Just thought i would give an update for anyone that was watching my other threads on this trip down traditional lane. I ordered a new dozen gold tip traditional arrows in 600 spine. Got them in and got some 4" feathers fletched on a few. I took some and fletched them with and without arrow wraps (i like using wraps for spotting lost arrows) and kept some bare shafts with and without wraps. I have 100 and 125gr field points to switch back and forth to see if less or more tip weight tightened the groups. So I started with these new arrows full length and started some bare shaft tuning. I have been playing with the dynamic spine calculator and knew about where i needed to end up but i took it one step at a time before i started cutting these arrows down. I had some nock height issues and spine issues to begin with so i started trying to fix one thing at a time. To sum it up I ended up with these 600 spine shafts at 29" with wraps and 3 4" feathers. Using 125gr tips which was the ultimate goal of this i got them all shooting tight enough that they are one group or pretty close, they might be a tiny bit weak yet but the groups were as tight as i can shoot. The fletched arrows fly as straight as i can track them with my eye. So now I cut down 6 arrows to 29" and im fletching the last of them now. Gonna leave the other half dozen stock. Gonna practice with these in the next long while until i can shoot groups tight enough to fine tune a little more. Cool thing is this arrow recipe is exactly where the dynamic spine calculator said i needed to be. So practice practice practice is my next step, but i think these arrows are shooting good enough i can accomplish something with them.

After talking to the guy at the local bow shop he told me about gold tip having a weight system (F.A.C.T.) that screws stackable weights in the back of a seated insert going from the nock end of the arrows. My old arrows are too stiff for certain but again playing with the spine calculator looks like i can add 70gr (50 and 20gr weights) to the inserts and have the dynamic spine of the old arrows correct. Once Im certain i have these new arrows tuned properly im gonna order some of the gold tip weights and fix all the old arrows i have. The problem with them is the inserts were installed with gorilla super glue and they dont come out... ever. All the new arrows i bought some hot melt glue so they can be taken out later on if a change is needed.

Soak the ends in acetone. They should come right out.

Possum, sounds like you have a great grip on it. Imo, to shoot primitive you have 4 components to the arrow, knock, shaft, fletching, and point. It's a matter of fine tuning those to gain accuracy when you can do your job. Length of shaft for your draw, length of fletching and so on. You started at point zero and worked up from there and now your getting her dialed in, kudos!

Here's some that I made.

i like that helical fletching on the middle arrow. I have the AAE fletch III and it only does 1 degree offset straight clamp. I think later on I may buy a helical jig.

I tried that. Tried heat to the point it destroyed the carbon arrow. Tried freezing. Nothing worked.

I have to give all the credit to my ex father in law for getting me going on arrow making. I used his old Bitzenburger and it took forever to do a dz lol. I can't shoot my flat bow anymore but always tickled when others take it up. Like your threads!

One method that has worked for me to get inserts out of a graphite shaft is take a drill bit slightly smaller than the ID of the shaft, put it in from the nock end and give it a good fling over your head. Works pretty good on Gorilla Glue. Watch what direction you fling it. And don't soak the shafts in acetone as it will attack the epoxy resins that make up the shaft itself. If I remember correctly the 500 and stiffer shafts measure .246 ID. Your 600 I think are smaller. Also being a tiny bit weak will bite you when you put a broadhead on the end instead a field point. Tiny bit stiff is always good. Weight on the front softens as you already know and weight to the nock end will make it stiffer. Your wrap might be just about right. All my graphite and aluminum shafts get wraps. Helps with gluing fletching on. Cedar gets aniline wood dye, gasket lacquer, cresting with acrylics, and more gasket lacquer to seal it all.

Seriously,don't mess around with behind the head weights.They are a joke.The farther behind the end of the shaft,the weight isn't ,the less influence it has on dynamic spine.Increase weight in FRONT of the shaft.This can be done with broadhead weight or insert weight.Weight in front of the shaft has way more influence on tune and gives you way more FOC which affects effeciency of penetration.Only 50 years experience here so take it all with a grain of salt.

The gold tip weights screw into the back of their inserts. Wouldnt that be the same as using a heavier insert? The heavy inserts i have seen have been long and made of brass.

The shafts that have the super glued in inserts are 500 spine shafts. I may give the drill bit a go and see if i can knock one loose. With the new shafts im trying to work a little at a time towards a tune. For now im gonna have to practice more where i can make a good tight consistent group and then check the tune again.

NO,NO and NO! I swear,I don't know why I keep trying to help people here.

Taxi, sometimes you just need to let them learn on their own. Just like you and I did, though I still haven't bought into the extreme FOC thing yet. For now I like it around 15% or so. Right now I'm using a breasted cedar shaft, 5/16 at the nock, 23/64 in the middle, and 11/32 at the point. A 125 Woodsman or Snuffer is glued on the front and fletched with 4 1/2" low cut banana.

Im just asking questions and gathering as much information as i can. Not trying to argue with anyone. I can be stubborn but im reading and rereading everything everyone posts and taking it all into consideration.

You want the truth about shooting primitive Possum? Ya got a bow, a string and some wood to fling. Your on the right path and doing it right!

Possum, don't bother with the screw in weights and weight tubes or string trimmer line or etc, etc. They all create their own problems, problems you don't need. If I want more weight up front in a hollow shaft I just use heavier heads, brass or steel inserts, or brass broadhead adapters. To get some better advice we need to know poundage on your bow at 28". Your true draw length, type/make of bow, cut to center, beyond center, before center, type of string.

recurve Bow is 45 @28" My draw length is 27" it is cut past center -.125 but with the strike plate the measurment is -.10 or thats as close as i could measure with my calipers. string is b50 dacron.

The new arrows are flying good right now. I need to practice so thats as close as i can tune the arrows until I get better. The original problem was the arrows i already had were too stiff and were launching sideways. I can shoot the new arrows alot more consistent but i still pull shots pretty often but i can almost call them at release. Im making progress so im happy.

For an aluminum shaft I would look at a 1916 with a 125 point. A 2016 with a 150 might work also, though it might be too stiff. In graphite your 600 with 125, maybe a 150. I personally like a heavier arrow. Having said that, at your poundage (about 42# at your 27") I would certainly look hard at a 1916 with a good two blade broadhead.

You may be able to remove the insert by screwing a long blunt or other tip into the arrow, carefully heating the blunt with a torch while at the same time pulling/twisting so as soon as the heat has warmed the glue enough (maybe) to pull the insert out. The idea is to get heat transferred through the blunt into the insert, only enough to remove. The shaft MAY still be ok, but check them if it works.

I thought it might be a little early in my overall accuracy state but i couldnt stand it and decided to try out a broadhead on my arrows i think i have about tuned. I shot 3 with field points and 1 with a broadhead. The BH arrow was right in amongst my groups and didnt notice any weird arrow flight with it. I wouldnt go as far as saying its perfect but I think I got this batch of arrows about sorted out. Heck when i take my time and focus on the fundamentals i would say i can make a decent group out to about 15 yards. According to the calculator my arrow is about 375gr ttl with a 15.8%foc. Im pretty happy with the progress so far. Next step is to shoot it a few thousand more times.