Hello Everyone,

I've always wanted to catch a fisher or two. Hopefully going to try in 2020.

Could some of you guys who've successfully trapped them before please point me in the right direction (Minnesota Boys).

What is the smallest size coni a fisher will willingly work a high percentage of the time? The smaller trap I can productively use the more options that will be available for set construction. I've never seen or held one that wasn't skinned so not sure what to expect.

Triggers or coni-pan?

Is it better to set them on the ground with boxes or leaning poles exposed trap?

If boxes, should it be solid or wire back?

Do I stake the box down and attach the trap to it? Or cable the trap off and just lay the box on the ground?

What is the best bait? How much of it?

When applying lure do I put it inside the box or smear it on an adjacent log or tree?

Two sets per location or just one? How much distance between set locations (just talking general here)?

Anything else that is a must do or definitely don't do?

Thank you for any advice you can offer!!

I use a bucket. 220 trap. Wire it to a tree. Either holes in the bottom of the bucket or cut out and put mesh.
Fishers are pretty aggressive. I use beaver meat in the bucket. Anything will work.
Put some pine bows around the edges of the trap to disguise a little.
I add scent above the trap to help out. i only put one trap per location.

160 mabe 155 if you can leaning pole or box both work some dont like to climb box wire the trap ring to the pole ,beaver works best for me good size chunk muskrat works all soi use russcarman cannie call or cravens gusto for lure,you can set two sets you could get a doubble some times they is a pair running together.good luck my friend.

I bought Bob Noonan's Fisher dvd, thought it was well worth having being as I knew nothing about them either.

You ask excellent questions and they tell me you already know plenty about how to approach catching fishers. While I have not caught a ton of them I have formed a few opinions on what works best for me.

You should be able to get most fishers in the 120's with pans but a big male's head barely fits through one. I think they do force their way though anyway. A 160 covers anything and gives them a bigger opening.
On the smaller bodygrippers (120's, etc) I like pans.
On the ground you will probably have a higher percentage especially with the larger males but leaning poles have also worked for me.
On my boxes I like many big holes drilled in the back but wire would work as well.
I drill a hole through the box/tube and run a long stake through it that also anchors the trap and box at the same time so critters can't roll or move the box.
Beaver is best bait and as much as you can stand to fit in the back of your box and still be able to lift it.
I apply a large amount of Gusto to the tree above the set and a tiny amount in the back of the box.
Two sets are better than one simply because you are covering more area in your location and doubles are possible but unlikely where I live.
I don't know where you intend to trap but the 120's in tubes or boxes should be legal and pretty dog-safe in most states I would think.
Also, depending on the state the limits (especially here) are pretty small so catching large numbers would not be much of an option, I would not think.
Good luck on your venture since I think the fisher is one of the coolest critters to run the woods.

Disclaimer: I'm not much of a trapper so take my advice with a grain of salt. The answers I have given above are just what have worked for me.

First you need to check the regulations of the state you are going to trap. I have started to use more 155 body grippers because of the 5.5 “ jaw spread. In NY you can set these on the ground, anything over that width needs to be set back in a box or at least 4’ off the ground. Also, there are Marten where I trap so it works for both species. I use 4’-5’ of cable to fasten trap because in NY it is illegal to suspend any trapped animal.
I primarily use versions of the running pole set, mostly because of the snow we receive in northern NY. But you will get refusals on pole sets. I set on vertical to 45 degree angle poles and trees. I’ve caught many fisher in my area in dirt hole sets made for fox and coyotes.
Beavermeat bait is king, and anything with a skunk smell for call lure, but fisher also have a sweet tooth.

If you use a pole set, make sure your bait is close to the trap, so they will not try to jump over your trap. I use spruce or balsam Boughs to cover bait and wire them so they cover the bait and hang over the top of trap. It stops them from jumping the trap and keeps the birds off of the bait, and boughs are on site, boxes are heavy to carry.

It doesn’t hurt to set multiple traps in close proximity, sometimes in the fall ,female fisher will still have her kits traveling with her.
Overall they are not hard to catch if you are on location, but it may take time for they have a large travel area.

As previously stated fisher are not hard to catch as they are an opportunistic hunter/scavenger that prey on a wide variety of animals including hares, grouse, squirrels, birds and their eggs, berries, mice and voles and CARRION thus will respond to most bated and lured sets. Venison, moose and beaver are excellent bait for them with beaver being my preference. You just need to be on location and have PATIENCE as they may take several weeks to complete their circuit.

The natural cubby there shows a 220 wire triggers on bottom, since that year going foreward I added all Wood pans to my 220s and 160s.
I have only used boxes with notches and overhanging tops Or cubbies I make out of available materials. But...Next year I will be adding a few pole sets near each ground cubby.

My best locations are where I Bear bait. Fishers like Grape squishys that I sometimes can buy for Bear. So pre baiting and cameras let you know What's up. Once they get a free meal theyll be back.

I put a skunky lure up on a tree right near each set. Beaver meat in back by the hardware cloth back.

A good coyote or fox set will catch you some fisher.

good luck Andy.

