Hello. I am going to trap a mink this season and want to use this set some. I am going to buy the book by K Smythe from MTP. At the same time I am going to buy some body grippers. Not knowing what I need until I get the book, but wanting to make only one order, do one spring or two springs work better or does it matter? Any other thoughts are appreciated. Thank you for your time.

I took all your advice, bought the book, made 3 bottom edge and 2 land sets using 110's in a 100 yard space. I figured if one came through it was bound to go by one of the traps. Caught it in the bottom edge set that I thought had the best chance. Took 1.5 weeks but caught one. I actually thought it may take longer so was pleased. Thanks again for your time.

One spring is all you need and 2 springs will just get in the way. You will need some wire and that is it.

Bingo. Keep things simple just like Ken Smythe discussed in his book.

I do recommend a pair of gauntlets and pruners for cutting stakes. You can roll up your sleeves without gauntlets but when your clothing gets wet you feel it all day. Green limbs cut off at an angle shove into hard clay easier than when just snapped off.

Alright...alright...a pair of hip boots too while we are at it.

I knew I forgot something- and a vehicle to get to your stops is helpful.

#150s and KB stabilizers

substitute paracord for the wire, it's a bit unorthodox, but you'll never puncture your gauntlets

prep your gear: cut off lengths of paracord, say six feet, tie to KB, thread up through coil of spring, fold #150 flat on KB, wrap paracord around this unit, then half hitch in place

go get 'em

The pic shows two springs, but for those who haven't seen the KB, you get the idea.

imagination helps,sit and imagine the mink hunting and coming around that sharp angle to surprise prey.heres my coni holders i use for the set.
keeps trap stable in rocks and from sinking in mud

I use a brick as an anchor and to stabilize it against the bank, just a great set in late fall and winter

Early in the season leaves clog the set. After a big rise or two the leaves will clear out some. If you don’t have the ice I catch more for some reason on stream rises. Set several spots at each place if you see them. Set right on the bottom on the corners of concrete culverts.

Good point. Exactly why I wait til early December.

Pcr2 . . . nice setup. I've found the coniholder to be a bit sloppy for some makes/sizes of bodygrips. I would hybridize the two, welding another piece of rerod across and substituting the coilspring for the coniholder.

A fella could weld together a structure on your framework to elevate that spring that would hold and position a #330 perfectly in a beaver run, IMO.

I run more colony traps for 'rats than I do the #150s.

Here's some pics that get me fired up for the coming season. The first frost can't come soon enough. I've bumped from these #110s to Bridger #150s now. Fits the KB much better.

Muskrat, that top pic really makes me long for November... and yeah I'm switching from the Bridger #110s to the #150s as well... but I've noticed the #150s like to bite your fingers quite a bit more

I clean up the dog notch with a round file. Take time with each one and you'll have a decent BE trap.

Everybody has their own preferences. For muddy bottoms, I like 160s turned sideways on a square stake, wire the chain up high. You don't even need gaunlets.

The BE is most productive when the snow flies. The Bridger 159 single spring is my fav. if otter and beaver aren't around. If they are present then Bridger 220s get all 4, mink, muskrat, beaver and otter. 24 inch 1/2 rebar for stake and support or a conni plate. Cool pics Muskrat

updated

The KB stabilizers are great, however they need to be attached to the trap chain so that you don't lose them when the trap fires.