Now I see what your do'n

He is tethering the tag end with something that pulls it tight then breaks away

Its a neat concept. I wouldn't mind seeing it in person.

7x7 is bad about cutting. It's like a saw on live animals.

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Keep in mid that it is a live catch system; there is nothing to cause animal fighting to further tighten the loop. If an animal wraps up in brush and is suspended with his feet off the ground he may expire, but not from additional loop closing.

A weakened break point in the loop cable would be cool and would result in a shorter trailing tag end. But it would need to slide smoothly through the lock and
hold its stiffness. I have tried to make by hand such break point but have not been successful. Cable manufacturers probably could make the break point but I doubt they would be interested. It might appear all but center strand could be cut, then wrap the joint with thin tape. A camlock that will hold when pulled in an opening direction does not have enough space for the tape or for uneven cut cable ends.

Very ingenious idea, Furvor! I'm just wondering about the the safety cable being so taut (as in the picture) that it might interfere with the lock closing quick enough. In other words, instead you would leave just enough slack in the safety cable to not interfere with the lock's initial closing but not so much that the loop would completely close around the neck before breaking away.

From the photo, I'm not seeing how the safety cable "will fall freely with its weight as a positive influence on loop closure." It looks like it might have the opposite effect of interfering with the lock closing fast enough. Or have I misunderstood how this works?

There is slack. Safety cable must have a bit of extra length. Safety cable falls when the loop falls because the rig is hung via whammy on loop cable. It is fairly stiff, so if it is left to extend horizontally at lock level a hinge joint (such as twin loops or another swivel) is needed. I used 5/64 1x19 cable because that is what I had. 7/64th or 1/8th 1x19 would be more durable.

My grandfather was not that old. Even so, he said when he was young a man would work sun up to sun down for (a quarter or dollar, I forget) a day. He also said that at that time one dollar would buy more groceries than one man could carry. currency depreciation which we call inflation.

Thanks for the clarification. It's a cool setup...


Yep, and ten dollars a pound for pretty much anything back then was a lot of money.

To anyone who makes one of these rigs, please post your opinion as to its pros and cons and mention any design variations you may have made.

Just built one. Uploading video to YouTube

Thanks AirportTrapper. I see that you used a slim lock. That's OK for experimenting. A snared animal will be pulling from inside the loop against a different cable. That means force against the lock will be in the direction to open the loop rather than to close it (as with a normal snare). Some years back I tested locks on bare open ended cable to see if they would hold my weight. I found none that did, so I made my own. I just made the camlock hat wider, put a slot in the middle of it, and positioned the cam so it would push cable slightly into the slot. Those locks worked but were prone to catching water and freezing. Since then some camlocks have been improved enough that slotted locks are no longer needed. My current preference is Bridger Sure-Hold camlocks from MTP. I suspect some DakotaLine locks and maybe others would also hold in what I call a reverse pull application. I may not have tested slim locks

After you play for awhile with your creation please let us know what you think about it.

All I had left for small cable. I am not a fan of the slims in any size. I love the 3/32 BMI minilock on 1/16 . No entanglement or kill spring and from nutria to coyote still DOA

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Furvor are the S hooks at your swivel rated BADs?

My initial thoughts, I wish I could look back at the thread that was here a year or three ago and see what was said then that might still relate, but..

OK, first, I never want a live coon in a trap period. Cages for ADC only.

I only want live snared canines for the live market, so fur damage isn't a large concern but I can see that entanglement of a live animal and the resulting struggle could cause damage; it's a consideration.

Non-entanglement is a key element in most CR regulations, my belief is that when entanglement is allowed (if ever) lethal snaring will be too.

Do most CR states allow camlocks?

Have these found acceptance in western snaring circles? or are they generally non-lethal in your actual use of them?

Having owned a few dogs that wouldn't stay tied, my thoughts are that the loop will be loose enough that pulling from the inside will allow the collar to slip over the ears whereas pulling from the end will cause continued tightening until the animal quits pulling, resulting in a tighter fitting loop.

Cam locks are rated as kill locks here, doesn't matter how they are setup. I do agree that the swivel should be as close to the cabled animal as possible or the swivel is a mute point.

Anything new would require state approval before it could be used in CR states. In the above setup an animal cannot pull the loop chokingly tight, but a deer stop could be used to release a deer leg. If that setup finds use in states where legal some CR states may adopt it.

In a reverse-pull setup there is nothing to re-tighten the loop after a relaxing lock backs off. Such lock would prolly slip off the end of bare cable if the animal did not get out of the loop before that happened.

Most states with CR laws. state that you must use 3/32' or 1/8" cable.

I won't mess with them anymore, with Michigans stupid laws you're pretty much aloud to set them in the middle of a field and hope

Ttt