I've only got a handful of cage traps and need to pick up some more. Do you guys find yourself using the single or double door traps more?

Also any trouble using raccoon sized trap for skunks? Trying to have the most versatility with what I can afford. My targets are skunks, groundhogs, raccoons.

Doing any serious cage trapping the use of single or a double door trap may be better in a particular situation. If limited to finances the larger cages will provide more versatility over all. When it comes to skunks I prefer to limit their mobility in a trap therefore I prefer a smaller cage for that kind of specific trapping.

That makes sense. Do you like the tube traps? I worry they get too hot.

Doubles have a universal purpose, but I tend to use single door traps with a rear slide release more unless I'm running positives. For skunks I use standard cage traps 36x11x12 rear slide release or smaller and use a piece of rubber to cover the traps with great success. If you already have some tools to do the jobs, I wouldn't come out of pocket for traps right off the cuff, I would let the jobs buy them. Then you can start to play the who makes the best trap game, which would come into play on the applications you apply them to on the job. I know folks who went out and bought all kinds of cool new trapping gear and supplies for their jobs, but they don't have the volume of work to make up for it and their traps sit on the bench. To each their own

If you are having trouble with animals not going all the way to the back of a single door, just put a piece of cardboard on the pan half way to the door and set a hair trigger. But I have both. Just make sure you buy good traps. No junk. JMO

I just want to have at least one good trap for each animal. I've got a few but they are mostly lower end traps with single doors. I can't get quality traps locally so I'm torn about waiting until a job arrives but you're right about not knowing how much and what kind of work I might have.

Curious could you define a good trap for each animal? Lots out there think everything is junk unless it costs $200 to $300 a trap. Some traps grow legs and are damaged due to third party interference and in some cases the homeowner is to blame. If you're the type of individual who doesn't do a whole lot of volume and are on a budget how do you plan on replacing them super expensive elite traps? You place a trap in an area where neighbors aren't friendly to what you are doing, you will find out real fast what I'm talking about. Your tactics may be different, if you need costly" good traps" to trap raccoons,skunks and groundhogs...good luck to ya. Our traps take a beating, they're stepped on by farm animals, been kicked around by customers kids, been cut with appeared to be bolt cutters and have been taken apart. Have to take into consideration on where you will be trapping as well. As stated to each their own...you asked and people responded.

If I trapped raccoon, woodchucks, and skunks and wanted to limit myself to one cage, you can bet that it would be the Comstock 24 inch 2-door. I've already caught hundreds of those animals in that Comstock and there really isn't a situation that doesn't lend itself to that cage!

I was looking at the Safeguard traps on wildlifecontrolsupplies.com. Mine are all Havahart (with the unreliable gravity latch) and only one has the good strong spring latched door that will hold a big coon but it's kinda big at 15x15x 40ish.

"...you asked and people responded" I appreciate all the responses, they have been informative.

I was under the impression I wanted a longer trap with the double door. Is that not necessary with the Comstock spring loaded doors?

If it works for you, that is fantastic Mr. Winkelmann. I don't believe those traps are necessary for me and I trap plenty of critters with the traps I use. Like buying a $1,700 set of clubs, they are nice and durable but will they really improve your swing? If you can't get an animal to enter the cage, it really don't matter what brand you use.

X2

Go with a single door live trap. Clint Smith out of South Dakota used to make the best live traps. Runnings which is a regional farm store has a good version of Smith's. You want the trigger system where the animal steps on a rod grate and not having to cross a metal plate.

While I am not volunteering him, maybe Jerry Herbst will see your question and point you in the right direction as he knows his stuff and was posting some live trap photos here not long ago with yotes in them. He might be able to suggest something affordable and heavy duty for your work. Just remember that skunks go into big traps while coons will enter small traps, but get frustrated and are harder to deal with. I learned that lesson from using Meyer traps which used to be produced out of Iowa. Stout trap, but had the plate trigger and a boar coon bent the trigger rod into a cork screw.

How does one know that is the best trap? I thought those other traps were the best traps? That's like reading posts of people using the "BEST" bait & Lure because so n so's cronies said so and trap 1000 coon a year on it, but have to go on a trapping forum to ask for another "BEST" bait & lure because the "BEST" bait & lure isn't so "BEST" for them. All the critters that have been taken by a solid plate didn't seem to mind them, and there are many every year. Its all preference, but If you happen to find the best trap let me know.

