Hey Guys,


I’m looking to start making some drags this off season. Is there anyway you guys could post some pictures of what works on your coyote line? Thank you.

I like the sabertooth style.

welcome aboard,what part of PA??

Lycoming county here. Welcome......jk

Chain is more important to me than drag- drag can be anything that keeps the chain on the ground and gets it tangled in bushes: a tree limb, fence post, steel grapple, car part, etc.- but chain needs to be about 10' long and heavy enough not to bounce off the ground.

If you have bears I'd stake all traps. Then the bigger ones will dismantle the trap and be gone.

They will carry a drag for a ride....or a climb.

Thanks for the welcome, guys. I’m from Westmoreland county pcr2. I’ve made a few with window weights, but, the welds aren’t strong on the old cast. Have yet to catch anything on them yet. Does anyone use the basic 3/8” 2 prong drags that F&T sells? They seem awful light weight to hold a coyote. But I’m new to coyote trapping. Just curious to see some home made ones and what works for you guys. Thanks

Welcome I bought a scat load of those 3/8 drags on here a lot cheaper then I could make they are lightweight and not what I would make but i'd like to call it thrifty when I use them they will be on a long chain in woodsy country and hooked to brush or saplings

I use drags 95% of the time because I set old logging rds or woods trails, so am able to PRE-HOOK to saplings or logs. I don't have to look any further than chains length.
I don't have time to hunt for anything, PLUS, the scent left by a catch attracts others.
I use 6' of chain. This makes easy, dispatching a "climber" like a bobcat or coon no more than head high.
I learned from other folks nightmares, that I don't want to have to climb a neighboring tree to dispatch a critter 10 ft up a tree, THEN, climb to unstick that critter.
The rare times I set in a field I stake em down.
Pre-hooking allows using 1 lb mini drags,too, less to carry and make/buy.
Commercially made "fox grapples" are perfect for this.
My site shows the 2 pound drags I make for most folks.

Thanks John, those look nice.

trarjohn, interesting info. Thanks

Bobcat tags are hard to come by here. I'd hate to have to try to release an incidental bobcat that's 6 to 10' up a tree.

Not trying to be controversial, but was wondering why not just use cable?

many of my drags have been converted to cable, as a matter of fact.

Might look at the drag for sale on the trap shed right now. Made by Andy Wieser out of two old horse shoes and a piece of flat stock. I would have put the shoes on opposite sides of the flat stock .

Here's one of my fox drags I make. Sent some of the larger coyote versions I make to a friend who did 70 odd yotes this season and he like em so much he wants 2 dozen !

I'll be more than happy to give you measurements and picture if you wanna try to make your own

Good video Wolfy. Thanks.

I like the concept of drags but I have a potential concern that I wonder if anyone has noticed: if trying to release an incidental catch, I'd imagine it might be hard to safely get to the animal to release it, with such a potentially large catch circle.

Nice drag wolf dog. Thanks for the replies.

I bought a bunch of these from Rich Kasper. Work pretty good

Best I've used are JC Conner's tracker plus. Both prongs dig in.

Drags are not a good choice in every situation. Need brush, not trees, to tangle good.


Cables are a poor substitute for chain. They don't lie on the ground like chain. Makes for a fainter trial. They will get all kinked and twisted and then they are hard to hide. Don't waste your time and money on cable. Buy chain and you won't have problems

https://www.minntrapprod.com/MB-Trailblazer-Drag/productinfo/MBDRAG-1/

bought two dozen of these at a convention. they work good too. don't forget to buy chain. cable=problems