You obviously aren't talking about trapping numbers of beaver. You must be talking the occasional ADC job right out of the truck. I can think of many reasons to drown beaver. For one thing, 18' of chain weighs a LOT. You aren't going to carry many traps with 18' of chain. Plus it takes extra time to dispatch live beaver. Drowned beaver are out of sight and cooled down for skinning. Drowned beaver are far less likely to get bit up by another beaver. Drowning sets don't need to be checked every morning. And sooner or later you're going to have a twist off long chaining with large traps. I've had a few really close calls myself, and with no entanglement. It takes less than 6 minutes to drown a beaver if it can't get air. Hold a beaver for 6 minutes and he's done. Long chaining, you may need to hold a beaver for 12 hours or more. Drowning just makes more sense.

18 FEET? Must be a typo.

I'll use half that sometimes with a weight wired to the trap...Drowned beaver (and no...you don't need 30 lbs like some think). But yes, that weight sure adds up quick.

And a lot of areas around here where a beaver up on the bank with a #5 on its leg will get you a LOT more attention than you want (and fired from an ADC job)

I won't even use magnum jawed #330s for that reason if doing ADC work anywhere near residential.

Down and out is the way to go. Blub, blub, blub.

18' isn't that heavy. Unless your using tie down chains. #2 isn't heavy. 4-6 in a pack basket or sled isn't a hard pack. LT is bigger than I am so...

Anyone figure he's not going out setting like everyone else ? Not everyone goes out with all the traps their gonna use that season and try to set them out that day. Sound more like he's using a progressive line tactic.

And on the subject if you've never seen Dale billingsley's beaver video I highly suggest you do !

10 feet of chain staked deep. And 4 or 5 lbs of weight attached to the chain close to the trap. That will tire out any beaver In a short time.
no matter what anyone tells you I don't want a live beaver on the bank period.

Bears and wolves are the problem here. Down and out is best .

X2

I've seen Dales video. I like it...and has its application but trap enough beaver with long chains and you will learn what they can, and will, find under the water to hang up on. Even on a sand beach at times.

Weighted like beav does and usually not an issue (other than retrieval) but no weight and you will experience more wring offs if front foot caught. And no matter what you do, you will get a front foot once and awhile.

I don't want them up on land alive either....but to each his own.

Anyone notice how far this has moved from the the subject? So I’ll add my zero cents worth. When I moved up here there was a minister who trapped a lot of beavers wearing nothing more than knee boots and no body grippers. He tied railroad plates wired close to the trap.

What did he call that-the hail Mary set?

No! It was his way of “servicing “ the beaver “house” of worship. Ok I need to get a life. Gonna go cut,split more hickoryand locust.

I am very interested in how to strengthen the old springs, I have several older ones with weak springs and a few that broke in half.

The best way I've found to strengthen the springs is to put 1 1/2 springs inside the #5. They can be either new or old. They fit perfectly. I tack welded them, just don't get them too hot. Works great.

That's the best way.

You can also cut pipe segments and force them Into the spring end and tack them In place.

Thanks for the tips goldy and beav

Ttt

I have some brigder #5 dls also. Fixing to order paws- I - trip pan system for them. I also use #5 coil too. Both are very good traps.

I have several #5 bridgers Dls and a couple dukes if i were to buy more I would buy dukes . They come center swiveled ,a pit style pan and are stronger