What is your swivel setup?

Basic one at the trap one at the stake. I plan on adding another in the center.

You will be amazed at the difference adding another swivel will make in foot damage. The swivels that come factory on them will work but aren't great. When the j-hook is closed it doesn't leave much shaft exposed. You can take vise grips and get them closed up a bit more to help from binding as fast.

Might want to be careful filing the inside of the jaws on Bridger dogless traps. That's where your pan latches onto the jaw to hold the trap open.

^^^ yes you would definitely want to leave that area alone.

I run inside and out 3/16X1/4 from J C Conner on all my #2 Bridger and duke as well as shock springs from him and his nail swivels. Sanded edges with a small belt sander. Where you catch a coyote as well as all are individuals just like people. Some will fight harder then others. Catch one and hold him during a storm can make them fight harder as well. I don't run any 4 coiled even with the laminations.

You probably can't laminate inside with a dogless trap.

I laminated all my # 2 Bridger offsets last year, used 3/16 round stock. They are the old style with dogs. They will all be getting new springs this year. I used a few on my fox line this last season when I ran out of my regular Northwoods 1.75's. I'm pleased with those limited results. I didn't head north to run a coyote line this last season, that would be a better test.

Agree. I have three swivels on all my footholds. On the few occasions they get bound up with grasses the difference is noticeable.

I am not familiar with the Bridger dogless. Can they be night-latched? I'm a big fan of night-latching.

They come factory night latched

Catch 22,
I have used the #2 and # 3 Bridger traps for quite a while. Occasionally, not always, but occasionally I have had issues with them. They are not laminated but will be.
I finally, being slow, dumb and cheap, realized to avoid having feet like the old #2 Victor coils produced at times, I need to laminate.
I think issues show up and are dependent on individual animals reactions.

Mac

I found a long time ago factory offsets are a joke when it comes to foot damage.I have no experience with this,but I've been told "canadian mods",that is,laminating the bottom of the jaw as well as the top make a big difference.That would be an extremely wide jaw face.Maybe do some up this way and use next season and see what you think.Also,their are some members here,seems more so in the south,that use soft catch or MB550 rubber jaw with great results.I've thought about giving them a try myself.

Why do you say factory offsets are a joke? Just curious on your thoughts, always willing to learn something new or see a new perspective. Personally I think, like stated already, there is or should be a lot more that goes in to it. Any stock trap has room for improvements or mods to fit your needs or each different species you're trapping. Stock offsets, with no laminations/extra swivels may cause damage. Length of your chain may make a difference. Entanglement makes a difference. Hours between checks can make a difference. Size and demeanor of the individual animal makes a difference. 2 coil/4coil makes a difference. It's not just cut and dry...its up to us to figure out what works best for our situation and where we trap. But, it is awesome to have experienced guys that will take the time to maybe speed up the learning curve a bit and help us along the way!

A factory offset is sheared into the jaws,leaving sharp edges that are still coming into contact with the foot and there's no wiggle room here,it will and does cause foot damage.I will give you this,if you come up on your set right after a catch has been made that hold might look impressive.But thats more than the exception rather than the rule in my eyes.Yes,there are other variables that can come into play,but I would consider those variables exceptions too.Back in the late '70's early '80's the big fad was small traps for large predators,and 1.75 victor was born,it supposedly was the trap to bridge the gap between fox and coyote traps.Good concept,it would have worked better if Victor used better metal in their construction and thicker jaws.Then they sheared a 1/4"gap into those thin jaws for a offset.At the time the offset was being promoted as a animal comfort feature,which it hardly was with thin jaws that at the very least needed filing down on the sharp edges.Then Northwoods came out with their version,and they pushed on the fact they used thick jaws in their models.Again,while their thick jaws had good rounded edges in their regular models,the offsets were nothing more than a 1/4"cut made into the jaw,that large rounding effect was lost.I got in to both models big time when they came out,and at that time we had a large red fox population.The Northwoods came with machine chaln centered on the frame and then a box swivel,the Victor was at the typical frame end with their typical dog chain.I used these traps staked with short chain and swivel,and with 6"of chain on a drag.And the foot cutting I got was ridiculous.I did much better using No.3 Montgomery's with regular jaws on fox.To cut this story short,a factory off set doesn't do any good if its not done right,I don't care what the conditions are.I'd go with large rounded jaws anyday over a factory offset which is just sheared in to the jaws.

Buck you forgot the offsets made WITHOUT cutting. They just add a bump to hold the jaws open. They serve no purpose other then to skirt some state laws IMO.

I have used 4-coiled, offset, outside lams #3 Bridgers for 5 years with virtually no damage. We do have 24hr checks and I added a third crunch proof swivel. Have caught and held skunks, coons and grinners along with the target coyotes. I have a lot of confidence in these traps, if its sprung there is a critter in it.

Providence farm, where at in Indiana you from?