I am currently in the process of sectioning off an 8 x 12 area of my garage for a fur handling area. I plan on keeping it heated fairly constantly. Everywhere Ive been reading about vapor barriers says for it to be toward the warm side. This is a bit confusing because Im essentially adding a room to the garage. I hoped someone could give me some insight on how to do this properly.

is the rest of the garage heated?
don't think it will really matter tho, i would just put the vapor barrier on the fur room side.

separate room inside the garage, I wouldn't put it in

I would only use a vapor barrier on out side walls between the insulation and the sheetrock. Probably already in place there. Are you adding a room on to the garage or partitioning it?

I am just partitioning, and the rest of the garage is not heated or insulated.

ok put the paper to the fur room side, you wont have much wettnes to deal with anyhow

I'm currently doing the same thing in my pole building. From my reading vapor barrier use in construction seems all over the place and very confusing. So many views and opinions. I'm using kraft faced batts with the paper side facing in toward the shop area, no plastic sheets.

Kyron4, vapor barrier goes on the inside (the heated side) as you described. It prevents moisture from penetrating into the insulation where it can condense or even freeze.

you put your vapor barrier under the wallboard

the reason being is if you have a humid warm environment and a freezing outside your moisture wants to draw out to the less moist frozen air , but as it passes thru your insulation it condenses and freezes , frozen insulation doesn't insulate.

^^That frozen water can cause all sorts of damage, rotted out wall in 2 1/2 years and outside of wall bulged out from studs in first winter are two of the worst examples I had to fix. And the leaking wall that had no leaks except on warm days in winter, it had ice almost 4' high and ~3' thick against the exterior sheathing.

Do not vapor barrier the celling IMO.

Yup, here I've torn into many walls with blown in insulation and tar paper under the siding to find ice. You NEED a vapor barrier on the warm side and a breathable barrier on the other side.

Definitely, do NOT put a vapor barrier in the ceiling.

Isn't the kraft paper on insulation batts and rolls a vapor barrier ? A construction buddy told me raw insulation (no paper backing ) use a plastic barrier; paper back insulation, no plastic barrier. He said it varies across the county based on climate.

Kraft back fiberglass batting is technicly a thin form of tar paper. 6 mil plastic the walls but not the lid unless you want a mold line at the ceiling. Imho fiberglass needs the plastic as a air barrier, more than a vapor barrier! But technically the air infiltration is what is causing the moisture to begin with.

Thank you everyone for the great info. There is a lot of different information all over the internet on the subject. My plan it loose bats in the ceiling, and faced bats on the wall for ease of install and then a plastic barrier inside that.