So since alot of the thread in the archives are a little dated and the pictures on many don't work any more was hoping we could possibly make a new big thread on coyotes. So if you guys don't mind when it comes to trapping killing yotes what do y'all do. Like sets,traps anchors, baiting lure scent control,calling, dogs snares so on and so on. What's some must read or watch books / videos? What's your thought process? If you guys have picture you want posted but arnt sure how to post them to the site please email them to me ( wolfdogmcdowell91@gmail.com) and I'll be more than happy to post them in this thread .

Great thread Wolfdog!
And if I could add to it, discuss lure vs bait and when and where. I’m still learning as well and think I’m just lucky more than knowledgeable. Not asking for secrets...just advice. Not anyone’s baits or lures just proper use of them.

I would say for me staking with cables is the easiest then I use my rebar on my coon sets. The disposal stakes they cant pump out and less weight depending on how long your Trapline is and if you walk that may be important. Or presetting drags in brush is another good option. Adding a shot of urine always helps bring them in

For what it’s worth, I’ve caught probably 80% of my coyotes on urine/dropping sets on a tuft if grass or rock. The other 20% have been on flat sets under cowpies. Haven’t had a lot of luck with dirtholes personally but I know some guys do! Also something I’ve learned is how nice it is to have a good dog on the line. Mine usually helps me figure out where good coyote locations are and always can find a coyote on a drag before I do.

Locations, and then where to make the set at those locations. That would be a good topic.
Types of sets matter too, but in real estate and in trapping it's all about location, location, location.
I use the old adage if a location is good enough for one set it is good enough for two or three.
Jim

Coyotes have become one of my favorite things to catch mainly because they seem to hold a stigma of being one of the harder animals to trap. I’ve found the opposite to be true.

I use stock MB550/No BS extreme juniors around 50/50. I have things I like about both and things I dislike about both. Out of all of the traps I’ve tried they seem to be the two with the least amount of adjustments and they both are built solid (I am not a modifier type guy).

I simply hook a j-hook onto the stock chain with 12 inches of 1/8 cable wolffangs. I don’t add any extra chain. I’ve ran Tom Stalkers driver for four seasons and I have a backup in the truck for when I break it. That’s one thing I always have is two of everything sometimes three. Stuff happens.

I run minimal lure. I’ve caught coyotes on lure. I’ve found some I really like. However, simple is best for me and you’ll never see more than one lure or bait in my bag anymore. I don’t waste time reading labels or figuring out what type of lure I have making a set. I just grab and go. Bait is king for me and at times it’s almost a lure. Any of the current baits in the market work but preferably one they’ll dig for. I also give each set a shot of quality urine.

The set itself is muscle memory. It’s almost boring at times. I find myself enjoying chasing what limited bobcats we have because they are cats and they aren’t as easy to predict their reactions here. This is 90% of my sets over and over again. Nothing fancy. Dirthole and go.



I don’t worry about scent control at all. Wear the same boots at the gas station. Wear gloves if my hands are beat up or cold, otherwise I don’t. Spray paint my traps. Really absolutely zero attention to scent control. I focus on speed. In and out.

There really are no secrets to coyote trapping in my opinion. Just comes down to putting in the work. I’ve read a number of books and watched DVD’s mainly for entertainment purposes. I do enjoy seeing how other people make things work. In agriculture territory Combines and Coyotes was a pretty descent DVD. It’s pretty no nonsense. I also learned quite a bit from the Indiana Vets fox dvd. I haven’t got around to watching his coyote dvd yet.

Really after all the sets, lures, baits, locations, traps etc. In my opinion if you want to catch a bunch they have to be there, you have to cover some miles, and you have to work.

I'll have to go back in my picture files to try and find good ones. But im using dirt holes 50% of the time, flat sets another 25% and pipe dream for the other 25%. We have a lot of goat, sheep, cattle pasture around here with coole ditches running by them and the coyotes love to follow those ditches. So a lot of time I like to set at the intersection of those ditches and a tree line/ fence line. And any sharper bends/corners of those ditches. And in the winter time I set almost all snares of the coyote trails going up and out of these ditches.

I’ll second what WadeRyan said on putting in the work. It’s not that it’s hard, it’s time consuming. A coyote may not be back through an area for a week to ten days. That’s a lot of empty checks if you’re trying to get rid of one or two problem animals on a smaller piece of property, but that’s the nature of a coyote.

Along those same lines, leave the dang sets alone and let the work as much as the weather will allow. Bury the traps deep enough that the first rain won’t uncover them and leave them alone. Lure and bait last a LONG time.

