Good Morning All, are there any Fisher trappers our there that use this trap for Fisher? I was thinking about using these in a mink box when the season opens next month. I've never trapped for Fisher before but I see them fairly often in my area. Thanks for the advice!

I ve heard of guys using them,with success....but I would use a 155 or 160 on a leaning pole....but don’t know your laws down there.

The 120 Belisle have no problem dispatching even the big male fisher. Should be trap of choice to used. Use them on my marten /fisher line all the time.

Just bend those triggers back a wee bit....let’s that big knobby headed male in that trap a little deeper...and keeps the red squirrels and ermine from tripping your trap too.

If Your State regs Allow, I would buy a few 160 Belisles.
I've used the slightly larger 160 in Setback wooden boxes with good success.

Pennsylvania only allows conibears within the confines of a water course. I'm sorry Nessie, I disagree about the 155's. If it were me I would use Belisle 160's recessed in boxes. Bending the triggers is a matter of opinion. I do not.

I used pans on 120 traps in mink/marten boxes for many years placed within 4-5" of the bait, for mink, marten and fisher, and got a consistent humane catch virtually every time. The reason being that they are stable at the bait and standing on the pan or bumping it with their chest while working the bait, not moving through the trap to get to the bait. On mink and marten you will get a neck/thorax catch whereas the fisher will be a neck catch.
The pan trigger setup provides an open entry space without any trigger wires in a fishers face that may deter them from entering thru the trap.

I have caught quite a few fisher in 120 marten sets.
Seen refusals by big males,but caught some big males also.
The LDL b-120 mag does a better job than the belisle 120 super x.

Just curious fisherman, how many fisher do you figure you have under your belt?

I always bend the triggers in a similar fashion except I always have the trigger on the jaw closest to the bait, Eliminates nose caught fisher.

I always set my trigger on the downhill jaw farthest from the bait. I do not bend the trigger wires. The reason that I do this is to prevent the trigger wires from embedding into the tree,pole, or animal.I am concerned that the dog of the trap could cause pelt damage. I've had that happen with beaver.
Also I run a wire through the meat of the bait, over a bone, and back down through the meat., then I wire around the pole so that the bait is secure. I am not a big time trapper, but this system works for me. Any fisher that gets through the triggers will have to tug on the bait, consequently firing the trap. I don't have any marten where I trap, but I'll gladly take incidentals like weasels.
Red squirrels will eat beaver meat and if I get a flying squirrel you might better pull the trap..
From experience I have learned the hard way that fisher can easily be over trapped, so I immediately pull the trap when a catch is made.
I know that I'm opinionated, but I stand by my thoughts on size traps. I don't set many footgrippers, but when I do I like the #2 Sleepy Creek DBL longspring.
As for how many fisher I have caught, I have not really counted, probably a couple hundred over the years.. I do know there is a big decline in the Adirondack population. Also I feel badly for all of the Maine trappers that are screwed because of the Lynx nonsense.

Great pics and great advice!

Yup. Always set the trigger on the side of the trap towards the animal when it approaches. Seen animals lost also when,.instead of having the trigger hit the animal, it jams of the jaw with one trigger wire on each side of the jaw. Trigger placement as you described solves this.

I never nose caught any thing in a body gripping trap....110-330...neck catches ..yes !

They should work for fisher!

Big Fisher