okay Beav,you goaded me into showin a secret,but you better promise to never tell anyone.
keeps the trap from sinking in the mud AND secures well on stoney bottoms.

Beav probably has to look for hours for a stick...….Give me a 110 and I will get'er in there one way or another with whats on hand.

Me likes that! I'll take 100

Nice set up.

But before you make a 100 better be sure your BG fits those MB clips.
Some traps out of the same box fit so tight you can't set them and some are so loose they won't stay stable.

yepper-needlenose-i have about a hundred.

alright Beav,lets see one of you're secrets.know ya got a couple.

I've gotta believe most of you fellas have never tried the KB stabilizer.

Do yourself a favor. Order 1 KB and a #150 Bridger bodygrip. Mate the two, then ask yourself why you're screwing around with all this other stuff.

i'll settle for a pic of you're boot and a stick i f that's all ya got.

Mine all do, from 110 to 220, bend the tabs..

Beav ain't been back on since i posted that pic and he commented.musta been a heck of a line at the patent office.

whats a spiked coni??

happy birthday,you remove the rivet opposite the spring and put a 6 in carriage bolt through it with 2 washers and 2 nuts.

To much screwing around then when you start out next year you don't know what ones fit what traps. I guess you could color code them. But again more screwing around.
Those spring loaded KBs are super good. And really easy to make.

I have a system that works pretty good but I don't do pictures. And It's a bit complicated to build. But for a few B&E gimmick sets it's not to much of a hassle. LOL
The system allows me to set the trap In 3 different positions. And once It's In place you never have to pull the stake to check the trap. Just take your hook slide it down the stake hook the stabilizing bracket and slide it up the stake. Same way going down and your always In position. In fact you don't even have to wear gloves.

you was makin me nervous bein missin for a day or 2.

i will say too that it was a big reason for me selling all my 110 size traps and buying 10 dozen new victors a year ago.

for hard to set areas Beav,also saves stacking rocks a foot high.

Read Ken Smythe's book and you will see he stressed simplicity. If I remember correctly he talked about carrying a couple 110's into a stream and that was it. With his trap's pre-rigged with wire it was a simple matter for him to set the trap, stabilize with a stick, and wire it off. Fast, simple, and no need to carry a bucket full of tools. I don't run hundreds of these sets, but do find them effective in certain situations.

When I use this set I stabilize one of three ways. On tree lined streams I opt for a stick. If I am on an open creek with grassy banks and few if any trees I use a rebar stake. Lastly, if I am trapping along a rocky stream a small rock placed over the down turned trap spring does the job. Nice and simple and it works for me.

i flat wore out a book and video.

That screen looks like It will work. I just take all my old shot bags and fill them with sand or dirt and lay them down. And It makes a really neat system for bedding your trap. You can make your own sand bags out of old sweat pants or Jean legs.

With my B&E set up you don't even have to get In the water. It also works great In rat runs. The other thing nice about It Is you can pre stake the runs. Then once the season opens just either boat or walk around and just slide your trap and the apparatus down the stake.
You need a square stake and a 2" section of square tubing. Then I have a spring clip that fastens to the tubing. That places pressure against the stake so the you can adjust the depth of the trap. Between the spring clip and the tubing I place a section of sheet metal I thinks It's 16gauge. These all get pop riveted to the tubing. So when you get ready to place your trap you just slide the spring end of the BG onto the sheet metal. You can bend a tab or 2 on the end of the sheet metal so the trap won't come off when It's sprung. Know you can leave the trap sticking straight out from the stake or you can turn It up or down so It's right up against the stake. You can use 150s 110s and even 160s. If your going to use 160s I'd go with 14gauge metal.

I know a picture would be a lot clearer.