I'd choose similar, but go with a longer trap, 30"


But assuming you choose a quality trap, success depends more on where you put it than who makes it.

I am not an expert and can't really comment on the best trap for ADC work, but I know that this cheaper trap, (Bridger Live Cage Raccoon Trap (29" x 12" x 12")), has not been turned down by any of my visiting raccoons (I've heard that raccoons can learn to roll these over and escape, but staking them down solves that).

I've seen videos of raccoons escaping from cheap traps--from inside they reach around the door and pull on the bar that holds the door down. I'd avoid those.

A common theme that I've picked up here is that all trappers may have their own ways, but they adapt what they know to the behavior of the animal they are trying to catch.

TDHP had written about putting traps on the raccoon's path and after observing them for a bit, I did just that and sure enough, next time they came by, they were in the trap almost before I could walk outside the house to meet them.

That bit of knowledge was much more valuable than the brand of cage.

It is possible to set one trap for coons, groundhogs and skunks. Just have it figured out what you are going to do when you catch a skunk.

Double doors for me, especially with skunks and woodchucks. This time of year the bait (mama skunk) is under the shed or deck.

When you stop and think about it, it's really hard to catch the animal if they never walk by the trap. Putting it where they will walk by greatly increases your chances!

I like to blind set skunks so I'd say they have to walk pretty close lol!

Why would you need to find an animals activity area if you're using bait and lure made by "experts" with bs claims like "calls animals in from miles"? Placing a trap in the general area has always been the objective, and locating that area has always been a problem for some, especially if they are already in a large structure or out in the field. In return bait & lure was supposed to do the trick and be the key to success regardless of cage size, brand and who was the legend in the trapping communities that made them, and imo..that is the problem. Folks focus too much on what is the best bait, base material, ingredient lists, how long to age their bait, glass or plastic, best ingredient for X while they continue to lose money and waste time. I've taken folks out on the adc line and asked them to tell me where they would set a trap and why, most of these folks were fur "trappers". Not many want to put the work that is needed into the process as a whole to increase their success rate because lets face it, nothing is guaranteed and from the many posts on trapping forums and techs/fur trappers I know in the field prove that theory to me. I've talked shop with many just to entertain them and it's always the same bs, you need this bait to whack and stack this brand of cage because xy and z. Boils down to folks who aren't experienced or have an idea on what they are doing are just being taken advantage of. They see catch photos of hundreds of critters in cages and taken on bait and run with it. Are they bought? Somebody ask a trapper who does well to use their photos to promote their product even if they didn't use that specific bait, lure or cage? Who knows, but it happens. There are hundreds of great bait out there that will take thousands of animals, but you need to put the work in like the folks who do it, the brand of cage won't fix the lack of ability to evaluate what will work best for you. OP wants a good trap for each animal that he could afford, did the OP type his price range? Plenty of good traps on the market that will make you money hand over fist if you have the volume. Those who've had traps come up missing or deliberately damaged which will eventually happen know it's a lot easier to spend $60 + shipping vs $200 to $300 a whack. I know it is for me, and again it's all preference but OP is already talking about a budget.

We own several hundred cages and catch a couple thousand animals each year. We like to give every cage a fair shot at proving their worth but I've never paid more than about $100 for a cage. Perhaps you can tell me where these $200 to $300 dollar cages for catching raccoon, woodchuck, and similar sized animals can be found. Since you don't use two door cages, you probably don't use positive sets much either. If you like to find out which bait and lure works best, try trapping a huge outside shed that contains every possible food source that any animal could possibly ever want. That was my challenge at a Fleet & Farm. I did end up catching over 100 animals in a 2 month period but I'm sure when all this snow melts, I can start all over again.

Guess you missed that part. I have no doubt that you trap thousands of critters, and don't care one bit....BUT...regarding challenges, I could relate. I trap farms with plenty of natural food sources along with an abundance of grain/feed scattered throughout the farms, some with torn bags and feed all over the ground. Still make the catches I need to make snow or no snow. No problems at all using the bait I use with the cages I run.. ^5 ...Brand of trap won't make a difference for what the op is trying to trap. jmo

Well, yes and no regarding the brand of trap not making a difference.

