Trap set back is the key, but set back from what? The entrance is essentially a hole, whether it's the whole front of the box or a hole cut with a sabre saw. A hole is a hole.

Come up with an opening that will restrict the 'coon from reaching so far back into the box. You can call that entrance a hole if you'd like, or call it the entrance to the box, or the front of the box. Whatever, that's what I'm talking about.

If the trap is set back 8", how big can the "opening" (whether it's round, square, rectangular, whatever) be before it can reach in 9"?

I think I made reference to nothing less then a 2 3/4" "round" hole. You still need to get the mink to enter. And of course a bigger hole would be better.
A coons leg Is only so long so If you have a trap set back from the front of the box at lets say at 10" you should be good to go.

Or to make It even more difficult for the coon make the ROUND hole In the side and up close to the front of the box. That way the coon would have to turn and twist It's paw and leg to reach back for the bait. This should allow for less set back for the trap.
And If the mink should enter the box set back shouldn't be an Issue. You could even take a section of 2x4 and hole saw a hole through that then nail It over the hole In the box so It lines up. They do that on Blue bird houses.

Give It some thought.

I saw your question Muskrat and I went to my carcass pile and measured a few coon front legs. Here's my conclusion if you want extended check time.

Their front leg is an average of 9" from armpit to toe tip
So 10" set back.

Hole size 23/4" with the top of the hole below center of the front closure of the box.

The box should be anchored so it can not be rolled over moving the hole farther from the ground and making it easier for a coon to spring the trap
Which if it is rolled it will probably spring the trap anyway

Those leg measurements were taken from the carcass. Might be a little shorter with the pelt on.

Just stay with BMP type rules because your state like mine relyes on them to make a lot of their regulations

Just my 2 cents

I wouldn't bury milk jugs in the snow for a test. I would set on sign like I do, at beaver structure and along creeks up on top and in plain sight on travelways. Tha't how the boxes work for me. And only in the late season after ice up.

Come on Les he's not going to just randomly place sets here and there. Set on sign and be done with It.

And It's only a test to see If a mink will enter through a restricted opening. We don't even need to place a trap In the jug just bait It and maybe add some lure.

Beav, IF . . . a mink will enter through a restricted opening? It appears to me from reading through this thread, there are successful mink trappers out there who have had mink enter through a restricted opening.

Do you doubt their catch reports and methods?

The WTA meeting is a month from now. Not much diddle time to test to see if mink will enter through a restricted opening.

Time to write it up.

With Wetdog's additional info I believe we have the size opening and the distance from opening to trigger.

Get It done.

Has anyone tried a concept similar to a wood duck house predator guard? You could have a larger entry hole leading to the 2-3/4" hole in the box, this might entice the mink to enter but he would have to travel through a longer tunnel.Works on drain tile sets but that diameter is 6". Building the front out could shorten the box length.


I'm heading north to do some beaver trapping- I'm happy to make some boxes to specific sizes and test them- just let me know if I can help.

Can’t keep mink out of boxes here including Marten boxes as high as 6 feet up the tree. Open boxes. Incidental catch is usually between 70-100 per season.

I think the tunnel would be way to restrictive.



Make a few boxes with a 2 3/4 " round opening. You really don't need to put a trap In them just bait em up. Or I guess you could set em up with some 120s

If your going to build them with a 9" trap set back I would cut the notches In from the back side then they only have to be about 4" deep Instead of 9" deep. Make the back so It swings open so you can place the trap and the bait. Hole saw a 3" hole In the back section then staple on some 1/4" hardware cloth over the hole. A couple of nails should work for hinges so the back can be opened up.

Beav- Let's make sure we're on the same sheet of music before I make more

Spot On Eagleye. You are a master wood worker. Beautiful job If they catch mink I'm going to have you build be some. LOL

But with the trap that close to the bait and the back of the box are the jaws going to hit something? May be a longer box with 5" slot depth.

Great job.

PS Do you think that the over hang will also tend to shorten up the coons reach?

Beav- I had to make the slot 5" , overall length 14" on the one shown. A you said, need room for bait and spring clearance- didn't want to blow the back door off lol.

I like the overhangs on my weasel boxes for snow and I believe it might help shorten the reach window on the coons. I'll make (6) of them and see what happens.

Very nice!

Keep the black numbers big on the wood so the Beav can read 'em.

Good advice Muskrat- I also added this for the smart ones.

What does my eye sight have anything to do with this. By the way my eye sight Is just fine.

Rat you should send that resolution off to several counties so It gets a bit more exposer. Don't send It to me since It's going to get voted down by the bunny huggers In Dane county.

At least I know how to design something. I just needed Eagleye to build It.

Now the test begins which you should be participating In.

I talked to a buddy In The CC he said the resolution doesn't have a snow balls chance In ===.

Actually he said he would shop It around.

Know lets catch a few mink, even one would be a start.

I think that the front hole should be just about flush with the bottom of the box. I think that would make entry easier. Maybe a U shaped hole would even maker entry more inviting.
Or I guess you could shove the box down In the snow so the opening would be at snow level. Or ramp snow up to the hole. Entry has to be as easy as possible.

One possible concern with back trap placement would be the reverse notch makes trap fire away from animal. Don’t know if that makes a difference?

Nice work eagle eye !

Still can’t figure out the difference between dead mink or dead coon?

I'll mock one up with a "U" shaped door