I run all wolffang chain stakes but I'm contemplating switching over to all 7x7 1/8 stainless steel cable wolffang stakes except for my dog proofs and pocket sets for as long as they last.

Reasons are, they are easier to drive into ground,the cable that I use for my drowning rigs and stakes would be the same,no welding, lighter, stronger, cheaper and easier to make.

And I know galvanized is cheaper but i more interested in corrosion resistance than a few dollars.

What are your opinions, thanks

I’d have to recommend at least considering 7x19. In my experience and opinion, 7x19 makes better stakes, drowners, and extensions than 7x7. It has quite a bit more flexibility. This means it doesn’t “stand at attention” as much when a little bit sticks out of the hole (used as a stake), and it doesn’t kink as easily when used as extensions and drowners. I really like SS 1/8” 7x19. The 1/8” copper sleeves are usually pricey though, so shop around for those, but they’re worth it. I made up some using annealed nuts when I ran out of sleeves, and I ended up cutting most of those off when I ordered more sleeves. I couldn’t stand the cable strands tearing up my hands.


For cable stakes I sure like taximan’s setup. Hopefully he’ll post a picture, even though it’s kind of what you’re trying to get away from. He uses a combination of SS cable and a few chain links.

What's the benefits of copper over aluminum?

galvanic corrosion. BUT- I made a bunch of stakes with SS cable and aluminum ferrules and haven't had any problems with them. This season will be some of thems 4th year. I think if you are on the coast where there is a lot of salt water, it would definitely make a difference though.

Here are mine.They have held up great.Copper is the proper ferrule for stainless.It is stronger than aluminum too,though aluminum is strong enough-on galvanized.These are 7x7,1/8" cable.I like 6" of chain on top,so there is no cable sticking out and no chance for cable to get chewed.This gives me the versatility of using them at any depth between 12"-18".

Those sharp cable ends can be easily removed with a bench grinder.

A cutoff wheel in a Dremel also works very well.

So we're is the best/cheapest place to get the copper double ferrules and what size are those thimbles?

I think I got most of mine from the Snare Shop (copper).The thimbles were called 1/8" and got them off the bay.

Tha

Thanks,



What's your thoughts on 7x7 or 7x19?

I use 7x7 because it has enough texture(vs 1x19) to hold ferrules well and is cheaper than 7x19.I can't see an advantage to the extra flex of the 7x19 but I don't see any disadvantages either.If you want to use the thimbles,I believe the 7x19 would be much easier to handle,when constructing.

Nice set up.
But I still don't see the advantage that copper has over aluminum. In my opinion aluminum would chinch up tighter. And If you don't have a swaging tool It's going to be hard to get those copper sleeves as tight as they should be. But with a hammer you can close up those aluminum ferrules pretty easy.
And I'm not about to go out and buy a $200.00 swaging tool.

Aluminum and copper fight, and comprimises the connection. Copper is soft enough to hammer mash if you want to. A drill and a a 5 doller yard sale bolt cutter will do it as well

Beav, you can get a bench swaging tool with cutter for $84.95 shipped

Yeah I plan on using one thimble per setup. On the wolffang because of the square edge may crimp/cut the cable with repeated use but the other end I don't think needs one because it will go around chain like yours or attached to a j-hook and both are round and smooth. Just my thoughts.

And on the 7x19 I didn't know for my drowning rigs if it would help them from getting kinked after multiple catches.

Do what ever trips your trigger but aluminum works to perfection for me. And I have a 2 Lb hammer In the drawer. So far I haven't had one fail yet. But the copper does look nice. LOL

No,copper is stronger than aluminum though that's not the point.Aluminum and stainless,together will corrode,due to electrolysis.They aren't compatible.Cable companies,marine gear companies and even cable railing manufacturers warn against it.Where stainless cable runs through aluminum railing posts,they use rubber grommets to keep the stainlees from contacting the aluminum.


It takes the same amount of labor to do it right as it does to do it wrong.

I see your point. But since I don't use stainless I see no reason to use copper right.

So Is your ground so toxic you need to use stainless cable? I can see using It In brackish ground or In salt water situations. But around here and I'm betting In most places It's not needed.

In my case I have my disposables made for me (free) and they are truly disposable. So the need for a stainless cable would be a mote point. Even If you retrieved them would being In the ground for 2 months have an effect on regular cable?

I know I once boiled my cable stakes along with the traps In sani flush and that ate up that cable In about 2 weeks. Went to pull a few and ended up on my butt when the cable parted. Never did that again.

Just playing the devils advocate here. Just looking at all sides of this post.

The other thing I do Is add a couple of links to my stock chain so I can get another swivel point. Then I add a J hook and one more single link. This makes my trap chain about 16" long. This last link Is where I attach my quick link to my disposable cable. I can then drive the quick link out of sight along with the cable.
I figured this way If I couldn't pull my cable I wasn't leaving a bunch of chain behind. Of coarse If your carrying a cable cutter It's not a issue. But It Is something to think about.

Yes the ground is very alkaline here and galvanized cable corrodes very quickly,often within a month or two.I wouldn't pay extra for SS if I didn't need to.I use permanent anchors on bobcat sets as I often use the same location year after year so SS eases my mind.The open areas where a lot of coyote sets are,is more caustic and sometimes they stay in the ground,3-6 months and that will cause a good bit of corrosion,using galvanized.So far,I haven't got a speck of corrosion yet on any of the stainless or copper.I've used both 304 and 316 stainless and both have worked perfectly.304 is cheaper and less corrosion resistant but I believe it's fine for our purposes,meaning non-salt water environments.

I go over my anchors before the next season and check for any flaws and clean up driver slots etc.To be quite honest,I'm rethinking the use of anchors that need to be pulled.They are harder to pull than stakes,can't be used when our ground gets frozen solid,or pulled till it thaws and now that I can predrill for stakes,the scale is tipping in their favor.

And no,you don't want copper on galvanized and if corrosion isn't an issue,you probably don't need stainless cable.