in a subdivision on the edge of town, there are a couple of raccoons climbing a plum tree, running around on the roof and crapping in a corner of the yard. I've had three live traps set in the vicinity baited with large marshmallows, coon candy lure and some Trix cereal scattered in and near the traps. Two nights now and they are still running around on the lady's roof. They have an endless food supply with the plums. Any suggestions on getting them into the cages?

use some plums, crushed a bit so the odor travels well, smear/drag crushed plum-making a scent trail to the MOTHER LODE in the cage, suspend the LODE in a cup, so their attn is up there, set them near the plum trees and a couple more cages near the tree they are climbing on the roof with. You can also put 1 or 2 on the roof BUT MAKE SURE to put plywood under them sticking at least 3" out from the cage.
If they are going in her attic, use a bucket/220 set up there. Use a burlap sack with newspaper lining to carry the critter thru the house.

..ps, I used to live in Payette, what county you in?

Raccoon was coming out during daylight hours bothering the workers in the building. The guy they hired had the set location looking like a grain farm with "trailing" sets but no luck. After a lengthy walk through I rolled the dice and pulled a dr dolittle and told the foreman it was entering the hall through this room. Placed a cage off the corner of the locker, a lure stick with a generous glob of lure on it suspended in the rear of the cage. No covered cage or cage flooring. Kept it simple. The following morning he was waiting. Sometimes less is best and 86 all the clever set ups. Strange that your commercial lure isn't attracting them. Hmmm

I'm in Blaine County. Move, not kill attitude around here and I can't risk a non target lethal catch. I added some Dam a Dam beaver/racoon lure to a cage tonight and will see what happens. I might have to do the roof thing if all else fails and put the cages on plywood. 3:4 roof pitch so it should be easy.

Put some molassis and sardines in the cage. I'd be shocked if they resist. It doesn't take much molassis. In another trap, put grape jelly and a tiny bit of annis oil, perhaps with a little bit of corn and sunflower seeds.

wet catfood.

Not your bait most likely. You need to present the trap to them in the right location the right way. I had a coon walking right past my trap 5 feet away last week. for a few nights I moved the trap 5 feet placed the opening towards the direction the coon was coming and it went right in using the same bait and lure. I have been giving cage trap training for 20 years and this one fact is true put the trap right on the coon make it easy to go in the trap and snack or trail the coon into the trap. Good baits and lures are a must for coon BUT it is 90% trapper knowing what to do and 10% baits and lures that get it done. To find out if the coon are trap shy or trap smart, place a marshmallow out front of the trap about a foot and one right on the lip, another one right in front of the pan. if only the one out front is moved or gone then you may have a shy coon if they are gone up to the pan and the ones behind are Left then smart, if nothing is moved or touched your location is off.

I don't see any reason why you cant intercept them on their way up to their entry point. I have to close up a roof tomorrow, shingle and sheathing that this coon tore through. Could easily have set traps on the roof but when you have sign on the ground unless you're running a positive set on the opening, ground trapping is where it's at. I've trapped them on the roof as well but no need for heavy lifting when you have "sign" right in front of you..jmo I personally would start over clean up any scrap bait if any and pin point their route. In your face trapping is key with raccoons who you think are avoiding you. This homeowner called me yesterday flipping out because this raccoon was causing havoc in the ceilings of a tenants bedroom. They've been trying for days to trap it. When I did a walk through I told him the animal is climbing the deck post. He insisted they weren't because he seen a beat down path coming from the wood line to the house. Clearly a path made by kids, I placed a trap roughly 3 feet away from the concrete form and it was waiting this morning for me. Nothing more than little sweet lure and a dab of bait suspended in the rear of the trap.

JMO..You don't need to go to "trapping" school or "instructional classes" to trap raccoon. Money could be spent on better things IMO, and that's not a shot at those who run classes, it's just a fact. If anything the exclusion side of things would be a better investment if you had to pay to learn how to apply applications on structures. You can only trap what is there. Common sense goes a lonnng way in removals. Cat food sardines marshmallows mackerel all that stuff is attractive to animals. But if you can get your hands on pure form baits before they are processed, you will notice a big difference..Either way jmo.




Have to look for those subtle signs.




Fatty fresh bait is much better and imo has more appeal.

IMHO Jonesie and TDHP have it nailed.

I did sardines, marshmallows, molasses, Coon Kandy, peaches, pears, Trix, plums. Bait was in, just in and outside the cages. Had cages set right at the plum tree they were climbing to eat and get on the roof. Caught one young one on the deck by the flower pots they were knocking over. They aren't getting on the roof anymore after I trimmed the tree, but the lady is still seeing them in her yard. Grr. Can't even catch the little ones!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the info.

