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One Checked off the Bucket List!! #6196530
03/23/18 04:09 AM
03/23/18 04:09 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,255
Homer, Alaska
Family Trapper Offline OP
trapper
Family Trapper  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,255
Homer, Alaska
Well for over 30 years I have flown in commercial airplanes and once in a private plane from Anchorage to Western Alaska. Always in the back of my mind was the desire to see the country first hand and make the trip by snowmachine. It never looks that far from 15000 feet!!!!!!!
One week before the Iditarod I chose to do just that. Drive my snowmobile from Willow Alaska to the Bearing Sea!!. 900 miles here we go!!

Was hoping to do the trip with my son Garrity but fishing work got in the way. I was very fortunate to be referred to a man from Homer that was accustom to backwoods living and travel. He turned out to be a good match for the trip. Thanks Mike. Will travel with you again!

It all started last spring when I decided to send out my skidoo SWT and WT for maintenance from St Marys. Not really computing how much that was going to cost to return them. cry
Turns out it would have been pretty expensive for those big hogs. Seems a good time to work on my bucket list.
Of course I am a bit of a procrastinator and a bit more work was involved in the maintenance end of things. Not to mention the building of three sleds.
Wish I had had more time to do the trip.
Our trip started at the Deska Landing near willow and close to the Susitna River. Rented a big trailer in Homer and hauled it all up. Full camp setup, two machines and three sleds.


The first night was probably the hardest to find and keep on the trail. There is so many marked trails from the Skwentna to Finger Lake I thought we would never get on the right trail. Lot of people use lath to mark their trails and you would be surprised where a marked groomed trail will lead you!! By 11 pm or so we found ourself in a nice spot and camped right on Finger lake. First use of my new cabelas 6 sided ice fishing shack. I had installed a stove jack I purhased from Alaska Tent and Tarp, some material mods and a tube of 3M 5200

I utilized one of the stove pipes that Kifaru sells for its 8 man tipi and really liked the height it gave me. I love my kifaru stove pipes. The 12 foot stove pipe rolls up in a tube about 18 inches long and 3 inch in diameter. Oh Ya.



a few shots of the trail leading up to the Rainy Pass area. Some of the most diverse and rugged part of the trip. Pretty amazing where they choose to put a trail. I wish I had taken some photos and video of these areas. Steep side hills with trails on them that I don't know how they do it each year.



Here is what seems to be the town of Rainy Pass. haha. Rainy Pass lodge. Quite the settlement of cabins and such. Nice people. We stopped in to get an update on conditions ahead. AND Ask where the heck do we go from here. laugh




Turns out ahead is where things can mix you up. At this point in the season there is an overlap of four Sanctioned races going on. Three of the four using the trail we did not want to use. And of course the only recently marked trail to be had!!

We wanted to follow The Iditarod trail way.

The Iron Dog, (snowmobile race) the Iditasport and another I am not sure what it was called both of which utilized bikes and walking as a means of transportation went the long way via the South Fork of the Kuskokwim River. About a 40 miles longer trail than the iditarod that goes through the Dalzell Gorge route.
Iron Dog route shown in Yellow.


We did not want to miss this route. The South Fork of the Kuskokwim River route had a lot of over flow. Apparently up to the knees of some of the walkers. Some of the bikers and walkers were turning back at this point and headed back to Willow. What a bummer that would have been after traveling that far and be forced to turn back.
Before we talked to the Rainy Pass crew we thought we might be either turning back or pitching in and building alternative routes to get to McGrath. Turns out all it took was the Iditarod Trial route through the Dalzell Gorge!! Oh MY!
The top of Rainy Pass. Pretty cool sign!


Well here goes my version of Lets Follow AK Howler on his trapline!!. Jr I thought of you so many times going down this route.

The start of it. Wish I had taken more photos. This is where it starts. And entering this narrow canyon at the start of the Dalzell Gorge was the first time I had that Yikes feeling!


