181
Ireland
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I straighten, and then bend into a circle trigger.
Dog will hunt!
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Re: BMI 110’s
[Re: Aix sponsa]
#6090266
12/18/17 03:11 AM
12/18/17 03:11 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,459
Montana
Taximan
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,459
Montana
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Taxi man,
Do you do anything with the pack rats?
Would you say the 55s and 110s work for barn rats/field rats too? I use them for bait for spotted skunks and bobcats.That one was caught in a set intended for spotted skunk.It is in a cave that pack rats have used probably for centuries,so it's inevitable that I get some.They are a favorite prey of bobcats too. I think the 55's and 110's would work good on barn rats.I also started playing with the Koro rodent traps last year.They would also be excellent.    The Snare Shop and WCS have them.WCS even has them in stainless.They hit hard and so far,perfect strikes.
Last edited by Taximan; 12/18/17 03:16 AM.
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Re: BMI 110’s
[Re: Taximan]
#6091188
12/18/17 09:47 PM
12/18/17 09:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 657
Central New York State
Zagman
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 657
Central New York State
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Taxi man,
Do you do anything with the pack rats?
Would you say the 55s and 110s work for barn rats/field rats too? I use them for bait for spotted skunks and bobcats.That one was caught in a set intended for spotted skunk.It is in a cave that pack rats have used probably for centuries,so it's inevitable that I get some.They are a favorite prey of bobcats too. I think the 55's and 110's would work good on barn rats.I also started playing with the Koro rodent traps last year.They would also be excellent. The Snare Shop and WCS have them.WCS even has them in stainless.They hit hard and so far,perfect strikes. Taximan Is that the rodent size that killed that skunk? If so, I assume you think it'd kill a mink just as easy? Are you baiting the trap/treadle OR setting bait PAST trap and letting animals hit trigger as they pass through? Thanks! Zagman Oh, BTW, how are you setting them for weasels regarding pan tension? I know you have to put the "dog" into the hole and can adjust how much distance the pan has to travel until the the "pops" out......I am mostly in shortail country, with the occasional LT.....thanks
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Re: BMI 110’s
[Re: Zagman]
#6190380
03/17/18 01:15 PM
03/17/18 01:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,459
Montana
Taximan
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,459
Montana
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Taximan
Is that the rodent size that killed that skunk? If so, I assume you think it'd kill a mink just as easy?
Are you baiting the trap/treadle OR setting bait PAST trap and letting animals hit trigger as they pass through?
Thanks!
Zagman
Oh, BTW, how are you setting them for weasels regarding pan tension? I know you have to put the "dog" into the hole and can adjust how much distance the pan has to travel until the the "pops" out......I am mostly in shortail country, with the occasional LT.....thanks
[/quote]
Zagman,sorry for the delay,getting back.Yes,the single spring rodent size.You can change the tension by bending the dog.Straighter,gives more tension.You can get it pretty light.That spotted skunk is decent sized for here,probably 1 1/2 lbs or so.I haven't got a mink in one but feel it will do the job.They are pretty strong traps and I get more consistent hits with them.That skunks head is close to the size of a mink's.
They have a bait spike on the back of the pan for bait but I bend it back out of the way and use a larger bait behind the trap.A bait on that spike seems too close and mice would take a small bait in a night.The mice here will strip half a muskrat carcass in a week.
I have a plan for that.in bought some mouse glue traps that are perfect sized for in the back of the box.I'm going to hang the bait in the rear with the glue trap under.This should give a choice of dead and live,noise making bait.
I use the pack rats for bait in the boxes or if I have a spare,for bobcat bait.
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Re: BMI 110’s
[Re: HayDay]
#6200025
03/26/18 12:21 PM
03/26/18 12:21 PM
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,296
Louisiana
Aix sponsa
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,296
Louisiana
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New forum member and first time poster. Thanks to Paul for allowing me in! Joined mostly to ask some questions about this thread. My interest is in predator control....and as pertains to this thread, weasels and maybe Norway rats.
Would like to ask a questions about a couple things. First is my adaption of a weasel box, using a 100 BMI instead of a Victor rat trap. Basically a mink box with back end blocked off and front end also capped with board with a 2" hole in it to filter what gets inside. (Don't want to be killing cats and such). Issue would seem to be getting a weasel or a rat to set off the trigger....if they can sneak past it. So the concept I came up with was to use a lightweight plywood block over the bell trigger on the BMI. Covers the entire opening, except for a hole in the center.....about 1 1/4" in diameter. Enough that if a weasel or even a rat tried to slip through it to get to bait in the back, they would fire the trigger. (Was going to post a photo of my setup, but file size is too large). Anybody have thoughts on this.....trap concept or dealing with large file size of photos.
Second question is about Koro traps. I note someone has gone to the effort to test the amount of weight it takes to get one to fire and it is around 4 to 5 ounces. I suspect some weasels and rats would not be heavy enough to get that to fire, so what about adjusting sensitivity by preloading pan with around 3 to 4 ounces of weight? Something like a small lead disk glued to the pan? Goal would be to make it a lot more sensitive. Trap seems to be a real hammer if you can get it to go off. Something slightly heavier than a mouse, but not much more so.
Thanks!
Rather than adding lead to your wires, try “starting” your triggers. That’s setting it then pushing the wires until they almost fire. That way, even the lightest bump will fire it. You can also hit the dog’s corner with just a couple swipes with a file to make it more sensitive. Be careful though, a little goes a long way, and if you go too far it won’t stay set and then you’ll have to do Note work
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