Trap size in MN is a tough call as we have some Fisherzillas, topping 60" nose to tail tip(w/ block heads like small Labs). Also a lot of our fisher now reside in human/pet dog vicinity, making 220's problematic(even 160's). Catch more fisher on the ground over elevated and sets are faster to make. I haven't seen one have a problem digging into a foot or more of snow to get to a box if the get dumped on. Patience isn't an option here with only a 6 day season(now 9 days but later in the winter). Bad weather can hole them up for a week and males especially can run a large territory. I have very rarely taking a fisher at fresh tracks unless at a active food source. But setting where you have seen them travel is very productive for me. Fisher some times travel in pairs(or at least reside in same area) so pairs of sets is not over kill IMO. But if your box is bait w/salted meat(and a marshmallow w/ anise and jelly) , a fisher lure or canine lure inside, a strong skunk call lure up high and some flagging you should pull any fisher passing by within a couple hundred yards. Rabbit fur or feather from seasons game bird cleaning can motivate the undecided. Footholds will work but are much more difficult to keep working in our late snowy conditions. Hardest thing here to catching a fisher is getting a set near one before the season is over. Biggest hurtle to taking a fisher in MN is the residency requirement or land ownership(but it wouldn't take much if in the right habitat).

I made 7 new boxes this year sized for a 160 size trap, I am trapping public land with size restrictions, no bg larger than 160 on land and also must be set back 7" if on the ground. All my sets were on the ground. I don't feel like I need a larger trap. Beaver and muskrat for bait and some skunk sent near and in box. I also put some commercial bait in box, and rabbit fur. I believe in using many scents. Our season is short and you must catch then the first time by. Ridges and drainage's are the best places to find them in my area. I set 7 locations 6 of the locations I had saw tracks in last 10 months 3 of them I had saw tracks within last month or when I set it. I caught one 11# male.

My boxes have a 17" top and 13" sides and bottom with wire back.




If you are looking to trap central MN contact me I can show you around.
Edit; nevermind I forgot about are stupid Non res politics.

I got 2 fishers this year. Both on Sam Wood's set. The one where he uses pine bows (or whatever, maybe hemlock if you had it). The only change I made was putting a little super skunny lure above it.

The two I got where on the same tree, with a game trail below it running into a tiny pond (spring hole) about 10 feet away. I was not setting on a hemlock itself because I didn't have one there, I used a pine or spruce or whatever it was (no whites on the bottom of the needles indicating hemlock).

It's the set at the end of the video I think. I used beaver meat.

https://youtu.be/HwDIYUQJpzw

I like a 155 dual purpose fisher/marten strickly fisher i'd go with a Belisle 160 with a hard wood pan.I like leaning poles if your on a 3 day check 24 hour check ground sets seem to have less refuses,hard to beat beaver,muskrat and fowl for bait.I like a sweet lure in the box etc. and a stronger lure up high and don't be afraid to use flagging,movement and smells will attract your critters.Good luck on the Black cats of the forest.....

Lots of Great Information in this thread!

Just my two cents: I think the ideal fisher conibear is the 160. Footholds I like the #2 Sleepy Creek Dbl long spring. As Squash stated, check your state's regulations first.
As for me, I like the 160's on a 60 degree running pole. They are quick and easy to make and at 4' above ground they avoid dogs..I also like the cages that Noonan advocates. Eliminates searching for the "perfect" pole. Be aware nutt every fisher will climb a pole, but most will. I'm not a fan of the 155's; too small.I've had live females in the 220's. I do want double springs on my conibears.
If setting on the ground be sure to have your conibear recessed at least 7" inside the box and restrict the entrance to a max of 6". This is to avoid catching a dog. A dog struck across the nose will live. One caught behind the ears is a dead dog.
I prefer beaver for bait, rubbing the flesh on the pole from the ground up to the trap. with the bait secured just above the trap. If setting at 45 degree angle, animal easily can jump over the trap. If setting at 90 degrees fisher might climb from backside. I leave my baits exposed, uncovered. Check your regs on that.
I run a wire through the flesh of the bait, over a bone, and back down through the meat and then twist onto the pole to secure it.
As for lure, I take one ounce of skunk essence and mix it with melted down Crisco. Used to use Vaseline,but it crusts over in use.
Avoid poles too close to other trees as fisher will climb up, leap over, and come down on the bait from above. I like to set with overstory above.

Take a jar of petroleum jelly and put in a pan of semi boiling water....to turn the jelly into liquid. Then take the jar of liquid jelly outside and dump 1 Oz of pure quill into the liquid jelly. A few quick stirs....and let it rest and go back to jelly. Then at your leaning pole set...smear some above the set...on the underside of the pole. Use a hind 1/4 of beaver for bait...I use 160’s in a homemade wire cage ..wired to the leaning pole. Don’t forget to cover your bait with pine or hemlock bows....to keep birds of prey away. I always make 2 sets at each location.... 30 feet apart...Incase a coon plugs one up. And if you want to catch red squirrels and other non target animal...use wooden pans and put you triggers on the bottom. I run my triggers bent back....and never had any pelt damage with this set up.

Thank you so much everyone for all the information and help! More replies than I could have hoped for.

Everyone’s pictures are beautiful, amazing animals.

If anyone has anymore pictures they would be willing to post I would enjoy seeing them.