About the 5th yikes feeling I had was when I saw this trail. There were a few more Yikes to come but this was the most dramatic and one of a few caught on film. haha. We decided to leave it in better shape than when we approached it. Son of Gun. Can you imagine being behind a dog team of 17 crazy tailed dogs headed downhill on ice here. I have a whole new respect for Iditarod mushers.
The second sled took a little detour over the edge. It wasn't loaded with much of anything but a cooler and some extra wood we were packing. Was a pretty easy retrieval. Oh a tip from Mike here. Don't pack Sardines in your cooler!!


We thought we would leave a little memento for the Iditraod mushers. An IPA Husky box!



Another one of those times you look at where your going and wonder what the heck are you doing here!!



Finally after a long second Day we reached the Rohn Cabin checkpoint. Was a nice bunch of guys there and they invited us to stay in a tent they had up and we shared dinner and breakfast. Was real treat.


The third day on the trail was the hardest single day on the trip. Leaving the Kuskokwim River and heading into the Fairwell Burn we found ourself up against a steep incline that we just had no way to get up without studded tracks. The first attempt left me 30 feet from the top and loosing ground fast!! OHHH Shucks!! Regroup!!
I had made just above where Mike is standing in the photo before I lost traction and headed backwards for quite a ways. Thinking time. I had a rope along but certainly did not want to pull it all the way to the top from my resting point. So I made a plan. We tied a rope to a stump just to the right of where Mike is standing. The idea was when I went by he would jump over the sled and dally off to a tree in hopes to stop me on the way by as I headed off backwards. Well dang it would have worked had the end of the stump not given away. Round two! Mike must have been a high jumper and calf roper in his younger years as he managed to do it all in a split second of me passing by and headed back down. Just in the nick of time I came to rest. Of course I had images of me being struck by the rope and snatched from machine over the windshield going through my head. But it worked.


Three inches at a pull from there on up with the rope along. His machine was a pretty easy pull from the top with my machine and some rope. On to the next hill.


We did get to another big hill that I made it up. But Mike did not fair so well. This was a good two hours of rope along to get him up to the reach of my rope. Dang I needed more rope!!


The Farewell Burn was full of fresh powder and rough going. We stayed in the Bear Creek cabin that night. Shared it with a Race hiker and biker. One from Spain and one from Italy.
The next day we were off to Nikolai. and on to McGrath where we spent the night in Local Inn. White we got there in the dark and I tried looking out for your house but could not remember where it was!! Couldn't find your number so we just hunkered down in the Inn and had a hot meal and shower. Our coldest night we spend in a warm Inn. 24 below.
We had a bit of an issue starting my machine the next morning and got a late start. One of the highlights of the trip was town of Takotna. Since it was mid day I made it a point of asking Where Takotna lived!!!!. After burying my sleds in getting to his house I walked in claiming I was looking for some used Bravo Parts. haha. We had a good laugh and view from Clintons Kitchen. Wow does he live in a nice spot. We were off to put some miles in. Clinton had told me about a local trapper that would know about the trail conditions between Takotna and Iditarod. As I was sitting waiting for Mike in Downtown Takotna a young man drives up to me and starts talking. Turns out it was the trapper that works the country between Ophir and Iditarod. He gave me some specifics on the trail and it all looked good. The heaviest snow conditions on the trail were between Takotna and the pass leaving Takotna. It was a road but it was pretty deep. We had to make a few attempts getting up one hill due to deep snow but the down hill side was super all the way to Ophir.

Once you get to the Farewell Burn there are Shelter cabins about every 20 to 30 miles apart. Two before you get to Nikolai. Then once you leave Ophir you have them again. This is the first one after leaving Ophir. The Tolstoi Shelter Cabin. Probably the worst stove out of all the cabins we viewed. Takotna You were right on when you warned us. I pitched my tent out front!!




We basically followed what looked like a trapper trail through black spruce for sooooo many miles Till we got to the Dishna River. Sprung Marten traps sets every few hundred yards.

