Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638618
10/13/19 08:28 AM
10/13/19 08:28 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,835 Pa
Wright Brothers
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trapper
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I think Owens Corning has a FAQ page on their site. I have called them for assistance in the past.
I wish I had done blown in but hind sight should coulda.
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638619
10/13/19 08:29 AM
10/13/19 08:29 AM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,159 chelsea,wi
keets
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I would put the 1/2" foam on the inside, under the sheetrock...shoulda sprayed foam in the wall and been done
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638622
10/13/19 08:32 AM
10/13/19 08:32 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,717 Maine
Mac
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Question for all t-man carpenters. I'm currently in the process of building my first house. I'm doing as much of the work on it myself as I can. I want it to be very well insulated because I live in a very cold climate. Right now the house is insulated with Kraft faced insulation. Would I be safe putting 1/2 inch thermax over that and then osb? Or would the double vapor barrier on top of eachother be an issue? I have house wrap on the outside currently. Thanks for any help. To avoid trouble I would check with the supplier and manufacturer. Got to give you credit for thinking this through. A lot of folks would not. I you do something that does not work out you will have a heck of a time getting anyone to stand behind your product but at least you are trying to think ahead. Mac
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638629
10/13/19 08:38 AM
10/13/19 08:38 AM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 9,295 Northern MN
Osky
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When still in that business we tore into many one hundred plus year old houses and the best preserved were always the ones with 3/4" boards nailed horizontaly outside the studs and maybe that old tarpaper type material over that then siding as a finish. Point being there is a lot to be said for letting a house breath particularly these days with the poorly kiln dried materials on the market. The only mold issues I recall were caused of an actual rain leak, not general humidity conditions.
Osky
"A womans heart is the hardest rock the Almighty has put on this earth, and I can find no sign on it" Jabless in Minnesota www.SureDockusa.com
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638700
10/13/19 10:07 AM
10/13/19 10:07 AM
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,320 vermont
vermontster
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I agree with Osky. I would use Roxul ridged board either 1-2” it breathes and doesn’t require any vapor barrier. I would also use a mesh underneath it to help remove any moisture like that used underneath cement board siding. Added insulation in the attic and use flashing properly around the windows and doors, use kick out flashing where needed or you will rott your walls. Flashing incorrectly is one of the biggest problems that needs to be addressed. I recommend you look up how to properly install flashing or suffer the consequences later. Plus If possible use big overhangs to keep moisture off the walls as much as possible. No vegetation within a foot of the house the walls need air flow to dry out
The bitterness of poor quality last a lot longer than the sweetness of low price
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Osky]
#6638740
10/13/19 11:15 AM
10/13/19 11:15 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,717 Maine
Mac
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trapper
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When still in that business we tore into many one hundred plus year old houses and the best preserved were always the ones with 3/4" boards nailed horizontaly outside the studs and maybe that old tarpaper type material over that then siding as a finish. Point being there is a lot to be said for letting a house breath particularly these days with the poorly kiln dried materials on the market. The only mold issues I recall were caused of an actual rain leak, not general humidity conditions.
Osky You are correct. Too many tight houses in the last several years that cannot breath.
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Jacks]
#6638741
10/13/19 11:17 AM
10/13/19 11:17 AM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137 Maine
Winterprime
OP
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OP
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Maine
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you should not use paper faced with the Thermax over that, I would remove the paper, I also would question why the Osb? I am assuming your referring to the interior ? If this is your finish fine, if it’s not I would omit it and use 1” thermax and then tape all joints a;d nail heads this is now your vapor barrier Yes the interior. I was thinking of putting osb over the thermax and then nailing my tongue and groove pine to the osb. Maybe I should use strapping and nail the pine to that?
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Jacks]
#6638750
10/13/19 11:30 AM
10/13/19 11:30 AM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 137 Maine
Winterprime
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OP
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I fit was me I would do this if not too late, if windows are set it may not work out
Insulate stud cavities and then put 2” on outside of all walls and buck out windows And doors
If it’s too late, put on 1”. Thermax, and then nail tg over it into your studs. The osb only helps if your doing small pieces and can’t nail into studs
I don’t agree with others, you should make your house as tight as possible and make sure it’s 100 waterproof
Then use an air exchange to help remove moisture
Tight houses are only problems when they are not watertight or not exchanging air Thanks Jack's, unfortunately the windows are set and siding is on the outside already. I was planning on vertical pine so nailing to studs is out of the question
Last edited by Winterprime; 10/13/19 11:31 AM.
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638752
10/13/19 11:34 AM
10/13/19 11:34 AM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,780 St. Cloud, MN
trapperkeck
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BTW, modern housewrap is designed to breathe similar to Gore- Tex, so it is fine to have housewrap and a moisture barrier behind the finished interior wall. What do you plan to finish the inside of your exterior walls with?
Last edited by trapperkeck; 10/13/19 11:35 AM.
"The voice of reason!"
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638763
10/13/19 11:59 AM
10/13/19 11:59 AM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,780 St. Cloud, MN
trapperkeck
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St. Cloud, MN
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I am assuming it has been wired for electric and I missed the part about the walls being T&G pine. Gonna be a pain moving all the electrical boxes if you start furring out the walls. I guess that part is up to you. Plenty of insulation in the attic and a good, efficient furnace will do you more good than anything. Using housewrap tape around all doors and windows and caulking anything else that might cause an air leak will seal it up just fine. I don't like Kraft face insulation because it has a tendency to put pressure against the back side of sheetrock causing nail pops. It can also cause your T & G to work away from studs or not get nailed tight, especially if you are using finish nails to nail it off.
Last edited by trapperkeck; 10/13/19 12:00 PM.
"The voice of reason!"
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Re: Question for carpentry guys
[Re: Winterprime]
#6638766
10/13/19 12:07 PM
10/13/19 12:07 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,780 St. Cloud, MN
trapperkeck
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I missed the part where you planned to sheath the inside of the exterior walls with osb. If that was the plan, I would opt for white17's plan instead.
"The voice of reason!"
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