I don't think that the style of trap makes a difference. One can be successful with each.

I've seen and used cheap traps that will work great with skunks and chucks, but will get the door torn off with a raccoon.

These ones come to mind:

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...t-catch-release-live-animal-traps-2-pack

The cheap traps tend to wear out faster and need constant adjustment. You can keep them going by constant fettling, but as you get busier, you have less time to deal with that.

Double door traps for skunks, chucks, positive sets for coon and squirrels too. Baitless trapping, when possible, which is a whole lot of the time, is unbeatable. Bait carries with it the element of chance, but with trials, blind sets, dig outs, posi-sets all the animal has to do is move, in or out. I used bait for years and single door traps too, finally went to double door traps and gave up the bulk of bait trapping. Have not used bait for a chuck in 10 years, got 142 last summer. You can use the double door trap in a trail, den and also with bait if you have to, multi-use. Though you can use a single door trap at a den, you will only catch one way, which is very limiting since there is no way to tell where the critter is, in or out. The many guys who have adopted these methods with double door traps would never go back.

There was a comment earlier about traps being stolen. It's a little off topic but I've taken to staking down cages with earth anchors in locations (front yards) that are likely to walk off. Also have replacement of lost/damaged equipment noted in the contract.

On topic- I'm primarily using Comstock cages. Smaller double door swing panels, 12x12 double door beaver size and comstock double door bifold traps.

Coverage for lost/damaged traps isn't off topic because it's part of the process in determining cost for the business and might play a significant role on the selection process for some regarding good traps, and should be in every contract. That's another can of worms if monies aren't received upfront or rolled into the price vs trying to get the customer to purchase a new trap after the fact which could be challenging.

I have a cable swaging tool. This year in some high traffic hunting zones I cabled my fisher boxes to trees (lynx exclusion devices are expensive). You just loose a couple inches of cable each time you do it. Wont stop vandals but it looks like the Comstocks can take some abuse. It's going to be hard for me to convince anyone around here to pay up if traps are stolen. Contract or no contract. Seems like Havahart is the only ones with a double door in the cheaper category but you can go on youtube and watch video after video of raccoons escaping from them.

How many escaped from the traps you use now? I've had customers that had friends and neighbors release animals that were trapped but told me they got out. Found that out by knocking on doors and asking tenants. When I run doubles I use havahart, and when some customers tossed them out because they couldn't get them to enter the cage, I scooped them up with their permission. When I ran into single door traps, I turned a few into oneway doors that worked well and used them on jobs to hold animals with no problems. I run a standard decent trap to me anyways, not the best but continues to make money by containing the animals on the jobs they are utilized on. I don't buy into the whole you need X trap at X length and any other bs that is said about how one needs to trap the animals your targeting, unless there is limited space and the application requires a smaller trap..not because the animal is said to not enter X trap. I like to show up and set the traps with confidence in them and my abilities to get the job done, and then follow up the following day for trap check, if the animal is waiting great, if not I set a cam up and go from there. Positive frame of mind tends to boost skill and other things, doubting your abilities and gear before you start is only setting yourself up to fail.
When it comes to coons, I find the medium sized energetic coons tend to do a little more work on the cages, but have no issues retrieving them from jobs.



Standard cages for skunks as well, unless I need a smaller cage due to the location and area regarding space. No issues with them entering larger traps either, jmo if you offer them something they want and interests them and they are in the area, they will enter. You will have a ton of responses from folks who use methods that work for them and not for others, all preference and lots think that because so n so uses it they need to as well...that is false. Like watching videos, seeing pictures like below and on numerous forums of "thousands" of animals that have been taken on the best bait and cages. Then you go and use the best bait and cage but nothing walks remotely close to it, but it's the best on the market.









Luckily this trap stuck around, but the animal didn't.



This trap was shot at and animal removed, land owner confirmed it by his trail cams.

TDHP- I meant staking down cages with earth anchors is a little off topic.

