I didn't want to derail the other thread . I have been redoing my inlaws early 40's era cabin took it pretty much down to the skeleton. Got the outside done but going to work on the inside this summer. Going to put pine tongue and groove on all the walls it's a flat ceiling so I really don't want to do that the same if I don't have too.

I would like to rock the ceiling but am afraid of the joints cracking over the winter in the cold as it won't be heated ( this is in MN)
I beefed up the hand frame rafters , the cabin is 20 ft wide and the bottom of the rafters were two 10 footers tied together with a 4 ft piece of 2x4 it had sagged a little ( can't believe it wasn't worse) I got some nice straight 20 ft 2x6 and jacked up the rafters and sistered the 20 footers to them and put in a little more webbing so I think it should be pretty sturdy now.

I am thinking about putting rock on the ceiling and then covering the joints with some ripped down pine that I have for the walls so I would have basically a 4x4 batten grid on the ceiling if I am making sense.

Just looking for some ideas I really don't want to put ceiling tile in it and there really isn't enough height to do a drop down. I am open to suggestions.

Lots of wood ceiling plank options to choose from and put in crown molding between the walls and ceiling.

Drywall does not do well in unheated situations. That is my professional opinion. Now someone else can chime in and argue why I am wrong. Won't matter, I stand by what I said.

Hang drywall. Do not finish

Glue and screw mdf 4x8 sheets laying them out from the center of the ceiling

Screw only on the edges of mdf, prime and paint

Then install 6" battens over all the seams


The mdf creates a perfectly smooth ceiling

If you are painting it all, you could nail or staple 1/4"luan ply on the ceiling and grid it with the battens. I'd paint every thing with at least one coat before attacking it to the ceiling joists. It'd be much lighter than drywall.

I'd use an air stapler if I were doing it. You could fill the marks with filler or even drywall compound.

This. ^^^^^^^

Check drywall In garages

MDF is a great smooth surface, but it is heavy and dusty when cut, if that makes any difference to you.

Those battens are hickory to match the cabinets wainscoting and base/shoe

I have seen that done and they built them out of 2x6 then covered them with pine on three sides and a small moulding against the the pine on the rock. it looked like beams sticking thru the rock.

I'm assuming there isn't anything but open space between the rafters and the ceiling? If so, maybe you could add some support to the ceiling joists by dropping down some support from the rafters and essentially turn them into trusses.

I like your idea but I would try a tin ceiling. You can buy it in 1x1 or 2x2 squares, lite weight and most look antique. can be painted or stained or galvanized.

Michigan Trapping, that's the kind of look I had in my head that does look nice ,I hadn't planned on taping the drywall just doing a grid work over it like in your picture but obviously there would be some screw holes to finish over that would be exposed if I did just the rock and maybe that would be a problem? The mdf does look nice but with the weight of that and the drywall am I looking at trouble? These are hand framed rafters 2 foot on center instead of 16" like should have been done.

I had thought of a finished plywood in 1/2 inch and using the battens but sagging or warping might be a problem? And I would still have to cover the nail or staple holes. Was having trouble selling that option to the ladies.

The front half of the cabin is open floor to ceiling the back half has a wall dividing two bedrooms so that is sturdier back there. I did add more bracing in the rafters.

I had taken a look at some of the wood paneling ceilings and while they look nice the ones I looked at were quite spendy.

If it had a good vaulted ceiling I would just put the pine on the ceiling like the walls but thought it would look boxy with the flat ceiling. Also a white ceiling would be nice for lighting purposes.

I'm guess I am trying to get a light colored ceiling without the rock. I suppose putting the pine on the ceiling and painting it would be a option. Still think it might look a little busy. That and the tounge and groove adds up price wise. I also added a 12 x16 porch to it that is basically a living addition but that's new construction so no weight issues with that to worry about.

Thanks for the ideas guys and keep them coming I'm not set in stone on anything on how to do it just don't want to have to redo it.

Also it will be insulated, it gets used in the fall for hunting and occasionally fishing in the winter. One brother in law wants to have the walls sprayed, kicking that one around yet. Any opinions on ceiling insulation cellulose vs blown fiberglass.

The brother inlaws are plumbing and heating guys by trade so that's covered , my kids a flooring guy so that's covered going to hire out the wiring but it's not a big job so that won't be to bad.

If I had to pick one or the other I would rock walls and tg the ceiling

The walls are nicer to have paint as there are other things like furniture and picture that break up,the wall and compliments it

I also would never do pine, everyone and their brother has that. If you did rustic cherry or rustic walnut you would say it's worth the extra cost.

Rustic ash is cheaper than those and looks a whole lot better than pine