I think I got this from Jonesie. If your trap are used take them and power wash them. Some coon will smell the door and not go in.

I'm not a fan of just any bait being placed outside of the cage. Bait can get their interest but that doesn't mean they will eat it. But if you can get them interested to the point where they enter the cage, at that point it doesn't matter if they eat it or not. Raccoons don't pass up much. You need trail cams so you can see what they are doing when they go by the traps or even if they are traveling in that area. As far as washing the traps, any time you"handle an animal in a cage" that's code... after the fact the cage should be at a minimum rinsed. I don't think that is your problem though. I think you should invest in trail cams and use them to your advantage.That is a valuable tool in this field, it will save you time and money. The buffet you are offering to these critters isn't necessary.

I use 2 to 3 baits per cage and 3 lures. I don't know what that coon wants so I give them a choice. but just small lima bean portions. I think the first hour the coon may be hungry the rest of the night they are just being coon. entice them like a fat man in a buffet LOL

I wish I was the one selling you bait then !

lol, on a serious note if you are still after these critters get a cam and see whats going on, you are now wasting time and money.


This is my buffet, and this is a generous portion.

Tell ya what give Bob Noonan and some other well known trappers a call and ask him and them whos bait strategies he is using now. And by the way the reason I came up with that strategy is I sat and watched for hours coon working my cage traps back in the 90's, yes that's right watched the coon. and yes put a camera up and watch the coon work the cage. LT give me a call I can help you LOL

Listen to what Jonesie says.
That is IF you realy want to catch those coon.
What is the % of the bait and lure to the cost of the job?
How many times do you want to come back to that job site?
Or maybe your making your money on Milage.
Jonesie tought me to set for the 20%.We know the 80% come easy.

At our first school (SOUTH JERSEY TRAPPING and SNARING SCHOOL)
Morgan and I were along with our students watching Joneies cage trap class.
After the first 15 minites into the 2 hour class.
We looked at each other with a dumb look.That said it all.
After 30-40 years setting cage traps.
WE HAD NO CLUE HOW TO DO IT RIGHT.

I'll never be too old to learn.

Sir with great and up most respect to all your years of experience, are you saying there is only one way to set a cage trap? Could you elaborate for me, this is interesting. How so? Like cage facing north when it should be facing south or prevailing wind? Bait hung on the left on the 4th row of wire instead of the right? Only using commercial bait and lure by a certain maker? Paying $1500 + to be put up in a ranch and be taught how to carry a cage into an area and set it up? You never stop learning, but you don't need to go to school to trap raccoons. For a few dollars and investing in trail cams and some of your time, you can become very effective in trapping critters. What happens when the foundation you are taught, because that's all that instruction is, fails and you need to adapt on your own? High probability that you will have to invest in cams and figure it out on your own right? That is if you want to become efficient and not have your hand held through every job you get right? SIr I totally get it them 4000 coon a year guys are great they are the best! The folks who take your money aren't going to be there when the animal doesn't do what they taught you how to set up for. I've seen some of the best trappers come up empty on jobs who thought they had it in the bag, animals are unpredictable, I'm not buying only one way. If you would be so kind in giving an example on this topic that would be great because this is "FASCINATING"! I'm filing paperwork so I have time:)

1- SOUTH JERSEY SNARING and TRAPPING SCHOOL is only $400 for 2 1/2 days noon friday 7:00 AM till 9-10:00 PM Saterday and Sunday.

2- I did'nt say my way was the only way to set a cage.
I said Listen to what Jonesis is try to tell you. IT might help.
3- No lure maker was ever given a plug.
4- I also said I'll never be too old to learn.
5- Jonesie is the cage trap man. I never said I have all the answers.

Monies spent will greatly vary depending on how far someone travels, hotels, put up, expenses prior or after "class". I would've thought that you would have at least one example on how in 15 minutes into a 2 1/2 hour class changed 30-40 years of trapping while using a cage trap for raccoon
and all the while doing it wrong. Not even an example, not one? Wow

I agree that I do not think it’s necessarily the bait. Some of it, possibly, but I’d look elsewhere first. Somebody said you need good bait but coon will eat a lot of different things (and a lot of it lol) so bait just doesn’t seem like it’s the issue. It may be location or just the presentation in general. It might be time to give it something completely different to look at. Jonesie’s ideas and methods for ruling-out trap smart and trap shy coons absolutely work.

He tought me to set for the 20%
Also use 3 baits and 3 lures

I am done with you.
All you want to do is argue.