I think getting the trap bedded solid is most important. Doesn’t matter how ugly the set is, just as long as it doesn’t move under foot. And leave the dang set alone once set and only get close enough to see if the trap is set off. I use Bridger 2’s, trying the Canadian Jaw this year, 3 swivels and 3 links of chain in between them and a big quick link on the last swivel so I can attach the trap to a super stake or a drag quickly. I make my bait, it’s beaver meat with some castor in it. I like smaller traps, 1.75 and 2 size

i use mb550 and bridger #2 full mod offset use wolf fangs dirt holes 40% flat set 30% post and pipe 30% use fox urine bait and lure

Wolfy I use a variety of traps for coyotes and it's more because I have a variety of traps.
#2 round jaw Montana, #2 and #3 square jaw bridgers, and I run some longs of course in #2 mostly but also some #3s.
All of my traps are center mounted chain, shorter chains with at least 3 swivel points, and a butterfly for double staking with rebar. I have some that are laminated, some that aren't. Some are offset, some are not. I just bought traps over the years based on price and ability to work for me but really no preference. I do know I'm not a huge fan of bridger offsets in 3 size they seem to have a larger gap and we have a lot of coon here which I'm usually OK with large boars showing up at sets. Other than the above, that's my equipment.
Jim

Hey Wolfi- Are there many coyotes in Mississippi?
I like big traps and I cannot lie. Most have the stock chain with a 14'' cable and anchor attached. I still set some long chained longsprings too. They work great on sandbars.
I like a dirthole like the one pictured with bait like a small muskrat or 1/2 a rat carcass, beaver or deer bones. I put most traps on a slope and guide with a couple bean stems popping up through the dirt by the levers. I typically back up a dirt hole with a flat set close by.
Last year I tried the pipe dream and gave it a good honest shot. It worked well with all the rain we had. Some days it was the only set working.
Have been using waxed dirt for some time now and like how it holds up and keeps a set working. I sometimes have trouble with coons digging in it if the rest of the ground is frozen and the trap bed is soft.

Post / flat set along field edge



Flat set in cow trail

I run mostly with #3s, including the new Duke 650, with MB Super Stakes, short chain, w/ two swivels. I'm a fan of dogless traps. I use about 2/3 dirt holes & 1/3 flat sets; all the attractants go IN THE HOLE! I really love scat sets & urine posts (including charred stump sets.)

Mb550 os 4 coils, Mb650s and KO Juniors late for now anyway, all with 18 inches of chain to the anchor point. Lots of swivels. Mostly chained super stakes. Ima lure guy, use very little bait. With low populations and all the pressure here, 90 % flat sets with bones and such. Learn the blind trail set. Time management and location is what separates success and failure. Waxed dirt saves a ton of time as well as a simple grass clump with lure smeared on it with a trap bedded solid and blended. I always set a location with 3 sets to start then add more if needed.

Keep an open mind, Get down to their eye level and learn from the coyotes!

I'm no coyote expert, but I've been putting out test sets year around for 3 years now and trapping for maybe 10 years now. Ive tested commercial bait and lures, my own formulations, bases, singles ingredients, combinations of ingredients, coyotes reactions to different type of sets a few other things. Most all of it is documented and without counting im in the neighborhood of seeing 300 different reactions of coyotes. My 2 cents for anyone that it might help is coyotes run on a spectrum of some being easy to catch and some very hard to catch. If you have a large population you will have a higher number of the easy ones to catch. If you have a lot of trapping and hunting pressure the easy ones die or learn fast. If you have a large population and access a good quantity of ground catching coyotes looks easier. If you have less coyotes to target, either low population or limited acres to trap it can be tougher.
I think each type of sets have their own advantages and disadvantages and as you learn these it easier to know when and where to use each and how to exploit their strengths and minimize their short comings. If i had one set it would without a doubt be a dirthole.

I don't know if coyotes preferences as to lure or baits very from area to area but ive sure enough had a lot of commercial formulations and lure ingredients that some have said are good not test well on my coyotes. I do know that some makers sales are higher because of their marketing abilities. It just business 101, the better marketing you have the more product you will sell. As a whole I think a top shelf lure ( and I use mostly my own) will out perform bait but the combination used together correctly is hard to beat. Easy coyotes make a lot of attractors look good.

The large majority of guys that catch big numbers of coyotes only and the ones that make a living catching coyotes seem to prefer a #3 size trap or larger and that is my preference also based of my limited experience.

Alot of variables in coyote trapping and that's why I like the challenge of it. Hard to put all coyotes and all situations in one box.

Much like making and selling fishing lures. Many times it has to look attractive to the fisherman than the fish..

Great info!
I like a call lure(usually canine call or gh2), lure, bait, urine. Rotate attractors year to year.
Mostly use double mouse hole with a jaw guard.
#3 size longspring center swiveled, mid swivel, end swivel, total chain and swivels about 16-18".
Tip i learned. Leave loose jaw up off the spring a little, helps trap be a bit faster i think.

I have used a few different traps but these days,I mostly use MB650's or MB550's.I'm not sure I have settled on a specific trap yet but these two have worked very well for me.My anchoring systems are mostly either earth anchors,which are Dirt Dogs with 12" of stainless cable and 6" of chain,or double,18" steel stakes.I am also set up to use grapples and 10' of chain if needed.Sometimes even stone drags- whatever it takes.

Early season,I may use a little bait,curiosity lure and various urines.Sets are mosty flats but some dirthole and post. sets.The dirtholes are subtle,most traps are blended and the holes are plugged with dry grass.They are hard to recognize as a dirt hole.

As the season progresses,I usually use less bait,sometimes a little red fox gland and other lures and urines.I start watching antelope and deer because they migrate in and out and when gone,give me an opportunity to set a few snares.Meanwhile,I also have to stay in close contact with the rancher to see when cattle will be where.If the grass isn't high enough to hide snares,I may use trail sets instead.I still continue with flat sets and dirt holes may become mouse holes or old badger hole sets.Post sets also work at this time,especially if near other sets or points of interest.

