Pros and cons about them. Anybody have success with them or do the negatives outweigh the positives. I am thinking about getting one to reduce constant jumping for my new pup who is now 4 months old.

Used one on my cur, just about the only way we could train him. Start low and work up until they notice. Sometimes he's more stubborn and I have to turn it up. He's learned that if he doesn't hear the beep, it's not on. And then he won't listen, little bugger. I'd use one again in a heartbeat. It's all about using it right, and not abusing it.

Used one for two days on my blue heeler. After that for a few weeks I would just show her the collar. Worked for 15 years. I became the lead dog.

Thanks. My pup is a mountain cur. Any recommendations on collars.

Have fun with that cur. This was my first, and according to my wife, my last. He's as stubborn as a mule and too smart for his own good.

I have a sport dog now, one with a 2 mile range. I get 3-4 years out of a collar, but I don't use it hard either.

What k snow said dont abuse it. I have a sport dog i use with my english setter. Some dogs are more sensitive/responsive than others. I have never had mine turned past setting 1 for her usually just use the beep setting.

Train your pup by leash first and correct bad behavior whenever possible when the pup is in reach. Use the collar only when the dog needs correcting at a distance. It will help with them with behaving without needing the e-collar. It’s pretty easy to get lazy and soon the dog only listens with the e-collar.

Anti barking collars don't work

Thanks for the tips. My main thing is to stop the dog from jumping. I took him to a puppy trainer and she showed me a technique to place the dog on its back every time it jumps and don’t let it up until it calms down. That was two months ago and now the dog thinks it’s a game Every time I do this technique, he gets up and immediately jumps.

Collars are for when they are out of reach in my opinion. If the problem is he's jumping on people he's very much within reach. You will know when the punishment is severe enough when he quits jumping. Until then your discipline isnt consistent enough or severe enough.

My dog wares one every day. Not all day, just depending on what is going on. He is 14 now and I feel part of the reason he is alive yet is because of the shock collar. If I shock him he comes to me. That helps keep him out of trouble no matter how far he is. I have a Dogtra brand collar. It is the second one for him in 13 + years. He slipped the first one and I never found it. I always run him with his collar loose enough he can slip it if he needs too.

For jumping, I have found that stepping on their hind feet when they jump on you usually helps. With my stubborn cur, it eventually took a firm knee to his chest.

I agree with the collars being for distance. I would much rather correct him by touch. However, when off leash, he knows my range. And he is always testing his limits, every second of every day. Nine years so far.

I have used the Sportdogs for a number of years but the correction you are trying to achieve shouldn't come from the collar. When the dog jumps up on you give him a good knee to the chest. Pat your hands on your chest and invite the dog to jump up and do it again. The dog will relate this and stop when it knows what the punishment will be. It WILL go away. An electric collar is to correct the dog in the field or for correct an action when the dog is a distance from you not for it to obey everyday obedience commands. You will ruin a dog fast if YOU use the collar incorrectly. For some that have said all they do is show the dog the collar that tells me that the collar was use incorrectly and the dog is now afraid of not only the collar but the handlers as well. Most times when this happens the dog never feels free to use it's judgement in the field. This also hampers the dogs ability to perform at is true potential.

I say this from experience because a friend made this mistake with his English setter. We hunted behind that dog and it didn't seem like the dog would venture to far when it caught scent. I told him that it appeared that the dog was more concerned with him that the birds. I told him that I thought his dog was missing birds for fear of being corrected for getting to far. Two weeks later I proved this fact to him at the game farm. We had 5 birds planted. I kept my lab at my side as we watched his dog work. On two occasions his dog looked birdie but when we were travelling in a direction that was not in line with where the bird was the dog pulled off and hunted on without pointing the bird. When this happened I let my dog free and watched and let him hunt and range the way he wanted and within 50 yds flushed the bird that was missed by his dog

E collars can be an invaluable tool but only if the dog has a basic understanding of the command. If he doesn't, he won't connect the correction with the disobedience. As to jumping on you a well placed knee, enough to send him really sprawling, has worked the best for me, especially for a real hard head. With a softer dog simply turning 90 degrees to the jump usually works well with time. I really don't like to use the collar when the dog is within reach. Don't want to discourage him from coming to you or touching you or you touching him. At present I am using a Sport Dog, good for a half mile. It has worked very well for me. I started with a Tritronics 20+ years ago. It was huge and heavy. I also won't use any model on a dog until I've tried it on myself. Folks that say their use is cruel are always really surprised when I use it on the palm of my hand and don't get knocked on my butt.

If the dog is on a leash, just step on the leash so the dog and not jump. If a dog goes to jump on me I tell then NO is a very loud voice and point at them. In most cases they stay down, if the try it again I do the same thing. As your friends to do the same thing. It has to be done EVERY time they want to jump. JMO

My hound was a stubborn pup. Finally got a sport dog track and train system which has a 9 mile range. It was advanced at the time. Still being it out once in awhile when she is acting up. With my system there's beep vibration and shock I first would give a command if she didn't listen after a few times I would beep it and repeat the command if she continued I would vibrate it, repeat command if she's still stubborn she gets shocked on low then increase the level.

She learned right away with it. Do not over use it.

If you plan on hunting your cur andsince your considering a shock collar you might as well invest in a track and train system. It is well worth the investment. You can find used ones online. Garmin and sport dog are about the same price and similar features now. I believe they both have a 7 or 9 mile range

I used Tri-Tronics back in the day and they were the top of line collar at that time. One thing you do not want to do is strap a collar on the dog and start zapping him/her the first fifteen minutes he or she is wearing it. He or she will do two things...they'll learn quickly that the shock is coming from the collar and they're apt to refuse to move the second time you strap the collar on. If it comes with a dummy collar, have the dog wear that for a week before you ever hit it with the real thing.

Start off with the lower settings and move up if the dog requires it. Some dogs will howl with just a tickle and some will wonder if that's all you got when you hit them with 220. Used correctly, they're a great tool. They'll ruin a dog if you don't think it through.

Good advice above. Paul D. is spot on! Dog has to know what it’s doing wrong before E-collar is used. I’ve ran Tritronics since 1998 great collars.

Great tool if you know how to use it and how to introduce it to the dog, google tri-tronics 3 step introduction.

More Dogs have been ruined by a shock collar, than have been saved by one! That said, READ THE BOOK THAT COMES WITH IT! It will tell you how and when to use it. Make sure to have it wear the dummy collar 24/7 for a week BEFORE using the shock collar. You must catch them doing something wrong and then shock them right then, A dog can't understand retro punishment.