Once you leave the Dishna you get to what I think they call the Beaver hills. Open country and some of the most scenic and fastest trail we had



This was probably the worst overflow we hit. 4 inches. We had to shovel a way through a drift on the far side.


This is the Iditrarod Check Point. The middle of now where. When I knocked on the door and entered I was greeted by a man that I see often in Homer at the Gear Shed. He was an iditrarod volunteer working on the cabins. We spent the night there in a warm cabin and had fun talking and learning some of the history. Iditarod Info



Here is what is left of the Brothel from the early 1900's. In its heyday there were as many as 10,000 people here making it the biggest city in Alaska. GOLD country.


Of course every good dog race needs its fuel for heating Dog food. Well here it is. I wish. Ran out of photos room in this post. Sitting on a slough in the middle of now where is a huge bundle of HEET. haha. Take a lot of logistics to put on a dog race to Nome!

One thing we did was to pack fuel in a 55 gallon drum. We had topped off in Skwentna and again in McGrath. We used fuel out of the Drum until we hit Shagluk.


The trail from Ophir to the Yukon is a leg of the Iditarod trail that had not been run in the last 5 years. So trail markers and trail conditions were a little sparce. A fair bit of time was spent looking and breaking trail from Iditarod to Shagluk. Did I say there was a lot of black spruce!!
A few minor set backs and we made it to the Yukon. From there I was in familiar territory and we made good time to St Marys. Traveling from Shagluk to St Marys in one day. Took a days rest and was off to the Bearing Sea. I would do again in a heartbeat.
The sleds came in Handy Too!!

Would have liked to share more photos from the trip in this post but I have reached my limit for one post
Combined photo to get a few more in. Fueling up on the Salmon River. And of course the reason I needed three sleds!!


Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196540
03/23/18 05:25 AM
03/23/18 05:25 AM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 3,263
NWT
Ryan McLeod Offline
trapper
Ryan McLeod  Offline
trapper

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 3,263
NWT
Thats awesome! Looks like one heck of a trip.


If you take care of the land the land will take care of you
Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196618
03/23/18 08:42 AM
03/23/18 08:42 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35,129
McGrath, AK
W
white17 Offline

"General (Mr.Sunshine) Washington"
white17  Offline

"General (Mr.Sunshine) Washington"
W

Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35,129
McGrath, AK
Jeeze Len !! You could have PM'd me or asked someone to get you here !! Bummer ! Nice trip !! Interesting country ! That cabin at Rohn has always been a nice place. Cool country there. If I remember correctly, that shelter cabin at Ophir was helicoptered from here a few sticks at a time.


Mean As Nails
Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196734
03/23/18 10:38 AM
03/23/18 10:38 AM

O
Oh Snap
Unregistered
Oh Snap
Unregistered
O



How are you going to top this item on your Bucket List, Len? What a great trip and thanks for sharing!

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196750
03/23/18 10:55 AM
03/23/18 10:55 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,330
Fairbanks, Alaska
Pete in Frbks Offline
trapper
Pete in Frbks  Offline
trapper

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,330
Fairbanks, Alaska
Neat adventure Len! Thanks for sharing.

Pete

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196756
03/23/18 11:04 AM
03/23/18 11:04 AM
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,421
Yukon
Y
yukon254 Offline
trapper
yukon254  Offline
trapper
Y

Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 4,421
Yukon
Thanks for sharing Len, a friend of mine did the same thing a few years back and loved it. He had run the Iditarod a few times so knew the trail well, just wanted to do it on snow machine.


do unto others as you would have them do unto you

www.grizzlycreeklodge.com
Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196836
03/23/18 12:35 PM
03/23/18 12:35 PM
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,686
Alaska
D
drasselt Offline
trapper
drasselt  Offline
trapper
D

Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,686
Alaska
Are those tracks not rated for studs?


you can vote your way into socialism, but you will have to shoot your way out.
Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196853
03/23/18 12:51 PM
03/23/18 12:51 PM
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 7,954
On Georgian Bay, Ontario Canad...
H
Hutchy Offline
trapper
Hutchy  Offline
trapper
H

Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 7,954
On Georgian Bay, Ontario Canad...
I am curious also. A budy of mine said that his swt cant be studded.