When cat season starts in Dec,I start looking for subtle ,canine locations in the timber,which I have to go by,checking cat sets.Some of these are trail sets or snares on trails.Some are subtle blind sets where coyotes sneak around some flashy cat sets.Others may be subtle flat sets along the roads I have to travel,checking cat sets.

January and February,I am monitoring coyote and deer movements in the snow.Coyotes have usually shifted some,due to the coming breeding season.There are a couple trails that get used briefly as well as a couple crawl unders.I set these with blind sets or snares and often,when they come through,it is a hot female and 3-4 males.It is a very quick thing and you need to be ready as they may only pass through once or twice and can be erratic and are not very susceptible to bait or even lures when they are "in the moment".I still make some flat and post sets,using red fox and coyote gland and urine,one or the other or their urine or even just droppings. Weather can get very bitterly cold at this time so there can be some interest in bait again,at this time.You just have to pay attentions to all seasonal changes.

A bone pile with no fresh meat,can turn on in sub-zero temperatures and deep snow as there are tons of mice there and you can see where the coyotes dig for them.

When wolf season starts in mid-Dec,I try to work in some coyote sets,on the way to the good wolf locations.It gets tricky as I don't want a wolf to hit my coyote sets and our wolf traps have to have 10 lbs of pan pressure and coyotes won't normally trip those.

That is about all I can think of right now.Catch them where they are,and that changes with seasons and weather.Keep them guessing and when they start to get acclimated change it up.Change it up!

could someone explain the pipe set for me please i dont think i have heard of that before

Here is the man that invented it.
https://youtu.be/J8uFmU3yanY

other than my dirt holes most people would have a hard time seeing or finding my coyote sets. On my dirt holes you wouldn't know were my trap is by looking at it with the exception of my step downs. And my dirtholes most people couldn't tell if they were man made or natural.

Coyotes as a whole are spooky by nature and the less yellow flags you give them at a set the more you will catch is my experience. Sometimes it take experience to figure out what causes them caution and what doesn't.

Thank you!

I’m a relatively new trapper. I started trying to trap coyotes in January of this year. I kept moving and resetting until June and caught four. I started with three #3s and progressed up to 19 now. I’ve never seen another human set a coyote trap (or any trap for that matter) in person. I’m completely YouTube, GON Forum and Trapperman forum taught. I certainly appreciate all the great info here!

All my catches have been on bait that I made from barn cat, venison, or small roadkill critters. I’ve used beaver castor, gusto, Violator 7, and some Bibles lure. I’d say I trust the castor the most at this point. I try to set around 75/25 dirthole/flat set, and that is reflected in my catches. One flat set and three dirthole catches. I can’t get enough of it, and I can’t wait to get back out there this fall!

Wade,
You may not worry about scent control, but you are practicing it with your focus on speed. In and out is the best scent control there is.

No pro but I can catch a coyote on some days.
3 & 4 victor dogless some.modified bridger 3s. Either wolf fangs or super stakes or drags.
Lure or bait they both work for me.
As far as what type sets ,,,,LOCATION catches more coyotes.
Location tells me dirthole or flat set bone set and whether to use bait or lure. 2 to 5 sets per location .
I do not carpet bomb a place,,, 10000 acre pasture with 4 cannons get 10 to 12 traps for example. Flat sets get remade into a dirt hole if blowed up to bad.
One Permission per 5 to 10 miles apart we have about 1 coyote per square mile in my corner of the world.
Human scent ,,, it is my belief you can not hide from a coyote but common sense goes long ways in all things.
Hard work & and covering lots of ground make big catches.
Know when to stay or pull traps and go is also a major consideration. And one of the common mistakes made.

Red, why you have to post those coyotes with fur?! Makes some of mine look like those shaved dogs that look like lions. Walleye I agree that is probably scent control. I watch the guys switching gloves and wonder how much longer their scent hangs around while they fumble around. I make plenty of first night catches. Enough that I have really lost interest in anything other than speed. When Phil Brown was still posting his videos a number of years back I was always amazed how fast he dropped in a set and how simple it was. I've tried to re-create his video a number of times in my head.

I have been focused on a solid bed at times for the fact that if we don't have a solid bed the coons seem to really like to dig at our traps. Interestingly, I've been reading from that guy that catches hundreds in a few weeks over the last couple years that he pays zero attention to solid bedding. His usual response to solid beds is how coyotes attack a plowed field shortly after it's tilled to catch the rodents turned up and that's the most unstable footing you could imagine. With the fur market how it is this year I plan to increase my speed even more, dig a smaller trap bed, and pay no attention to solid bedding. I'm curious to see how it plays out. Gives me something to look forward to.

Wade I use tight deep bed tap in sides done pretty simple and fast.
Unfortunately wax dirt start to finish 16inch of snow 2 nov. Day I started 2 yrs ago. Not fun lol

I know who your talking about and the guy does bag and tag them but the pure idea of not bedding a trap drives me nuts lol

I hear you Wolfdog. I've always bedded traps tight to the point I've even power bedded. I figure I can't lose anything by trying. With prices the way they are I'm not going to break any records.

