Re: Necker 600/ beam curvature?
[Re: bblwi]
#6428762
01/15/19 12:10 AM
01/15/19 12:10 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797 Wisconsin
The Beav
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No need to have the curvature of the beam to match the curvature of the knife. Just taper the edges of the beam so you don't have any square edges. Your only using about 2 to 3" of your knife blade when fleshing and the knife should be just about flat when making contact. If your using the whole knife blade your doing something wrong. A sideways slicing motion Is all you need and the top of your beam can be just about flat.
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Re: Necker 600/ beam curvature?
[Re: bblwi]
#6428985
01/15/19 09:46 AM
01/15/19 09:46 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,626 Flint, Michigan
bhugo
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Flint, Michigan
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I have been using a Necker 600 for about 200 years. As I get older I am working to keep the sharp edge sharper. I have two 600s. One I have used every year and one I just used on 10 coons this year. The newer one is much sharper. I have not been able to effectively get the sharp edge much sharper on the older knife. What are some ways others get and keep those edges sharp?
Also I have been using a wall mounted beam that is quite flat. What is the best curvature from your experiences that works with a knife like the Necker 600? I do very few yotes, and few otters. It is 98% coon and or grinners. I use other knives for mink and rats. I am keeping the dull edge pretty dull but I am finding that pushing a lot of fat and membrane is getting more difficult.
Thank you
Bryce I use a butcher steel between coon real quick and light. Keeps it going a long time. Diamond sharpening Rodvery occasionally.
Member MTPCA, FTA and NTA
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Re: Necker 600/ beam curvature?
[Re: bblwi]
#6429097
01/15/19 11:05 AM
01/15/19 11:05 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797 Wisconsin
The Beav
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my beam Is 5" wide I start out with the ears centered take off that neck gristle. Then I turn the hide with one leg up and centered. Cut off the legs before you start that way you can go right over them and not have to screw around working around them. It also helps with sow coon so you don't cut off the teats. Hike the hide up and finish It down to the flank. Don't over reach. Now flip the hide and do the other part leg up. This Is all done with the dull side of the knife. The concave side if your using a necker. Then just turn the hide ears centered and take off the center strip. Most of this can be done with the dull edge.
Remember start out with the knife up at a slight angle and once your under the fat and gristle flatten it out and make side wise slices. If your trying to push off a whole section buy just pushing In a straight line your working to hard at It. Think about how a snow plow works. If the blade wasn't turned the snow would build up and stall out the truck. You don't want a lot of build up In front of your knife. So keep your knife turned a bit as you push. Another thing your always going to get some build up on your blade edge so you want to be cleaning your edge as you go. I just swipe It across the hide after I make a few slices.
Keep your knife blade FLAT your not scraping bark off a tree. And If your knife has a bevel keep It up.
Same as a wood plane you want the fat and gristle to roll off and away from your knife edge just like wood shavings roll away from a wood plane blade.
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Re: Necker 600/ beam curvature?
[Re: The Beav]
#6429104
01/15/19 11:12 AM
01/15/19 11:12 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797 Wisconsin
The Beav
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Another thing you should be doing Is take the dull side of your knife and take a file and square It up a bit. The edges over time will get rounded off and make pushing fat harder then It should be. You will also get a better and cleaner job with a squared off dull edge. Your not sharpening It your just creating a square edge so It bites In a bit better. This squared off edge will also help In pushing off that center strip where most guys use the sharp edge. In my opinion this squared off dull edge Is just as important as the sharp edge.
Last edited by The Beav; 01/15/19 11:15 AM.
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Re: Necker 600/ beam curvature?
[Re: bblwi]
#6429121
01/15/19 11:33 AM
01/15/19 11:33 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,516 La Crosse, WI
Macthediver
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Ok so now I'm watching this post too. I use a Necker and have two beams one 5 inch wide one 8 inch wide at base. Both are set to the curve of the dull edge of my knife.. The shape from nose end down on the wider big board is I think, about the shape of a medium coon board.. So I do any coon that fit that beam on it. The other narrow beam gets the skunks, possum smaller coon. I really wouldn't mind having just one beam if I could decide on what width it should be.
Mac
"Never Forget Which Way Is Up"
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Re: Necker 600/ beam curvature?
[Re: bblwi]
#6429145
01/15/19 11:54 AM
01/15/19 11:54 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797 Wisconsin
The Beav
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Wisconsin
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Size really doesn't matter when It comes to a BEAM well to a point.
And the base shouldn't even be considered. Since your never going to reach down that far anyway. Well unless your long armed and over reaching. Hike the hide up as you go so you have control and aren't wearing yourself out. Mine is about 6" wide at the widest point and I can do every thing On It other then mink and rats. With a narrower tapered nose end you will be able to do skunks and grinners with no issues. In fact lots of guys just lay the grinner or skunk on top of the beam to keep from getting to deep Into the roots. Remember your only using about 3" of your knife blade anyway so wider Isn't going to make It any better.
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