So much like my "bucket list obsession" with catching a wolverine a couple of seasons ago - this season I will be focused in on catching a first lynx - and then we will go from there.
The KP is offering a limited six-week lynx trapping season, and I will be out there giving it heck.

I've always been more of a "snare man." The bobcats I caught back in MN years ago were mostly by snare, and a couple stuck their head in a #330.
Admittedly, my weak spot is leg hold. But I am committed to learning this art. My friend Len Fabich (Family Trapper) says there is a whole different thrill to arriving to a live cat, versus a dead, frozen one. I believe him

I'm interested to know - for those of you who pursue lynx with leg hold, what are your favorite traps, and why?
I was looking at Oneida/Victor #4 offset with 4 springs last night. Spendy, but they seem like they would do the trick.
I'm not opposed to spending some extra money for quality. Bridger and duke sometimes have a rep for cutting corners. The MB 750 that I caught the wolf in was all bent to heck, but it still held.
What's your experience?

Also interested in anything you have to teach me: scents, bait, locations (general things to look for) etc.

I hear beaver is the best bait. Since I don't have much for beaver down here in Homer, I'll likely get some from Minnesota where it is abundant and easy to catch. I have friends on it right now.

I'll be looking to carve out a niche likely somewhere between Homer and Soldotna. Biologists say the population is better the more that way I go. I figure, if I was willing to run all over creation in my boat to get a wolf and a wolverine, it's GOTTA be easier with my truck and a snowmobile, but I imagine there are always logistics and complications no matter where you go and how you get there. Having your snow machine break down or go through an ice flow is right up there with having your boat come off the mooring or wind up beached, I imagine!

The season is upon us, and I am fired up to start talking about it.

I use a combination of snares and #3 double spring Victor soft catches. I do get the odd few in body grippers as well. Good luck on fulfilling your goal.

I like #4 bridger LS . THe #4 not for the power but the huge paw size LS because in my opinion they don't freeze down as easily as coils and they are easier for me to set

When we had a contract for live lynx for a Colorado transplant I used Victor #3 soft catch which worked well.

MB 650

Mostly snares but for foothold I use vic #3 softcatch.
Not too hard to make them step where you want.

I run a bunch of those Duke #4 4coiled, got about 3 dozen of them, work great for the kitties and the beaver.

Check out Ted's Fur Shed and get some of that Meowuch! Pretty good stuff! Dobbins Purffect works pretty good to. For a call lure I use either skunky Backbreaker or just skunk.

Save those duck wings for attractors or get some wings from Ted. CD's are another good attractor along with pink tape.

Beaver for bait is good, but not needed, I'd suggest you get a hold of Ted and pick his brain, he puts up alot of kitties.

I used Bridger #3 and #2 four coiled. Best lynx trap IMO

Snares work great if you don' mind vermin damage/canibalized lynx

Goose wings work the best, duck and even pheasant wings work great. Add a bit of rabbit, fur pink surveyors ribbon . No bait or lure is needed. Baited/lured sets will increase the chances of having a non lynx in your set, but that could be a wolverine, here it usually means a fox

Can see my set in my video's on my sig.

Good luck

That's exactly what I'm looking for is something nice for the display. Cool cats!

I don't think I've used a long spring since I was a like 15. And I've certainly never used something that big. I may have to try a few and find out for myself.
The long springs - do you turn them to the sides when you bed the trap?
And your theory is because it is bigger and longer/less compact - it doesn't freeze down as much?

That's my buddy Len's favorite trap (family trapper) - so you are re affirming that. Good information.

aknome - any reason why MB? Just curious.

Boco I'm getting a lot of good information on this trap. Just curious if you have ever tried the #4. If so, did you find it too big.
One fellow trapper talked about bending the toes back on a 3# victor with four springs. Speaks to the power of the trap. Speaks to where the cat put it's paw.
I've just been weighing what to invest in, and juggling the #3 and #4 as a couple of primary interest.