There is definitely a trade off between time spent bedding and too much time at the set. I opt for speed and moderate attention to bedding.

Good thread here with a lot of information. On the video side I recently watched Payne and Masterson High plains Coyote and picked up a few things from it I will share here. The way Payne beds a loose jaw trap is different than me for sure. With the area I am in so similar to his and Suagr style sand very prominent to my sets I will give his method a try for sure. Kind of hard to explain but he kicks the loose jaw up and beds everything and then pressures the loose jaw into the bed and then overbeds that. Kinda making sure there is no free play area under that loose jaw. Just subtly different.

The second thing i learned and will try is the trench set they use in the video. They make the trench curved on the bottom to help direct the foot more to the exact center. Very subtle as well but seems quite logical on how htey do it.

I am not a big dvd guy. Actually this is the first Coyote dvd i have ever bought. but for my terrain and area it did click a lot of buttons for information. I am definetly high plains style trapping here.

I think where the time comes in from bedding a trap (is if you dig a big bed) I prefer smaller than trap and deep ,then check see if size hole fits trap if not beat sides with hammer then chain bottom then wax dirt over, cup it out place trap tap sides in , cover trap ,wax dirt, blend set on my way.
Packing a set or typical bedding of a trap with wax dirt is in my experience, debatable.
By making bed only the size of trap everything that is around trap is natural hard ground , so when animal step where trap is it goes off.

I like Zagman method of bedding. I go with 4 lbs of pan tension and liberally pound the jaws with the hammer. Have found the smaller the trap bed the better. It helps to use same trap. After awhile it’s bang band move on. Each to their own.

How many natural looking dirt holes have you ever found In nature. I bet I could spend 2 weeks looking for a animal made dirt hole that resembled a man made dirt hole and wouldn't find one. Just saying.

Actually I don't think it's human scent we should be controlling. It's weather they perceive you as a threat or not.. Seems I get more responses when I'm relaxed and not stressed and confident that its not if I'll catch but when. The last thing I say when a set is completed is That'll work! When the population is 2 per mile things change a bit.

Nice yote Red, cool location...

I consider every natural hole I find in nature natural looking. As far as you not being able to finding an animal made dirt hole looking like a man made dirt hole i don't know what to till u. I prefer to copy the animal made ones than to have them copy mine.

No one has mentioned about whether they just bed on sign in one area or blanket an entire property. For those of us with not a lot of coyotes (manager saw one or two on a camera a few weeks ago) and very few tracks, I’ll cover the entire property with traps at every road/intersection or if I find a track. I have only trapped one piece of property that actually had a “predator” trail and caught two right off the bat.

Where did Phil post his videos at? And I’d assume you’re talking about bobw

Wanna be ,,,no sign no trap in my post I guess I assumed i do not believe in carpet bombing . Later in the year for a example when i see a pair i set 2 traps or 2 sets nothing more,,,every property has one place that pair or even a strange coyote or 2 visit everytime they pass thru. That's the location and every property that has coyotes has that location.
This will save time and effort no sense setting 10 traps all over too catch those 2 coyotes. This leave's you more traps more time to cover more ground.
Tracks or turds will be there if you are on location if the grass is to thick might be the only disclaimer.
This has been my experience on my line .
But if a person has did better setting a bunch traps because of lack of permission had one or 2 or 3 places. Cover lots of ground on key location will catch a lot of coyotes. Imo.

Has anyone mentioned pre baiting? Pouring fryer oil down a hole?

One thing i have learned the hard way last year is in this country you need to understand the wind. I got to think about it at every set. the good dudes it is second nature but i still gotta think about it. It changes a lot here literally blows every direction but you can think prevailing and then knowing a storm is on its way you know what the wind direction will be then you set for that to carry your lure/bait scent where you want it not away from the action.

080808 I am intrigued by the pre-baiting idea. Was curious myself. I have a new to me line setup for this coming year. It is about 14 miles or so long and was thinking about dropping like 100 dirt holes on it and pre baiting and seeing what kind of action i get on it. then once season rolls around setting on the areas that are getting action. That is the thought anyways.

There is a lot to that too. I can recall a number of dogs I have caught like that.

Fryer oil mixed with bacon grease is a great way to create a hot spot. Set the travel corridors and as close as 6 feet from the blown out hole with something to pee on. But it all needs to be on location not just anywhere.

Ive do some . Not really set out to do it but ive put a trap in front of a test hole that has been recently worked. Pretty fast action. I think most coyotes urinate on a "set" they've worked plus they leave other scent as they try to get your goodies and the real natural odor is what our sets are missing. Plus I think the are much less cautious working a set they have previously worked. I like to set within a week or less after prebaiting that way they are still actively visiting the set. A really good eatable bait shines in this situation.

Every situation calls for deferent set ups. Here In the mid west we are dealing with a ton of non targets and If those 2 traps are full of grinners and skunks your not going to catch those coyotes.
The trouble with pre baiting It also brings In all the local non targets and their going to be the majority of your catches. Know If you do It In the dead of winter that makes a big difference.

Valid point. Here im fortunate to be able to just stay away from the creeks and timber and my coons, skunks, possums and deer problems mostly go away. Though I'm happy to catch the skunks.