Well after 49 years as a fur trapper and doing wildlife control since 1979, I will tell you right here and now, there are coon every year I can not get into a cage trap no matter what I do or what bait I use, and I catch a few coon, at least one or 2 coon a year LOL If the coon is trap smart I can catch it because it will make a mistake, it will work the trap and I can figure out what I need to do, that is if I am looking for what to do different, based on the behavior of THAT COON, but if it is trap shy, it may not most likely will not get caught in a cage, but it may fall for other methods or even presenting the cage in a manor to which that coons instincts do not become alarmed. Finding out as fast as I can if I have a 80 percent coon easy to catch, or if I have a 20 % that is trap smart or trap shy is critical.

If I do not catch a coon out on the trap line with these prices, I am loosing 6 bucks. If I can't catch a coon on the Job I am loosing 275.00!!!!!! So you can bet your bottom dollar I will study coon both every where, out in the back forty and in the attic, I will take instructions and will listen to anyone that is catching coon to see if I can adapt their methods and mindsets to my bubble!!!! I would love to go out to Red O Hern in a heart beat, to pick his brain and watch him work his coon. and there are a few more that I would also take instructions from, A wise trapper or wco will always look to learn things outside of their bubble.

Sir, I apologize I meant no disrespect. Sometimes txt on a screen can come off the wrong way. I was just admiring how 15 minutes changed 40 years of trapping, I think that is amazing.:) I was just sorta-kinda wondering how it changed for you that's all. Wanted to know if it was a common sense thing or something that is worth X amount of $ to know.

I agree Jason Turner might not be bait, but if a trail cam was used to "observe" the coons actions and to see if they are even approaching the bait/trap it would eliminate a lot of the guess work and save time and money. Then its more of a common sense thing as to "change" things up if you "observe" the coons avoiding or walking by the bait by adding another trap/intercepting or "bait strategies" etc. My point and it's jmo, is that you don't need to take a class to be told to change up a trap presentation or use X bait when you have them on cam exhibiting their actions. Knowledge of the animal that you're targeting will tell you a lot about them and help to provide you with some sort of an understanding on what their attraction to the structure is which in return will benefit on the job. Again this is jmo, and I remove nuisance "trap shy" critters it seems everyday. I type "trap shy" because 9 times out of 10 they have been harassed by the homeowner with traps or someone else attempted to trap them. Every now and then I eat the humble pie and have to take a step back and reevaluate my set up because I missed something. So it takes an extra day or two, but In the end the animal is removed and I didn't need to pay someone to tell me how to set up a trap. This is something that I do for an income and for those who take it seriously it requires a lot of time and studying these animals out in the field with cams/reading and hands on applications. Not going to learn this in a class for a day or two. Good topic though!

Trap shy raccoons rank up there with grubbing skunks for me. Luckily 9 times out of 10 when dealing with a nuisance raccoon they are in someones home or building causing damage and lost sleep. If we have issues with trap avoidance, we usually sell the exclusion work and force them into a cage that way. We recently launched a trap called The Green Hornet Trap for professional NWCO's to help with these situations. Green Hornet Trap

Jonesie I agree there are a couple I'd like to visit with but not to hand them over $ for them to tell me how to set up a cage especially for a raccoon.

If it was closer and I had the time off, I would not hesitate spending $400.00 dollars to spend 3 days Listening to Newt ( whom I have never officially met ) or Jonsie, whom I have met and sat thru some of his talks at wildlife seminars. It would be a great value and learning experience I am sure. I am aware that some real good stuff always leaks out during any type of class or or meeting like that. Those two fellas have put more time in the crapper than most have experience on the line, nuisance business, or lure and bait mixing. I would consider spending $400.00 on that as "MONEY IN THE BANK". Disclaimer: I am not a paid representative of Jonsies Lures or Newt's Snaring School.

Like the positive set. Have used that set may times. I would pick up a couple if I saw them at a show. Time is money and having them premade and ready is a plus.

-puts boots on desk with popcorn in hand..wait for it...this side needs a good rolling topic. Been dead for a while.

Ouch.

Looks like a good deal, But Illegal on my state.

In my opinion, a trap shy raccoon won’t even give you a chance to catch her— she just gets out of dodge. On the other hand, a trap smart raccoon is aware of the trap and manipulates the situation to avoid getting caught. Letting the raccoon show you what you’re dealing with, and knowing your next move before you have to make it, really helps you catch these types (just about any species too). No way that it’s 100%, but it’s a high percentage. Recently I had a raccoon stealing hummer water and making a mess out of the lady’s plant it was hanging over. There were several coon and a possum or two initially but it got down to that last one that was a difficult dude to catch— and still dumping hummer water. It passed by my usual sets so I changed the strategy. Based on its behavior, I knew it liked to reach and mess w hanging stuff. Most coon do BUT this one was different and would NOT go into a cage until I hung the bait from the back, wouldn’t even oay attention apparently. I understand that many probably bait that way from the get-go but my procesure isn’t to hang bait ordinarily. The main point I’m getting at here is not bait or how to bait, it’s that the raccoon taught me how to catch it. This is my way of doing things whether gray squ, raccoons, beavers, etc. Paul Dobbins said once something like ‘it sounds cheesy but watch the beaver long enough and he’ll show you where:how to catch it.’ This isn’t foolproof but it’s a guiding principle.