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6196878
03/23/18 01:07 PM
03/23/18 01:07 PM

O
Oh Snap
Unregistered
Oh Snap
Unregistered
O



I had the same SWT and studded the track. Carbide screws will clear the cooler if you put them in the last stud location next to the tunnel Makes a huge difference.

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6197122
03/23/18 05:43 PM
03/23/18 05:43 PM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 446
Southeast, AK
R
rosscoak Offline
trapper
rosscoak  Offline
trapper
R

Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 446
Southeast, AK
Epic trip , Len!
Way to live the dream!

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6197204
03/23/18 07:48 PM
03/23/18 07:48 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,255
Homer, Alaska
Family Trapper Offline OP
trapper
Family Trapper  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,255
Homer, Alaska
Snap I see the track has premolded round places with holes that look like you could screw in studs. I hope to do so.

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6197713
03/24/18 10:13 AM
03/24/18 10:13 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,017
Alberta
B
Bushman Offline
trapper
Bushman  Offline
trapper
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,017
Alberta
Len you never do anything half a$$ That looks like an epic trip. And I know from experience how hard it is to pull two sleds in tandem. Love the shot of moose sheds, nice and brown. Thanks for posting.

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6197861
03/24/18 12:31 PM
03/24/18 12:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,350
Interior Alaska
smalltimetrapper Offline
small greenhorn
smalltimetrapper  Offline
small greenhorn

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,350
Interior Alaska
Nice trip, looks like fun! That pile of bone should make it worthwhile.

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6197868
03/24/18 12:35 PM
03/24/18 12:35 PM
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 490
Fairbanks AK
Aknative Offline
trapper
Aknative  Offline
trapper

Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 490
Fairbanks AK
Thanks for sharing Len!


Rumors of my assimilation have been greatly exaggerated.
Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6198520
03/24/18 09:57 PM
03/24/18 09:57 PM
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 605
Central PA, God's Country
PAlltheway Offline
trapper
PAlltheway  Offline
trapper

Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 605
Central PA, God's Country
Fantastic post

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: PAlltheway] #6199069
03/25/18 12:29 PM
03/25/18 12:29 PM
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 77
VT
B
Blkpwda Offline
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Blkpwda  Offline
trapper
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 77
VT
What a great trip! Thanks for sharing your adventure!

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6199464
03/25/18 08:20 PM
03/25/18 08:20 PM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 888
McGrath, Alaska
O
Ol' Blister Offline
trapper
Ol' Blister  Offline
trapper
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 888
McGrath, Alaska
Thanks Len. What a great story and pictures. Did the moose antlers pay for the gas ? ;o)) Helped anyway, huh?

I wish we could have seen you and Mike when you were resting here. Next time, huh? ;o)

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6199488
03/25/18 08:41 PM
03/25/18 08:41 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,350
Interior Alaska
smalltimetrapper Offline
small greenhorn
smalltimetrapper  Offline
small greenhorn

Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,350
Interior Alaska
Wow, did white finally let you out of the cage? Haven't seen his better half on here for a while!

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6199576
03/25/18 10:00 PM
03/25/18 10:00 PM
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,046
Homer, Alaska
S
Spek Jones Offline
"FATHER"
Spek Jones  Offline
"FATHER"
S

Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,046
Homer, Alaska
Congrats Len, great job on an awesome trip!

Re: One Checked off the Bucket List!! [Re: Family Trapper] #6199579
03/25/18 10:05 PM
03/25/18 10:05 PM
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,271
james bay frontierOnt.
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Boco Offline
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Boco  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,271
james bay frontierOnt.
900 miles by snowmachine,that is some ride for sure.


Forget that fear of gravity-get a little savagery in your life.
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