I like Flat Sets . About 90% of my coyote contract jobs in the summer get some sort or flat set or post set. I like MB -550 traps . As far as books . I like the old hard to find ones. James Mast ,Bill Nelson , Stanley Young, Wiley Carroll, Del Cramer, John Ehn, James Lucero and so on. Anything made before 1970s is a book I want to read. Ogorman's book being the exception

I have so many pictures of coyotes on my phone, I have erased all the set picks I have will be glad to post some up around sunday or so. I am on a Non discloser high fence job right now, so I will post some pics latter

I've done the same but usually end up with nothing once I set a trap on the test hole. This tells me they know somethings different and seem to avoid it even when I take the necessary steps to avoid this. Seems I have better luck skipping the test set and just making a normal set right off. I don't really understand it but that's just how it is for me.

I have used the fryer oil by the bucket in the past. They will really dig for it and it will show you easily what there are for coyotes on a property. If I was going to try to really pre-bait coyotes I'd want something with more substance. Roadkill deer, beef remains etc. Every coon, skunk, and possum will also be on the fryer grease. It's attractive to everything. I don't think the oil itself is enough attraction to keep coyotes coming back regularly. Raccoons maybe. They want something they can eat not just lick.

Rather than pre-bait coyotes here I just look for the nearest hog unit or cattle operation. They have to call them "compost" piles here but it's just dead animals. I'll have to look if I still have the pic but I found one last year that had tracks over tracks both directions to and from the hog unit "compost" pile. They visit them nightly when I've put up cameras. Same goes for dairies or feedlots. They might not be coming to kill cattle but they know there are cattle there and are attracted to those lots. I had one heifer farm that I was sure was covered with deer tracks coming over the draw you could see the trail with a blind eye at 300 yards. Upon further inspection it was coyote after coyote.

Phil would post a video here and there from photo-bucket I believe on here and other places. It's been a number of years since I saw him post any. He's said he has hours and hours of home made video/pictures he just took on his line. The one that kept coming up was a dirthole he made in a minute or two. Nothing fancy just a dirthole, a couple handfuls of peat, throw the trap in, and on he went. Yes I'm talking about Bob.

It’d be awesome to see Phil in action, I just read the archives on here for quite a few years before I joined, so I’ve never seen anything that he’s posted. Like you say tho, it’d be cool to see how fast and efficient a guy can be.

Yes my original account on here was around 2006...there was a crash on trapperman sometime there and I lurked again until 2012. I'm not even sure when Phil was still posting I'm sure he's reading this. Maybe he will dig some of those old vids out. I remember seeing a couple of him bouncing in his truck to caught fox in sets as well as the one dirthole set on video. His pictures/videos seemed to stop when people went crazy posting his large catch pictures. Someone on here had that dirthole video saved and would post it from time to time. It wasn't Phil that was reposting it.

Same here on the books. I'd throw June and Locklear in there also

Black Spot. Forgot about reading Mark June's book = it was good. I also took lessons frorm Clint Locklear. When he lived in Dunlap Tn. Bout 1 hr and 20 mins from me

You decide the location is ideal for 3 sets, let's say.

1. What set types are you going to plug in? Efficiency would say 3 identical due to repetition. My logic is 3 different, DH, Flat, Pipe, etc so I feel it takes me longer to set area and fewer sets go in during a day.

2. If all dirt holes, are you going to a. make all 3 identical with same bait/lure/urine setup b. make 3 identical with different bait, lure, urine. c. make 3 variations with same bait/lure/urine or d. Make 3 variations with different bait/lure/urine

I use to regularly make 3 sets on a location but only once in awhile catch to critters and have never caught 3 at one check. So know I only use two sets and I'm getting were ill sometimes space them out a hundred or 2 yards apart. Now if I was on a dead pile or carcass ill go with 3 plus sets. Always a dirt hole of some variation. I really like flat sets put the micro location has to be there for one. Rode with a guy that averages double digit catches on coyotes a day and it 95% dirt holes. Same set, same scents at everyone.

I have never tripled on coyote, but double up often enough to make multiple sets worthwhile. But I think the real advantage of multiple sets on location is multiple chances at an individual coyote if you miss him at the first set.

I make multiple sets at a stop. I used to do one flat set and one dirthole. The dirtholes had coyotes the flat sets sat idle. So now it's dirthole and dirthole. Same bait and urine. Efficient. I know it won't work in all parts of the country and if you want a little variation in your life have at it with the flat sets. For the most part they just don't produce like the dirtholes here. I know I'm one of the odd guys out but there are others that use the same mentality.

Guy I road with had 5 at the first place we pulled up to. 5 traps, 5 coyotes.

Shouda set 6.

5 sets, 3 nights, 15 coyotes. I think he wished he would have made 15 sets and seen how many he could have got in one pic.

