On trail sets with 220s, is it ideal to have the bottom bar flush with ground? Or up a inch or two on raccoon? Get leg catches from time to time and I'm thinking they are climbing over.

yep, they are probably climbing over.
only flush with mink/rats
1-2" for coon is what I've read in numerous books
Sullivan Stabilizers are the bomb for holding body grips, some like Butterfly stands, etc.
make sure to blend them in a bit, with at least some vine draped across the top.
did you paint them with a pattern to break up the outline?
tune the triggers to trip with minimal movement? (as shown in the Basic Sets forum here)
add a swivel to the chain?

I don't worry about how far off the ground as much as I make sure the conibear is the "hole" it has to stick its head into. Brush grass and sticks around it do the trick for me

I use the H stands for trail sets so I suppose that gives me 2" off the ground

I bend the springs so they are pointed straight down so the trap is standing on them. Gives about 2" between the ground and the bottom jaw. Couple of sticks to stabilize. Quick and easy.

I make my own stands for 220. It has about 1 1/2" between ground and trap.

When I used 220s I had them set 4" to 5" off the ground. I added a 18" rod to my H stands for a stake and cut the legs on the H stand off at 6". Then I could stake and stabilize at the same time. I would stake and shove the H stand legs In to the ground about 1" that would also keep the trap from moving. The most Important part Is to fill the void under the trap jaws. If a coon has It's head down and see's an opening he may try to go under and when he can't he may go around. The space being filled acts as a head lifter. You don't want to force the critter through you It just moving naturally along It's trail. And the heights I came up with worked well for me. I have never had a reach In leg caught coon In trail set.
The most important part of trail trapping with BGs Is to have a minimum of trigger travel before that trap springs. You want those right behind the ears strikes.

Now we can't use 220s so I do the same with my 160s.

I know the law restricts it in Wisconsin, but the 220 when properly set as an unbaited trail set is just about as dog proof as you can get. Fill the void under the trap as the Beav suggests but do not block them over the top. Bird dogs, hounds and even beagles will go over the top every time if there is a clear opening. Very few coon will go over with just 2-4 inch spacing off the ground.

I paint camo. And do have swivels I chain.