So what's the response when they are trap smart? Marshmallow outside the trap is gone. Marshmallow inside the trap is gone. Marshmallow in front of the trigger wires is gone. Bait and marshmallow behind the wires is untouched.

Conis are not an option.

Just bend one of the two trigger wires hanging down from the top, back with marshmello threaded on trigger. Or thread a piece of corn cob on trigger bent to back with peanut butter on the corn cob. Or set your trigger as a bump trigger and place bait in back of trap.

When he bumps, brushes against or grabs bait the trap will fire.

If that doesn,t work set a double doored trap with backing against the trap you miss him and use a 4 way trigger just two wires hanging. Catch him circling the first set trap.

So what's the response when they are trap smart? Marshmallow outside the trap is gone. Marshmallow inside the trap is gone. Marshmallow in front of the trigger wires is gone. Bait and marshmallow behind the wires is untouched.

Conis are not an option. [/quote]

For me, If it happens 3 or 4 times in a row in your description,(trap smart) I will many times with single door trap flip the trap 180 degrees. Back is where the front was. double door trap shut one door and leave open door on the opposite side of where I think the coon is coming from. bait only in front of wires or trigger and place bait in back. Many times I will catch the coon that night. If that doesn't work and they still take the bait in front of the pan or triggers I will bait the trap up with all kinds of goodies( people food along with what I was using) and shut it down so they can not get it. I want till the trap is flipped over or moved then open the trap. I also use another method, I use 2 traps bait one heavy front and back, and close it down, and set double door right next to it and cover both with a trap leave ends open, Trap shy coon I use another method after 2nd day I see they take bait out side trap but not take any on the inside of trap.
I have a few more trap smart cage trap tricks that I use that I will not go into here.

Used to think I got shorted because we have so few coon. Now listening to the nightmare scenarios with trap shy coon, maybe its just as well I don't get many calls. Just saw a short video on Business Builders Ron Scheller posted of a really smart coon. Wonder if it is a pet? Any animal with brains, strength and hands has got to be trouble.

A 55 gallon barrel with a little vegetable oil it the bottom of it and whatever bait the raccoon is responding to in there.
Give it an easy way to get to the top of the barrel. Once it gets it and gets oil on his feet, he will not be able to clime out.

Jim most coon are going to be easy to catch, set a trap and it will be there next day. but when they get educated they can be a real pain. I don't gage my self on the 80 % coon I gage my productivity on the 20% and how much cussing I do at it. LOL By the way how you feeling?

I guess I should be overjoyed. If 20% of your raccoon are being a problem, I'm very fortunate! Ours is closer to 2%, which is good because we have to catch well over a thousand in a year.

I’ve trapped both successfully and unsuccessfully for more than 30 years but have found I don’t know my subject critter (coon) very well, so I’m going to take the Ron Jones & Co class in January. This is something I should have done years ago. For those who question the cost, I’m looking at the investment potential and the gain over future years.

I’m older, a hobby fur trapper who does occasional ADC work and could use some one-on-one time with people who make their living doing ADC. The flight, motel, food and school cost is cheaper than buying a used car or a new shotgun. The gain potential is that I won’t have to absorb from my own experience. This takes years and at age 68, I don’t know how many years that actually means. Yet, at the school, I not only get to bug instructors for two and a half days, but I get the cross pollination effect being with a dozen other students who have experiences and knowledge they’re willing to share. In my book it’s a win-win situation I can’t pass up.

Jonesie:
When are you going to come out with your DVD on how you bait ext. you coon traps? I listen to you a few years ago on the radio program. I set my trap as you described. I do ADC on a small scale. Works for me. I blow there mind with smell and something to see that looks good to eat. I have even put a plastic egg behind the pan. We all know coons like and know what a egg is. LOL

Teacher- if one has the time and money, might as well go do the class I guess. I'm sure it'd be interesting.

Fellas all I can tell you is if you think Jonesie knows his stuff about raccoons, ask him about squirrels. He can mouth call either to him.
I’d love to know just a fraction of what he has forgotten about catching critters.

Now on the other hand, the sorry rascal will come within 40 miles of you to see family and never call you to let you know he’s there. Lol!