I make two sets at each location and if I add others they are at least a good football field away and then another pair made there. One is double dirthole and other is a post set. If I do add a third set it's a flat set or something completely different like mound with a hole.
I get at least half of my coyotes at post sets with just urine.
Double dirtholes get bait in one hole and beaver castor or mink gland lure in other hole.
Flat sets or mound with hole are with some call or gland lure.
No real science to it just always did it this way.
We have so many coon, possum, skunks, and occasional badger here that the multiple sets help keep something operating for coyotes when they come through. I do get a few doubles but not many. Had a double last year and that was fun.
Jim

I don’t know Mac whoever’s “fault” it was doesn’t really matter. It was interesting to see how he did it. I was reading archives on Gappa’s site last night. He was discussing checking traps at 65 mph right off the road and overlooking multiple sets on different properties to avoid detection/theft. That was back in 2005. I’d share a chair next to him and love to hear all the techniques he used. Once again it boils down to even with his best kept secrets the main thing he has is a work ethic and drive. That’s something the best trapping academy, book, or video will never teach anyone.

I count the number of species by tracks to determine how many sets go in to start. If there's coyotes, fox , coon and opossum then 4 sets go in. Very seldom does a coyote get missed by all 4 and some sets are always waiting. My first triple on yotes one ran off as I was driving in. I set a location for what it has to offer and what they came for.. I almost always add a scent post a ways off to give them something to pee on.

I make 2 sets at every stop. Stepdown dirtholes are my go to set, usually 2 at each location. Have had good luck with pipe sets and last year tried grab and pull sets. The grab and pulls surprised me, caught quite a few on them. I use 2 bait and lure combos at each stop, with very little urine. I really like the stepdowns as they are naturally guided. All sets get waxed sand from the time they are set. #3 dogless Bridgers are my main trap, with Kendall's Extremes getting put in more of the sets. Sign is hard to find for me as I'm in the Sandhills pastures, more on locations. They can't resist checking out windmills. One benefit to this ground is there are very few skunks and have never caught a grinner.

Very few skunks sounds like a dream come true. If we didn't have so many $#@* skunks I could bet by with 1/2 the sets.

Every location should be treated differently. One location may need 3 sets to cover different approaches. Even different times of the year will call for more or less traps. During the fall shuffle or during the breeding season you may want to set more traps at a location.
Those that set dead piles at feed lots would be wasting their time by setting even 2 or 3 traps. You can't catch 12 coyotes at one stop If you only set 4 traps.

Lets say we are trapping a 80 acre field It has 2 field roads that dead end going Into that field. We also have to deal with changing wind patterns and we have to deal with lots of non targets.
How many traps would you set at this location?

That sounds like my type of ground Beav, I could put 8 sets out there and have them all be full of coons or possums for the first couple days. Then after about three or four days of that I could maybe catch a coyote if I have some fresh sets in the ground.

Not sure if it’s just me, but I can not catch a coyote in a coon or possum remake to save my life. I’d pay someone a lot of money if they could show me how to do it lol. Cat and fox remakes are money for me on coyotes tho. anyone else experience this or have any ideas ?

And I should also add, that even on my fox and bobcat remakes, I still have to move my trap to the down wind edge of the burn circle.

My point was missed. He is an excellent trapper, for everything. If he had been offering instructions a few years ago I would probably pony up. Years ago he graciously offered I could ride along in the winter. He has probably forgot. I just could not get out of work.

My point is simple. I believe he learned a lower profile would have caused less headaches than the higher profile. He or others might disagree but I sincerely doubt it.

If your traveling down a road that will allow you to be running at 65 miles an hour you can't be covering many good locations. LOL

But I use to do that when I was coon trapping Road ditches. I would use those survey flags. Just roll up the flag part stick the flag in the ground next to the BG and place the rolled up flag end under the BG dog. Just like checking tip ups but not so cold. LOL

For the newer trapper reading this thread,,, you can not catch what ain't there. I know it sounds obvious but True none the less.
Cover lots of ground. And pull and move after catch start's to slow down.
Because zero day add's nothing .
3 weeks to a month come back ,and set it up again to catch what moved in .

Sounds like a work smarter deal to me.

Can't tell you how much I struggled with this concept lol

How many top locations are there like that on your Line? And still be able to hide your catch?
There are none like that on my line. So I'm just going to have to work harder. LOL

Well mine are ride right to it spots 10,000 pastures pretty well hidden
But I been known to go by them 35 40 mph on my wheeler.
On my cat line it's so bushy,, you gets to go get wet. Lol

How long would you give a new set to connect before moving?

4-5 days around me. Depending on the location and prior history with it also

TyT once I put set in I never move it until I pull traps to move and go to the next permission.
Here waiting on a coyote come back around can be while.
If were answer that question directly I would say 1 night to 15 days on average before I move most times.

Ok guys say your trapping in an area where driving a stake is just a pain ( let's say though rocky areas out west pine plantations with baked red clay in the south and frozen ground and timber up north) and you don't want to mess with drags what would y'all do ?

Chain or cable traps to a tree would be about the only viable option. Or what I have done is tied off to tractor tires laying in grass fields and they dont drag them very far.

This....

Well DEL Kramer in his book used wire chain or cable to tie off to a big rock , and used some sort of cement block. By making forms put chain cable in it a head of season once built took out where was going to make set leave until he was ready I got too many logs or big tree branches handy but could see my self using DEL's handy dandy home made rock in the mid west.
Hope that helps some

I have been tempted to make some artificial rocks out of concrete,with an "eye" bolt for a few spots and place them well ahead of season.I would be able to leave them out all year.I have drilled some limestone rocks already,for the same purpose.Actually,the rotary hammer takes the fight out of some of those crazy,rocky areas,for putting in rebar stakes.I always hated when I would hit a rock,halfway down and had to relocate the stake holes several times at one set.Some times you would about wear out your shoulder after a couple sets,but with the rotary hammer and a long,masonry bit,you can relocate a stake hole very quickly with little,physical effort.

