Hand file all the way. You just have to get the right stroke on it. If you run the file on each tooth once or twice between tanks of gas it will stay very sharp. Even with damaged teeth a hand file is the best fix in my opinion. Not to mention you get the most precise edge when done correctly.

Agree with Marten Ted.

Waxy what??? Ummmm no....got it used at a garage sale for $30. I'll Czech in to that. Thank you.

They are about 1 inch in diameter and several inches long. In a cardboard tube. Mine are dark blue. Just touch it to the wheel a few times while sharpening.....in other words....while the wheel is spinning. Check Baileys.

this!

X4-after getting one of these I cannot believe how poorly of a sharpener I used to be. Best $40 you'll spend!!!!!!!!!!

Was given a harbor one, I need tutored how to use it as I can not get chain sharp like a file. Seems like only two adjustments when in my mind three are needed.
Sure is nice when I hit the chain on wrong thing tho.
A lot more to this than pushing a file, always learning.

I agree with the hand file opinions. Get a round file and a guide a small flat file and a gauge for the rakers. When you hit a rock, fence, nail etc take to Ace for a sharpening

I file.
it isn't hard.
it is portable and it makes chains last a long time. entry cost is much lower.

I tried a grinder , I didn't like how it ate chains , making very tooth even takes more metal and reduced chain life considerably and isn't necessary.

I have hit asphalt with a chain and a file still fixes it , just takes a few more minutes.

my chains are all under 30 dollars each most in the 15-18 dollar range so if I hit a nail and it rips cutters off the chain I call is a loss

files wear out , my local saw shop they are 2 dollars each cash for round files when you find yourself needing more than 4 good strokes on a non damaged cutter grab a new file it is time.

remember to set the rakers , the rakers set up the cutter depth , you grab too little you get saw dust , grab to much and it doesn't cut smooth and loads the saw down working it harder than is should.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4RS32-YJMc

this guy is a bit of a character but shows fairly well how to sharpen a saw chain with a file

you want your chain speed up pulling the right size chip to keep the speed up and the chip flying , if you try to get too hungry of a cutter it slows the chain down.

I tie a beaver on a chain, next to the tree, and let him go at it.

I used to keep several chains ready to go most of the times. I had a set up in my basement with a regular chain sharpener mounted to a wall stud. I have always kept a file or two handy for touching up a new chain. Now all I use is a portable rechargeable variable speed handheld Dremel like tool from Wal-Mart It's their store brand hyper tough model.. Only use Oregon stones in it as they seem to last the longest. It's a little bit of a trick getting on to sharpening a chain so as all the cutters are the right angle and all the same length when your done. Even taking off some from the depth gauges took a while to master. But after almost 50 years of running a saw and making wood I can do a near perfect job. Once in a great while I have to retouch up a sharpening job.... but not often.

I file every tank of fuel. 1 to 3 passes. A few tanks and it goes to the bench grinder to true it up. I also check the rakers with a Guage frequently. Nothing worse than a dull chain.

When I first started cutting I did the 3 strokes with a file on each side. Never got good at it. I bought a Belsaw grinder 35 yrs ago and a big improvement. Then I sold that and got a lower end Oregon which I still have and does an OK job. Last year I bought the high end Oregon and works great. I cut a lot of dirty wood so my cutters are always beat so it would take forever to do my chains with a file.

Appreciate everyone 's insights- thanks for the replies

I cut in woods for 40 plus years both for fire wood and pulp I will never go back to a hand file, I bought a bench sharper from harbor freight an love it I've had it for about 7 years

I use a dremel chainsaw sharpener most of the time. I don't clamp mine at all-just mark a tooth, sharpen every-other tooth from one side then turn the saw and do the rest. I also bought a 12 volt model from baileys to do it when I'm out in the woods but close to the truck or atv. Other times I use a file.
The little grinders surprised the heck out of me. the saw is very sharp after using them and they are faster than any other way I've tried.

Sthil 2in1 or Pfhard same thing. It cuts rakers down at same time. Simple to use and can get chain sharper than factory IMO.

I always preferred Stihl chain. Any chain when factory new didn't seem to cut 100% for me, it seemed like when I got it hand filed down to 75% was when I got my best cut. Once down to 25% and the teeth got weak and broke off / bent and started going the other way..

The harbor Freight bench unit that was given me does an excellent job with no excess grinding if you set it up right as Gulo said. I can file one one in half the time though and do it where ever I'm at. So, I file them til the teeth are about half used then run on the grinder to true all the teeth up then file them til too small to cut. Gimmic files and rotary files and file holders are the sucks a lot tools of the chainsaw world, imo.