Crimson Talons. The company went out of Biz years ago, but you can still find them on Ebay and a few other places. Just no replacement blades anymore.

Yep..I know of a huge ranch that don't allow a 7MM for elk shoots...

Yep..Just smoked a bull Monday...41 yards..63.5lbs..100 grain muzzy's..328 grain..Black Eagle Spartan w/30 grain insert..shot quartering away thru the heart out one shoulder for a "Pass Through" elk made it 50 yards..if that..same bow I'm selling..

My thoughts on the mechs vs fixed. You can shoot a mech accurately from a (slightly) out of tune bow and get them to hit where your field points do. If a fixed head doesnt hit where your field points do then your bow is out of tune. So you can cheat with mechs if you dont know how or just cant your bow tuned precisely. The best idea is to spend the time to properly tune your bow and your overall accuracy will be improved so you can start stretching your max effective range if you wish. When i shot spitfires they were always accurate and deadly and i thought they were the ticket for sure. Then i wanted to try some fixed heads and realized my setup wasnt tuned properly. So i did my research and worked with my bow until i tuned it properly and began using fixed heads. In the process I learned alot about how the bow worked with the sight, rest, nock placement, and proper selection of arrow spine and length. It helped make me a better shot also. I recommend everyone spend the time to tune their bow no matter which head you choose to shoot. I do believe someone that just slaps a mech head on a bow they havent properly learned to cheat their hunting arrows to hit where the target arrows do is just lazy and not doing themselves or the game they hunt any favors. It will probably end up with a bad shot on a deer. If a bow is tuned it is alot more forgiving to torqueing the bow in an awkward shooting position and lots of other variables. Also learn about arrow length and spine and head weight and how they all work together to make an accurate shot. There are plenty of accurate charts online and its a pretty simple process.
Some things i learned about arrows. I had better luck shooting a heavier arrow vs a lighter faster arrow. The extra mass will result in deeper penetration and most hits that dont square up on a solid bone will generally be complete pass throughs and that really saves in the long run cause almost every deer that ran off with an arrow broke it when it fell. I like my arrows to be sticking in the dirt where i shot them and the deer will leave a better blood trail that way if they do get out of sight which is fairly uncommon. Always make sure your arrow length puts your broadhead well in front of your bow hand at full draw. I have seen many pics of accidents using short arrows and especially the old overdraw rests.
Since i started using fixed broadheads I have been able to reuse the broadheads several times as long as they dont get bent or broken. I know magnus and montecs can be resharpened fairly easily. I have heard people say you should never shoot a deer with a resharpened broadhead cause you can never get them as sharp as factory. That may be true to an extent but I have resharpened and inspected broadheads ive killed deer with and killed several more deer using the same arrow and head with complete pass throughs and never had a problem. The problem i found with mech heads is the blades are alot thinner and bend and dull easily and i couldnt resharpen them worth a hoot. That resulted in buying replacement blades which arent really cheap. I have never had a NAP spitfire mech head fail but have seen pics from other hunters using other brands that claimed had failed to open on deer. Lots of variables that could cause a mech head to fail but i think its rare especially with all the proven designs these days. A fixed head cant fail to open so there is that.
Hope this helps someone, most archers probably know all this but there it is anyway. Of course the vast majority of this is about compound bows so if you are a traditional archer do your thing cause you are a better shot than i am anyway LOL!

You know your stuff and thanks for sharing that.
I like a lighter arrow (400) but your right in my opinion about a heaver arrow. When it comes to bow/arrows I have a hard time to change because I know what I have and have confidence in what I use. I also know that there is better and more efficient equipment that would do a great job also.
I also should update my Outback Mathews bow but I know the bow well and has been a great bow for me. I like it so well I have two and also extra limbs and cams.

Mathews outback...lol. thats high tech compared to my mathews FX circa 2003. I been wanting to upgrade for years, but this bow just keeps killing deer so its hard to see what i need to upgrade to. Im using gold tip ted nugent series arrows (they are a little heavier) and are zebra striped which helps find them once you climb out of the stand and look around going where the heck was that deer standing lol. Im using 125gr magnus stingers regular and buzzcut 2 and 4 blade. I have a few of each and they can be used interchangeably with no shift of poi. They also used to have a killer lifetime warranty im not sure if thats still a thing i havent had to send in any busted heads in a few years.

When im in practice with my old FX i am comfortable shooting out to 50 yds. I have killed deer out to 60. For a basic hunting bow i think that is more than ample. Majority of my shots are in the 20-30yd range. Until that bow breaks and i cant repair it I doubt i will ever upgrade.

Swacker, 100 gr . Wicked heads

John

1 1/4" cut is too small? You need to work on shot placement then. JMO.

Hey Snowy, I shot a doe last nite. Head was buried in a pumpkin
I think it was called a Muzzy?

Good thread to deflect on the bet I called you out on. Or did you not see that?


You sure seem to come up with some generic topics, yanno, ones that have been hashed over before.
Nice blood trail though, was that your 400 the kill?

Great blade

Yep, but never seen one fly straight at high speeds.

Bucksnbears I've never had an issue. I'm assuming you're using a compound possibly on the plains?

Not that you should they make floating inserts so that the broadhead doesn't rotate and plane out in the open.

Pretty cool idea.

100 grain thunderheads

X2 what Ambush said. I did happen to score an unopened package of three 100 grain spitfire at an estate sale recently. I walked past them once and did not realize what they were as the package was upside down....at any rate, I paid 4 dollars. Never used them before but I'll have them for backup..

Never been in a camp where a fixed blade ain't allowed
Hi Snowy, you awake?

I use these with great sucsess

Went from Slick Trick to Rage Trypan. 100 grain. Both great heads. I have recovered every single deer I've shot with a Rage broadhead. I've stepped off the distance traveled after impact and the average is 45 yards. And there usually is a spray painted carpet of bloody leaves to follow. Check out the entrance hole....

Joe, I could give a crap less on an entrance hole., How bout an EXIT hole?

Nice looking buck Joe...

Need an entrance hole before you get an exit hole...