My plan was to dig a few holes in a sand bar and use that as my rock molds.You could make them any size or shape that you wanted and install an eye bolt or loop while the concrete was wet.That is the theory anyway.

All I can do is set/pull after a rain. Sometimes I have to cut myself short on a piece of property and sometimes I’m there just a little longer. All my landowners know and understand what is involved in trapping. And just about all of them have rode the line with me while setting and or checking.

Snares or cable to a tree

I'd get on Snareone.com and buy Newt's Master Land Snaring book and 10 dozen of his snares.

I think it was Thorpe that buried tie plates for yotes and cat sets in rocky environments. In timber here it rarely freezes much under leaf litter so I just stake as usual. Love late season timber close to frozen marshes..

Hay so to help with some visuals, if I took some pictures of locations would y'all mind talking about how you guys would set it up?

wolfdog try to find pinch points one of my best ones is in a corn field that runs along a river their is a island of trees in the middle of the field with a brush pile on the end by the river it is 40 yards from the pile to the river i set 3 traps i have caught k9 in that spot every year for the last 8 years if you have 2 fields separated by a hedge row if it has a bar way look to see if their is tire tracks in the bar way if so set traps in tracks

Show the pics please!

i can but have to wait till mid September when they cut the corn

Just go down to your local home Improvement store you can buy all the pre made rocks you want. Just drill a hole In them and put In cement anchor and your good to go.

A coffee can or whatever you want. Pour the rock around eyebolt or whatever and no drilling

But Kermit you have to dig holes mix concrete place eye bolts. You can just drive up to a pile of ready made rocks of all kinds big ones flat ones Square ones and have them load them In the back of the truck. LOL

Sorry Beave,, ,but those aren't structural.Plus they don't have. The weight needed.

And a can laying out on the prairie isn't going to fool a single coyote or wolf.I am not trapping beavers.A can also wouldn't be heavy enough.

.... dirtholes kill everything down here if the pressure has been low

... a tiny bit of skunky call in one hole.... cat gland based in the other

Traps. I prefer to use the biggest trap I legally can. I like Bridger #3 dogless. I do have some Bridger dog on traps but once in awhile a big dog will bend up the dog some. Not really a big deal but sometimes it takes longer than I want to tune it up again. Last year I picked up a couple dozen MB 550's and those have became my favorite pretty fast. All my traps have 3 swivels . One on the trap,3 links of chain a swivel 3 more links of chain and a swivel. I prefer to have a J hook attaching a quick link. Im now using Super Stakes on cable. I dip my traps in a mix of 1/2 paint and 1/2 acetone. After good and dry I dip in floor wax twice.

Bait and lure. I always want 2 different baits in my bag all the time,once in awhile I have 3. Lures I want a long call lure, a more subtle call lure,a couple of different gland lures,and a couple different food lures. I always have a lure that is a heavy castor.

Sets. I make 60% flat sets and 40% dirt holes. Not all of my dirt holes are your classic dirt hole sets. Most are a double mouse hole or a "wabble" hole. Every so often I'll make a step down dirt hole. I do like a few blind trail sets. I like to put something in the hole(besides bait/lure) like a cotton ball, sheep's wool,or a wad of grass.

Locations. 90% of the time I set on sign. Fresh scat and or tracks. The other 10% are on locations that catch coyotes. A small field road that connects fields, outside corners. Pond dam,beaver dam, tree in the middle of a field or a center pivot.

Most places I have traps on at leas twice during the season. I like to set an area and get the gravy coyotes and most of the coons,possums,skunks. That initial setting stays a minimum of 14 days. I'll pull them usually right before gun season only leaving the best locations. And set again about a week after second gun season. I only set the best locations on a place. If a stop only calls for 4 or 5 different sets that's all it gets. There is no need putting in sets to just do it. Some sets get 2 traps .

I always remake a set and most of the time I might set another trap right on the outside of the catch circle.

I don't worry about scent at all. I wear my boots at the gas station. I spit tobacco spit at sets. I try to at least take a step or two away from the set. I do wear gloves to keep my hands cleaner. I do use a kneeling pad or knee pads to keep my knees dry. I don't change out traps after a catch. I don't retreat traps during the season. A coyote knows you have been there no matter what you do to stop it. The coyotes that most of us trap see hear and smell people all the time. I honestly think some of them associate human scent with food. People are always leaving something behind for them to eat,dumping trash ECT.

So finally got some time to go out and take some pictures of some land. So just to clarify I'm doing this to help show location set construction and what not. Just tell me how y'all would set it up and I'll try to follow your instructions and show pictures of the whole deal. Like if you day I'd put in a step down dirt hole here with this traps yadda yadda yadda I'll try to go out and make the set the way y'all describe,so it's easier to visualize. Not actually trying to catch anything.

