These mink boxes suck.



I have a few more that no pic got took of. They'll set for a week, at a spot before a catch usually on the average, and get moved after a catch.

I have 4000 of them set...I'm gonna be rich, lol.

Not at $5.00 per mink LOL
It must be a dead of winter thing when Mr. mink Is desperate for a meal.

Pretty much...after ice up and very little water left, and I set where it opens up once a week.

IHi Les. What do you figure that cat is worth?

That's a good question. It's got a nice belly. I'll put it up and you can see it again.

60-100 for our cats, I think.

Here is that belly side of that cat with some snow on it.

When did you start using a pan trigger trap recessed deep into a box with a restricted entrance hole?

BC , I have a couple of those, but the rest are bell triggers with monofilament fishing line. I am doing a little test. I restricted the opening because , in my mind, it's more attractive to mink. It does not restrict marten at all if they are in the area, and if a fisher wants in, you cant stop him from setting off the trap. No problems with coon in the late season. On about half my sets I flipped up the door just to see if it matters, and I don't know if it does.

Les, have you thought about rigging a signaling system similar to a fishing tip up? Once the #120 fires, it would release a "tip up flag" that would pop up. A fella could use binoculars to check whether or not the trap has been fired. You'd have to rebait occasionally depending on thaws and mice, but at least (here in WI) that daily check thing could be minimized to a quick stop with the truck, roll down the window, and scope downrange for that flag. Just a thought.

flaaaag

Most of Beav s advice is pretty legit. But sometimes he talks outta turn. Lol.

For example he once stated under ice ratting was a “crapshoot”. If I could roll dice like that I’d never leave the casino. I love the game anyway.

trapper les- are you seeing a significant catch difference between... with or without pans?

It Is for those that know what they are doing. I don't remember saying I was one of those. lOL

After my last beaver job I wondering If I know how to catch beaver.

I have thought of that, and maybe saw something like that on this forum in the last few years. Coming up with the little spring steel flag wire would be the next thing, Do you have any ideas on what one might use ? I"ve seen this on tip-ups but don't know where that flag wire steel comes from.

2 out of 5 catches with pans allowed the mink to get suitcases too far in. My pan is facing towards the opening, affized to the opposite jaw, so as to get pulled, not pushed. I should turn the trap around once and give that a test. The mono makes a better catch that kills quicker, so far in the test anyway. I think a test should include 100 catches, and this will take awhile, and the trap set up should be 50% of each, with half of each with the trap turned each way. The trap is up against the bait.

Try putting a pan on your 110 or 160 and then just lay the body grip flat on the bottom of the box. I've caught rats that way but never tried It In a box.

That worked great when I was running a road line with 160s. You could check the line twice as fast If the flag wasn't up you were good to go.

Now that's almost "thinking outside the box" except inside. lol.

I have used pan trigger 120 traps for marten,mink and fisher for many years recessed deep into the box about 4 inches in front of the bait have never had a bad catch, except once with a fisher reaching for the bait. Always a neck thorax strike on marten and mink and neck catch on fisher. The dog on your trap should point to the box entrance and the pan over the back jaw towards the bait angled upward about 20 degrees. With the pan trigger trap set in any other manner than that I described I have found you will have misses and poor catches.

The Beav don't need no flags, all his traps make catches. ( Chuck Norris- like)