So I just bought a pse coyote recurve it's 60 inches with 55lbs draw weight has anyone on here had one and if so what arrow rest did you run on it. There were a bunch of them at bass pro on the clearance racks new in the boxes for $180 so I bought one.
Thanks


Jon C.

Only saw the bow in pictures after I googled it. It seems like you could use any shoot through rest no problem.

Cool I love the size of it and the weight its really light and nimble I can't wait to sling some sticks with it.

What about string dampers anyone have any suggestions??

I assume you are talking about string silencers? Unless you are planning on hunting with it I wouldn't bother. Get a decent rest, a nice micro adjust target sight, the correct arrows and have some fun.

Oh I'm gonna hunt with it of course after alot of practice and once i get some confidants with it and bowfish hopefully and fun shoot with it. But yes string silencers are what I'm talking about

Beaver fur strips of course!...You will give up a little performance in arrow fps vs. synthetics, but they really quiet a bowstring down...Plus, since you probably like the traditional angle, and furs and such, it's a natural choice.

Ok awsome. The only recurve I have ever had and was good with was a red fiberglass bear that I had when I was 4 so this is all new to me. I have a matthews black max 2 and it's a wicked bow. I'm really excited to start shooting this recurve. I'm assuming alumnium arrows with feathers since I'm gonna be hunting to get more energy since I won't have the speed of a compound bow.

Your going to love traditional...Aluminum or carbon arrows are fine.

I like barrel tapered port orford cedar with 5 1/2 inch shield cut medium helical feathers, but to each their own...You will develop preferences.

If you are planning on hunting with it, I would go with the natural silencers as already suggested. I would also probably go with a drop away rest. I would use the heaviest aluminum arrow for that weight that shoots well with 100gr tips and probably 3" feathers, fletched straight without a helical twist. All of this is just a thought since there are unknown factors but you get the drift. 55 ft/lbs is somewhat light for say a deer although with good shot placement it is plenty.

10-4. I've got some 100gr 3 blade broad heads or should I go with something like a carbon express nativ or a magnus stinger 2.

Finster, love ya to death, but you're so off base here in so many ways.

All I shoot are recurves and longbows.

First, do not get a drop away rest. If you want to shoot off the shelf , get rests for that . Plenty available . If you want to shoot an elevated rest ( and vanes ) , get a simple stick on flipper type rest . You didn't give your draw length , but look at 2018's for aluminum.

55 is plenty for any deer in North America. Most big game actually.

Honestly I don't remember my draw length it was measured last year I was 14 and I was shorter than my dad who is 6foot. And now I'm 15 and taller than he is and now I'm 6foot 2in.

I agree,Aaron.

Gonna need to know as that determines your actual draw weight .

I will get it measured when I get my arrows. Should I get finger savers for the string or will that mess anything up.

Totally agree with you Aaron. All I shoot is recurves and longbows as well. My preference is to shoot off the shelf and use natural turkey feather fletching. 55 lbs is plenty of poundage for anything that you will hunt on this continent. I would stick with a fixed 2 blade broadhead that you can get scalpel sharp. You have to remember, this is not a compound, so forget everything that is associated with them. It will require different form and lots of practice to ensure that you repeat the correct form. Also, your draw length is most likely going to be different than what it would be with a compound. If you want a cheap way to silence it, take yarn and wrap it on your string up around where your string groove is. I have about a 5-6" section wrapped up on each end. If you are really serious about hunting with a recurve or longbow, visit the tradgang forum. It is a wealth of information and full of guys willing to help you shorten the learning curve.

Ok I will. To clarify when y'all say off the shelf do y'all mean no rest??

Not to argue but just to give my opinion, that bow, if you look at the riser is not made to be shot traditional. It is set up to be outfitted like a compound. A flipper will not work on that bow. The riser is also not designed to shoot off the shelf. Again, it is designed for a shoot through rest. Have you seen the riser? This isn't some traditional bow, it is a take down recurve with a modern riser.

I like off the shelf and go super simple, but if you want to do vanes a simple stick on. Like any bow you'll have to tune it to you. Just get a tab for your fingers or a glove. Certainly try some weight up front, don't be going with the 100 grain points like wheels use. Start at 150 175 200.

Have fun, don't get discouraged when you don't magically hit the target where your looking! Heck I'd say started with your eyes closed and just try and draw and feel the shot, forms everything with trad.

I do best when I hold for a second, reconfirmed my spot and then let the shot go, maybe your different? But I usually thing a phrase in my head before I shoot makes me hold and think my shot through.

It's addictive man,

J

Thanks for the help yall. Im sure it is addictive everey thing ive ever tried has been sadly lol (more fun less money). I saw a forum post where a dude put a wisker biscut on one and he said it worked good. I have one I will probably try it just for giggles and a fliper rest and with no rest.

Jon
If I were you, I'd email PSE and see what they suggest for rests, arrows, silencers, etc.
They surely have a technical team that help folks set up their bows.
take care
ole John

Thanks man I didn't even think to do that. I will see what they can tell me if anything tomorrow

It'll work on that bow. Just as well as they work on some of the Hoyts and ILFs I've seen built.

Finster,I see what you mean after looking at pictures of that riser.That looks like that portion of the sight window is machined quite a bit past center.You wouldn't want to stick an elevated rest directly on that indent.You could never tune it.

It didn't appear cut that far past center to me . But if so, easy fix with a NAP Center Rest .

Jon, don't get the string thingys you put on to draw. Just get a glove or tab.

https://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2408849
Might be of some help???

Ok i will probably buy a NAP center rest and try one of them too

I put those SVL limb dampeners on my recurve. Self adhesive. They work great.
Mine is 58# @ my draw.

Ok I'll look into them

I'm 6'2" as well. My draw is 29" though yours may vary slightly.

I've got ape arms so I think it might be longer but I could be wrong

I'm 6'1". My draw is 30" and I only draw to the center of my face down the center of my nose. That's something you have to get measured. Most everyone is different.

Ok I'm gonna go look for some arrows purty soon and get my draw measured.

Thanks bud!

My draw length is 30 inches didn't even have to get my arrows cut!!!

The wingspan measurement used to be used some but it doesn't always give your true draw length.The best way is to draw a long arrow and have someone experienced with recurves,mark the arrow.As you gain experience and your form gets better,your draw length might increase.

That's what we did they had a draw length measuring bow and we used it at bass pro.