Anyhow so this is what we got basically a four way intersection at this gate. There's a brushed trail coming from the left the main gravel road coming down the middle and a trail running the other side of the fence to the right in the pasture. Cannot set on the other side of the gate.



And here's the trail going into the pasture with me looking towards the gate


Now the coyotes have been seen taking this trail then cutting across the pasture using natural dips as cover.


There's also a woodpile about at the pasture edge

And here the end of the pasture. It's a slight rise then a low dip with a drainage going to the right.


The ground is pretty wet and we've been getting pretty regular rain . So how would y'all set this up?

Not a popular option, but I am convinced that compass set will bring in the dogs (anyway, here that is)! I like to look for areas that show activity, digging and what not. Get some lure in the ground, lol.

These are natural holes. I believe they are made by chipmunks

Here's a step down dirt hole remake in moist sand. The ridge around the back and right side is at least a foot above the hole. Pan in between two dirt clods. Small ridge of dirt pulled from hole on top of lever. The trench guide on left from O'Gorman (they work great!). Strong trap and good stuff down the hole. I tend to make the initial dirt hole more natural looking but remakes are already blown up so what's a bit more eye appeal...


and the result

While probably none of us catch big numbers, we all learn from year to year. Especially us lucky ones that have sandy fields and or snow at times. In the past I have caught quite a few on grab and pull sets, always in grassy areas. I also use the pipe set in sod areas but have had good luck with it in cut corn fields with the pipe in front of one or more stalks (more is better). However, this year I caught probably half in dirt holes. Some are step down, some regular "2" auger from Tom Stalker, and once in a while in a sandy spot I will dig a big dirt hole with a spade shovel. I have Victor Monty #3 dogless, MB550'S, and a few MB650'S. I do use a #3DLS in a few places in sand.
Highest spot in a field is always a producer, or the highest spot in that area of the field if it has a hedgerow with reasonable distance.


This was a sand high spot in a cut corn field. Pipe set in front of one stalk.


This was a double dirt hole at the end of a island of trees that sticks out into this field. No matter what side of the island the coyotes run they always go close to the point that is the west end of the island.

Same location at the end of the island of trees, different year. Again, step down double dirt hole.


This is the top of a river bank, north side. South side is identical. Built by the Army Corps of Engineers decades ago to keep the river from flooding farm land. I use either grab and pull, pipe sets, or flat sets on these. However in this particular case, no takers. But to the left you can see a pass thru spot for farm machinery to get from one field to the other. There is a drainage ditch there so it is a pinch point. Dirt hole and first night catch. Remake and added a second dirt hole, first night catch in the second hole. And later a 3rd in the second hole.


Here's dog from last week in a pipe set. This was a machinery crossover a big ditch between 2 fields. Grassy sod spot. Just across the path I had a dirt hole, caught one there with the original hole. Had a long chain so moved the trap to the outside edge of the catch circle and caught #2 (no picture). Those 2 holes had deer liver for bait with a shot of urine on the back of the hole. But all 3 were caught on the east side of the crossover (west predominate wind).


Last one. Sandy lane through the timber. T intersection. Dirt hole on the corner, and a dirt hole across the lane to the right. Caught 2 where this one is, nothing in second set across the lane. Deer liver again. Hope these help.

I wanted to add this.

High spot in a picked bean field that was basically bare sand. The coyotes cross the knob every time they go thru this field. I gathered up 2 piles of bean stalk debris and made 2 pee post sets. This was an old female, not friendly. She was barking at me while I was pulling up with the truck.

Note, the other debris pile just missed looking at the tracks in the sand. I remade the destroyed one. Next morning the coyotes had came back thru and from the BACK side pulled back both piles of debris. Ha. So even the one that did not catch they were wary of. We had snow, sleet , and freezing rain the next night so that was the end of the season.

Snaring unoccupied cattle pastures can be deadly. The cows make the trails for you and the coyotes follow them. Find a funnel point like this and block it down. This has taken 4 coyotes in 3 weeks plus 2 bonus fox.

One snare on the left and one on the right. Had to plant some brush to narrow things down a bit. Try to keep it somewhat natural.

Wolfie are their any coyote tracks in the sand near the gate ? If so are they coming down the fence to cross or are they following the road or path ? I think they are harder to catch at the gate as opposed to back a ways. If they are coming along the fence a urine post may be your best bet close to the gate. A deep dirt hole with a white rock or bone in it for eye appeal and what ever bait you prefer.

In the road , I would set a deep step down dirt hole so that if your not the only one diving there you don’t have to worry about the trap being ruined by a vehicle.

Great pictures and tips, thanks for sharing!

I have taken quite an interest myself in studying many of the older wolfer books out there since I primarily focus on coyotes. I have a list of books (many of yours listed above) that I am looking to purchase and those I have purchased so far and read, I have thoroughly enjoyed. They have been very insightful and many of the methods flat out work. The one thing that I find you have to overlook is the references to a lot of the "older technology" and equipment, as trapping equipment has come a looooong way since then.

Sometimes I find it great to circle back to the "older ways" and study how those guys did it back then. Amazing what history can teach us that is actually lost in the shuffle with social media, etc.

Great thread. I’ll see if I have time to make a poor boy set tomorrow and post it. Great flat set