John - I took a look at Ted's website yesterday per your recommendation. I will be placing an order.
I got the nephews back in MN getting me some Beav. Saving wings. I'm sure I will get a bunch of wings when I go back for my visit.

Have you ever used the Lynx stretchers that Ted sells?

Jeff I'm from the Kenai Peninsula. I know we've got a lot of coyote. Not much for fox. The occasional wolverine depending on where you are. But probably the biggest thing is lynx cannibalizing lynx, I'm guessing? Seems like I see that a lot on youtube videos where there are numerous lynx and they are hungry. I definitely want to employ footholds more than I ever have before. Right now it is more a matter of cost because I'm starting with nothing and at roughly $250 a dozen, they add up fast.

Ref the stretchers, I have not. I need to though, been using yote wire stretchers and card board. After seeing how he puts the kitties up I have a better grasp on using boards for them.

WH the area I live we get a lot of freeze thaw even with wax paper top and bottom coils seem to gather frost that turns to ice where the LS don't. I set with the trap dog in if possible sometimes things have to be turned and adjusted due to the size of the trap. It also helps when the wolverines come along. Mind now I am not a big cat trapper not a whole lot in my area but thats what works for me. Bad shoulders and small paws can make the coils a real pain for me as well LS over the knee problem solved

MB 650 is multi purpose. Good sized jaw spread for those big feet. Very good chance of a wolverine visiting set. I have no doubt they'd hold a wolf as well.

Never tried a LS #4 for cats WH,I know a few guys that did though and they trapped quite a few.

Tim I use Bridger #3 four coiled for kitties. As others have pointed out you are apt to get a wolverine on occasion. If I'm in a wolverine area I use my super #3's (heavier secondary springs and a spring retainer) as a wolverine will chew off the secondary springs and pull out if you don't have a spring retainer. However they are excellent wolverine traps when done that way they can't chew out like bigger traps. Give me a call and we can go over all the points of a set the way I do it if you want, my number is on my store site. Ted

Hi Tim, I am looking forward to the lynx season here as well. I use a lot of the 4 coiled #4 Dukes just for the fact of the lower expense. It doesn't take much to hold a lynx, they are not chewing animals and I have never had a trap disfigured from a lynx. I also use a fair number of #5 Bridger's for the jaw spread, that size of trap is not needed for holding power, but allow a much more "open" set where paw placement is less critical. That is the best tip I can give you for this area, Kenai lynx do not respond to fencing. Initially I tried the set type you will see in the interior or the YK delta that has lots of fencing and a square of branches around the trap for stepping sticks, and this has caught thousands of lynx in those areas, but here I got 100% refusals. As open as possible with barely noticeable stepping sticks was what I found works for me. Good Luck.

Bridger #3 for me. You don't need a lot of power to hold a lynx, but most of mine are 4 coiled for speed and laminated to be a bit easier on the critter. I night latch them and they are super fast. They are about the perfect size for cats. I've tried the 650, in my opinion they are a little more finicky due to the tiny amount of space under the frame/pan. They seem to freeze down and fail to fire more than the Bridger.

Bridger #3 four coiled seems to be the most popular trap out here for lynx, but are not to be expected to hold a wolverine long unless heavily modified. I may try the SVS #4 soon, or K9 Extremes.

We don’t get many lynx down this way, but... I have taken two in wolverine cubbies. The one foothold that has proven up to the task for lynx AND wolf and wolverine has been the No BS K9 Extreme. Zero damage to caught animals or the trap.
They are a bit pricey, but I invested one time and cannot imagine anything, aside from bear, damaging them in a catch.

I like the duke #3 for leg holds, snare cubbies with snares. I have started with #2s when I first started targeting them, started using #3s since we have wolverines here

If lynx were the only target a #4 longspring but,,, there's always the chance for a wolverine so I tend to go heavier! Sterling 600's,Newhouse#4's and 14 jumps hooked solid or big drags. For a couple of years a litter of wolves were hitting cubbies,, we caught most or they wised up.