Trappers complain about footholds being stolen with or without an animal in them that range from $7 to $20 depending on where you buy from. If you are one of the lucky ones to have one of your expensive cages come with a pair of gofasters and decide to skedaddle on ya, you will wan't to figure in something to offset the cost, especially if you're already talking about traps that you can afford. Walking up to a job where someone has stolen ya cage does things to some people.

Mah man, I feel ya, but everything that pertains to the cage has a cost if you are in this for business. jmo

I hear ya. I think that it's going to be easier for me to try and figure in a percentage that accounts for trap wear as well as a certain amount of theft and vandalism rather than to try and get deposited or funds after the fact. I find most people just want a price that they are going to pay period without surprises. Obviously barring the unforeseen. Clearly a cheaper trap keeps the price down IF it can do the job. I do not doubt what you say in regards to traps but obviously there are two sides and people have strong opinions both ways. You have convinced me to try the Havahart though. For $60 delivered to my house I think that if nothing else I can make an informed decision.

TDHP- What happened to that trap? The one in the picture surrounded by pine boughs and oak leaves.
Is that vandalism/theft or an escape?

Someone didn't like the fact a trap was there.

People will always have opinions due to lobbying for friends who sell a product, business, and methods that work for them etc. Have to find something that works for you and that will satisfy your needs for the jobs you do. I only type that because you typed about something you could afford, something happens to the product you buy and you need to break the bank buying a new one before you build some cushion sounds counter productive to making money if you're adc'n. Flip side to that is, you need to spend money to make money..how much is up to you. Whatever you decide, good luck my friend!

Thanks TDHP! Now that I've filled in the gap in my animal traps I need to focus on catching some customers!!

I usually just read these posts and learn as my part time control work dose not even compare to most of you.
I didn't see anyone mention size of holes in the wire. When I first started, I used the traps I had on hand that had 1X1 wire. I quickly learned skunks and coon will pull everything they can reach inside the cage with this wire. I started using cages with 1/2X1 wire do to recommendations from this site. The customers are much happier if their yard, shingles, flowers, and other items are left in tact when you capture the animal in question. This is something to consider when deciding on a new cage. As far as traps I have been using wickencamp(?spelling) for my single doors and comstock double doors. Both of these traps were recommended to me years ago and are still holding up great.

The question at the top was about using one size cage trap for several animals. We carry 30 inch double door traps when we want to take 'coon, skunks, chucks, possum. If we are just trapping chucks and skunks we use 24 and mostly 18 inch double door cage traps. Using nose cones makes it a snap. If there is a question about the length I would err on the side of caution and use the next size up.

Reading all the posts I definitely have to agree half inch wire is definitely the way to go, you will have much happier customers. If you are fur trapping you can go with a cheaper trap as if you miss an animal from an escape it's not to bad. Losing an animal while doing ADC work however is a different story as you are being paid to capture ALL the problem animals and if you miss one with an escape it is going to be very tough to get it again. I prefer double ended traps as they can be used baited or as a positive set. I have been doing nuisance work for quite a while and have tried many traps. Wickencamps are good but they allow quite a bit of the outside brought into the inside due to the door format. I now use Comstock's and Williams traps both give me the best bang for my buck. If you only can afford a few of the Comstock's I would suggest the universal style as you would be able to use them for positive or baited sets. Helpful hint if you have skunks in your area always cover traps set on the ground, it makes your day go much quicker.

What do you guys use to cover the cages? Something natural like bark or pine boughs? A 'cover' also can help keep rain out of your bait, and can be used to cover bait so it isn't sight exposed.

Rubber does the trick, no problems trapping and removing while using it. Laun, paneling, the boxes that the cages come in work well for a while until the elements beat them up. When I cover a cage for a skunk it is to keep it calm and in the dark for what hopefully is a smooth removal.



Piece of bark or handful of debris will do the trick, I like to use rubber for a full or partial cover to keep the cages dry and provide a little shelter for the animal when it calls for weather, plenty of airflow to keep it cool even on hot sunny days with both ends open. When it comes to keeping bait/lure dry I like to use a piece of pvc cut on an angle that is suspended in the rear of the cage by wire that is not secure. It serves as an occupier and eye appeal as well.