So i was told that adding bow string wax to the pan, and the block on the jaw lowers pan tension. I did this and tension is just around 4.5-5#. I would prefer around 3#. Any suggestions on how to get close to that?

I had the same problem. The wax helped, but not enough, and the wax was hard to apply in freezing temps. I took off the extra springs on mine this year (made them 2 coiled instead of 4) and it helps TREMENDOUSLY. I will probably still try the wax, but I don't think it will be very necessary. If yours are 4 coiled, try taking the extra springs off one.

Filing the notch that catches the jaw will help. Make it so it has a little angle to it at first and test as you take away material

Mine are 2 coiled. I will try some filing to see if that will help

I took the two extra springs off and squared the back edge of pan then put a VERY slight angle on it. Maybe 7 to 8 degrees. After waxing the traps I'm getting a consistent 2 to 2.5 break on pan. I figure I can always add the springs back on after a yr or so of use. Traps are still plenty quick and now I wont miss any of these texas foxes.

Yeah, bow sting wax and filing the catch to have a slant to it will help. I know a guy around here that filed the catch on the pan down to 1/16" on his extremes to make them faster. Not sure if that will help with pan tension, but might be worth trying.

when you say waxed, are you talking waxed with bowstring wax, or entire trap dipped in wax?

Regular lk ar waxing of the entire trap. Just like I do for regular uncoated traps.

Maybe we can get Kendall to pitch in here. I picked up a couple dozen juniors and am not happy at all with pan tension issue.
I have cleaned up the pan and jaw connection with a file and a Dremel wire brush. I have also waxed and still they are barely below 5#. Unsatisfactory. Need three pounds and don’t see an easy way to get there.
Advice please

I sent him an email. I saw the video where he used the bowstring wax and his fired right at around 2#. Not sure what im doing wrong. I will share any extra info he gives me through email.

Any trap in existence can be adjusted down to 1# pan tension like that. You just need to work on the angles. Keep working at it.

And get a Sullivans pan tension scale.

I have 3 dozen now and love them. If you don't shorten the dog and file to smooth you will have a hard time getting close to 3lb even with wax.

After I shortened the pan notch and adjusted the angle and pollished the contact points with a steel brush, I can get from 2 pounds up without wax..4 coiled When filing the angle on the pan notch do a little at a time. You can't put it back...

Thanks Yukonal

Can one of you guys please give me an idea of how much you’re taking off and your angles? 3-4 with wax is what I want. I want to pick up the odd fox but miss the jackrabbits, which isn’t always easy.

I just ran a floppy pan and waxed and had 3 to 3 1/2 pounds 4 coiled. 2 to 2 2 1/2 when 2 coiled. I didn't file anything and scraped the excess wax off after they had cooled.

Then I’m not filing anything until I wax them. Out of the box, mine bottom out the Sullivan tester without firing, but I’ve had other untreated traps do the same.

any guesses how much you shortened the pan notch?

There are no quick fixes here. Put the traps on the workbench, lay your files and Sullivan down beside, and a Sharpie.

Start taking off material a little at a time. When you get to about 3-1/2#, mark the area you are filing with the sharpie so you can tell how much more you take off...as you fine tune.

3 swipes with the file, and check with the Sullivan. When you get down to 3#, work on slightly changing the angle of the contact area. 2 swipes with the file, and check again. Go easy when you are filing an angle into the contact area.

If you take too much off, and it gets too light...square everything back up with the file, and start over.

I have spent 45 minutes on ONE trap getting it perfect. When you think you are there, set and re-check 3 times.

I set my pan tension at 2 to 2-1/4# with NO creep, or travel. It takes time and patience. There are no quick fixes when getting a perfect pan tension. And they are all a little different. For example...on my Bridger dogless pans, I file off 75-80% of the dog that engages the jaw. On Monty and Sudden Valley, 1 heavy swipe of the file will change pan tension 1/2 to 3/4#...after you get close.

You just gotta get after it.

youkonal, good advice on doing a little bit at a time.

But another important aspect that I have not seen mentioned that might help someone.....where exactly are you placing the tester on the pan? Since the pan is basically a lever, the distance from the pivot point to where the pressure is applied will make a difference in the amount of pressure needed to get it to fire.

So rather than assume (and we all know what that can cause) you are centering the tester on the pan, I thought I would ask.

Also, how do you orient the pan on the dogless trap to the attractant? Dog on traps, I usually have the dog somewhere between 9 and 3 to the attractant. But on the dogless traps, I am considering bedding the trap with the loose jaw toward the attractant.

And with the bigger pans on the K9 Extremes and Jrs, I am considering going to the screen over the pan. Take a lot of material under the pan to keep dirt out. The square screen fits great under the jaws and the head of the bolts that hold the jaws and lays nice and flat.

I shorten the pan notch to 1/16th then test and then file the angle as needed. As QBD stated always check tension dead center. For fox I set the loose jaw in for yotes loose jaw out. The screen does work well but with that big pan I use polly, doesn't take that much and less to jack with. Also coon just love digging screen up. I go to screen after the coon are dormant.