I liked the 650s. Very strong and no room to chew on the foot under the jaws. Wolverine are chewers. Doubtful you'll find a frozen lynx in a snare down on the Kenai. Too warm. Might find a dead one with a green belly. If there's food in the stomach it will sour quickly after death. Might try cable restraints.

Thanks for all the replies. The overall pattern seems to be either #3 or #4, and then brand depending on preference.
I love to snare - but living here on the KP, I know about the warm temps. The last thing I want to see is a cat with green belly, or a cat that has been cannibalized.
It makes sense to me to catch them in a foothold, and keep them alive.
Traps are expensive! But I'm going to have to work hard on investing in a bunch of leg holds. I do enjoy trying different things, and coming up with my own preference.
Keeping my eyes open for used traps, but nothing really in my wheelhouse so far.
So will likely wind up buying as much as I can possibly afford. Get some variety.

yesterday I got a chance to scout some new turf in the afternoon from ATV. Some old logging roads.
Lots of scattered spruce and cottonwood/birch. Some alders, willow, and blueberry bush mixed in. But when you look at it, what you really see is lots of tall grass and fireweed.
I wonder about this habitat being good for rabbits and lynx? I really look forward to seeing tracks in the snow.

What do you guys find for good lynx and rabbit habitat?
It seems that where I live, I either have the mature rainforest across the bay and in the very mountainous areas, or, the foothills, which are tall grass/scattered spruce.
Generally speaking, the riverine areas look the best to me.

There sure was a lot of spruce grouse yesterday. I got a limit with my bird dog - no problem. It's what's for dinner.

I seem to have my best luck in drainages, especially those that go through thick spruce. Find the bunnies and you'll find the kitties I got a dozen of those Dukes you can borrow, hit me up next time your up in Anchorage.

I was going to say, where you find pockets of bunnies and grouse should give you starting points. I also find their tracks, although infrequent, at beaver dams and on huts, both active and inactive. Crossing points to hunt and vantage points, I figure.

I’ll second beaver dams/huts. Wolverine check those too.

Where I am 20 to 40 year regrowth after a forest fire or clearcut is core lynx habitat.But when they are at the peak of their cycle they are everywhere.

Little to no beav in my area. I have yet to see a beaver hut or dam south of Soldotna.
I wish they were here! I really enjoy trapping beaver and could use the bait, and the habitat they create.

This area I am looking at appears to have been clearcut. I would say the spruce were either left behind, or yeah - they are 20+ years old, but they are not thick. They are very scattered with some clumps here and there. Mixed in cottonwood and aspen that appear stunted. Lots of mature birch in there. I will attach some pictures to show you what I'm talking about.

Remember that the grassy areas should be snowy fields when Lynx season rolls around. As long as there are some decent clumps of trees to hold some hares or grouse that actually works to your advantage because it will concentrate their movements. As long as its not to isolated where they would feel to exposed getting to it, its tougher when you have a long stretch of featureless timber. No way to guess where they might move through and their nose is poor enough by animal standards they have to be pretty close to scent your set. Visual attractors work great in those more open areas too, it will pull them in better than a scent at distances. Get out when there is some snow to look for sign and find the thickets they frequent. In a more open country they will visit those thickets frequently because there are less choices to look for prey. Just my opinion FWIW. On another note I have never had a lynx cannibalized in a snare or 330, granted I have only caught 10 or so by those methods, but I think its related to the abundance of prey when we have our seasons. Also the reason in my opinion we have so many walk by's on the Kenai. Its tough to get their attention and make them commit when their belly is full. So I wouldn't be afraid of snares I use them to some degree, just cant find good places for them in my area, not many good trails. You just have to run your line more frequently to avoid the green belly issue. Feel free to call if you have other questions.

My favorite leg hold for cats is the scissor lock around their rib cage. With this hold you can also pin their front legs to their chest while you slip the paper bag over their head from behind. They never see it coming until it's lights out !!

An MB 550 held this guy, at least for a while. https://youtu.be/lLNnxccBpy0

For Lynx I use just about any foothold trap with a 6"-7" jaw spread.
I try to always hook them to something solid in case a Wolverine gets into them.