Thought I would share a few "pointers" for those that keep asking about under ice beaver trapping. Now I know that all situations are different, but following a few tips here will at least give you a good idea where to place your sets when you go into an area "cold". This pond (small cranberry marsh)that I am using below for reference, I have never seen before 3 days ago, so I am setting using what I call the "breaks method".

Here is the pond from a distance:

As soon as I hit the ice I look for what I call "breaks" in the vegetation. By "breaks", I am talking about openings in between the vegetation. When the water is open these are still there and the beaver is using them by swimming in between them. It is a lot more obvious when the water is open. The beaver are traveling the same openings EXCEPT they are traveling beneath the ice now. Below are a few examples of "breaks":






Something else to keep in mind :

These are the same areas you are walking through naturally as you walk the ice. Remember the "path of least resitance" theory? The beaver are taking these same routes you are walking, with the exception they are under the ice.

Here is the result of setting one of the "breaks" shown in the picture. This was set using a baited 330 conibear.







Here's a few more examples from another pond on the same day:







The next time you are on the ice start looking for these openings or "breaks". For those of you that are just getting into under ice beaver, it will come to you more naturally as time goes by.
You can set them "blind" with 330's or snares or with batied sets. Either way, the beaver are there.

Awesome advice. thanks for taking the time to post.

Excellent pics and information

Great post HR. Now where's my chisel?
Coalman

You'll notice in the pics how my dog naturally follows these opening or "breaks" as he walks out ahead of me. You'll also see that with fox and coyotes walking the ice. You could literally trap coyote or fox right above your beaver sets.

Good pics and thanks for taking the time to post.

awsome post

Excellent psot, Lots of good info.
Thanks

Awesome info. Lets hope I never have to use it here in NC. LOL. Hopefully I will when I get back to Oregon. Thanks

Huntersridge, what is the optimum depth that you want your 330 in your baited pole set? It appears your trap is set pretty far off the bottom, is it set just under the ice?

Thanks

beetle,

Yes the trap is failry close to the ice. I like to leave it about a foot or so beneath the ice. Most times beavers are swimming right up close to the bottom of the ice anyways.

Great post Huntersridge! one of the best I have seen on here. What do you use for bait? How often do you check the traps? The beaver here in my area love poplar and we have plenty of it.

Barry

Thanks for a very informative post. Good luck on your line, and keep us updated with some pics of the sets that connect.

arg1,

I use whatever is in the area. If the poplar is numerous, I use that. If maple is the predominant wood, then I use that.Just so long as they see the fresh uneaten wood. Dogwood also works very well. I have used everything from Poplar to Pine and it does not seem to matter. It is a free meal to them.

Great pictures. Thanks for sharing.

Here's another example:
Again, you can set these "blind" (due to the fact the beaver are already swimming through) or you can make baited sets here.

Very well done - excellent post!

Great pics and thoughts.
Thanks for the tips and excellent reading.

Great post Hutersridge. Very informative. Kre - I can't speak for HR, but a lot of times when you set close to the house you'll take the little ones. Generally, young ones don't seem to travel nearly as far as the adults, at least that's what I've found. It's amazing how far an adult beaver will travel under the ice.

It's illegal to trap at houses in some states.

Great post HR, thanks for the effort.

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thinks for the info
how would you go about this on a frozen creek

Thanks for the post, great information! As a rookie I really appreciate people like you so freely sharing their hard-earned knowledge and experience. Keep up the great work!

Excellent Post!

Kre,

remember I am "cold-rolling" into this pond. I have never been here before ice and snow covered it. I could spend time chopping holes looking for the den entrance or putting in baited sets. I put 3 baited pole sets in the "breaks" and had 3 beaver in 1 check (checked them 3 days later). Now some of these beaver were already traveling these "breaks" and would hit the 330's anyways, but the bait add a little more incentive to slow them down and approach the trap better. I took the 3 beaver and left. If I put in 3-5 sets and each location and take 3 beaver out, I move on. Unless I am doing nusiance work (which I am and ADC trapper also) I do not like to clean out a colony. I like to leave seed. Plus by taking the "cream" of the crop, your numbers will definately go up.

Beav Trapper,

Yes you are right! You hit the nail right on the head, so to speak. The baited sets will take up to 3 beaver without worrying about blocking up a run with 1 or 2 330's. The numbers definately work better this way (for me). Not to say that I don't trap runs, but every area is different.

shaneb,

How deep and how wide is this frozen "creek"?? Most beaver will be traveling the EDGES of the rivers or creeks. They will hug right up next to the bank in most situations. By putting in baited sets near the EDGES, you are presenting this meal by putting in their line of sight (travel).

nice!

what are you useing for bate on the 330 trigger for the pole set. Thanks Hank

very good post.thanx for the great info

Sorry Kre. Thanks for the info. Wish I still lived in MI.

Good Job HR Thanks

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When you set in these breaks/runs, do you need to stake off the space on either side of the trap to guide the beaver into it? This would seem to be some real ice chopping work. Or is this where the bait comes it.

Woofman,
You can bait them or blind set them. Instead of hopping the hole bigger, I just angle any fencing (if I am using it) through the same hole. I have always believed (an still do, even though others may disagree) that the opening of the coni is enough of a guide to drwa them through it.

ttt

good post very infomative info and tips for our beaver trappers now go get em and post some pics i like tyhe pics

Always figure if you hung it susupended, when the beaver sets it off it would push it away from the beaver maybe I am wrong. Do you guys get good behind the head catches, just curious was thinking about trying it this year.

hear you go.

should have this archived real good post.time well spent for advise .

Awesome pics! Good job.

Iowa,

Yes I wire the bait sticks to the triggers most times but I also use a lot of "zip ties". These are much faster.

Good info awsome pics!

Here's a few more pics. They are the same areas you are trapping during the open water. When you come into an area for the first time and it is frozen over, it may be harder to locate these for some of you that are just starting out. Again, keep in mind the beaver are traveling the same areas that they would any other time of year, except now it's under ice. ANY opening between trees, brush, cattails or any other vegetation will most likely be a beaver run.

How deep is the water under the ice where you are trappin?
And, do you you have any tips on trappin/snaren in a place where the ice isn't frozen enough to walk on?