Beav the next time you come with a idea ,,,,
Could it include heavier gauge steel to make them out of.

Curios how long of a chain you were using on your set the coyote pulled.

I wouldn't trust an 18" long rebar in anything less than frozen ground no matter the set.

I never got Into the commercial part of It. Mine are made out 14gauge steel.

15" Chained Super stakes for Agg. ground, 1/2 double rebar for gravel rocky soils with a JC Conner chestnut. I always pull the super stakes unless they're froze in then I open the S hook and mark them and pull later. The right Puller makes it much easier. I tried fangs, didn't get along well, IMO super stakes drive easier. There is no one do all anchor, for all terrain and soil types.

Agreed^^^^^^^^

I use a single rebar stake or a drag, I run long chains (30 inch) on my traps and don't have any trouble with stakes being pumped out

The beauty of disposables Is any one can build them and you don't have to go out and buy a welder. LOL

Who doesn't have a welder? I guess those guys just slap the cable stakes together and carry them in their purse to the sets. LOL

Half of my rebar stakes use a nut with no welding, some were built in the '80s and have never needed any maintenance. The other half use a nut that was welded and are no difference in using. I don't like washer tops, because they are hard to pull, when the stake is bent.

I'm betting more Tman members don't have a welder then do. And I'm betting It's a substantial number.

Welder ain't needed I used to weld for living and my stakes ain't welded.

I know your system works but Welding Is easier and a lot less work.

But for the most part I'm going to use disposables because they are free and light weight and easy to haul around. And they hold well In most types of ground. Ad for me they are totally disposable.

I've got some awesome friends that weld cheap, agree that the nuts are way better than washers. A pair of vice grips on the nut, twist pull and go.. Trust you'll pull the disposable when a farmer gets one in his tire..

Why would anyone foolishly argue against the Beav’s method that works and is free?

Since I don’t get any staking method for free I use a mixture of what works best for the situation.

Except for muskrat traps, all of my foothold trap and dog proof trap chains end with a 3/16” quick link. I have ready to use double stake swivels and single stake swivels which have 3-5 links of American welded straight link chain attached. I always carry a wrench and screwdriver to tighten the quick links - finger tight is not sufficient.

220 and 330 bodygrip traps all have a chain or cable extension that ends with a single stake swivel although many times they are wired to a tree.

Foothold and bodygrip muskrat trap chains end with a Hagz bracket for use with a fiberglass rod.

On water sets for beaver I use long rebar T stakes at the shore with a 1/8” cable drowning wire and a weight.

On water sets for mink and raccoon I use medium length rebar T stakes.

On baited cage traps for raccoon I use 24” rebar T stakes pushed through the cage.

On land sets I usually pre-drill for stakes because it saves my shoulders and wrists the extra pain caused by pounding in stakes.

I use PCS disposable stakes where I have no intention to recover them - usually for dog proof traps.

I use super fang chain stakes with cable attached to the fin where I plan to recover them.

I use cross staked 1/2” x 18” rebar where I plan to recover them. I weld a nut on the top of the rebar because washers get bent too easily.

When land trapping, I always have handy a 46” stake puller because I do not leave stakes of any sort in agricultural fields. The puller is very stout and pulls anything I want to lift. Sometimes I use an auger to drill next to stakes to ease pulling them.

I do not anchor any trap other than a 220 or 330 by wiring onto or around a tree. I trap on private land and many places are certified tree farms. A damaged tree would lose permission at that farm and maybe others.

I talked to several farmers where I trap and I showed them my anchors and all of them said they saw no problem with me leaving them In the ground. They said they were more concerned with re bar stakes being left behind.
But with all these no till farming practices I don't see much of a problem with anchors being left In the ground. So far I have never been run off any ground I'm trapping so I must be doing Ok.
Getting stakes out of the ground no matter If they are set up with nuts or washers. It's pretty easy to snap the vise grips on the stake It's self and twist It out of the ground.

Can you actually trap without one.

I think it would be a terribly hard thing to do.

I can get more of them in my purse then you can get rebar in yours.

I have always wondered if leaving cable or disposal stakes would ever cause issues in messing up farm equipment.

Mac

There may be a problem with using them where they harvest potato's since they are digging Into the earth to harvest them..

If they get plowed up they just lay on the ground or get buried deeper. In most harvest cases the cutter head never gets any where near the ground.

But If you have any doubt remove your anchors.

Fellas

Up to this point I have used rebar and drags for my traps. This coming year I find myself in a situation. I will be trapping on public grounds. I am scared of having a trap stolen. Is there a staking system that holds in the ground better to thwart 2 legged predators from taking the trap?