Looking for recommendations for a bench mounted chain sharpener, for chainsaw chain.

I’m starting to build up quite a collection of chains. I’ll run a file over them a couple times and then just replace them . I’ve tried most other sharpeners and methods so I’m wanting a bench mounted type to try.

Thanks!

I picked up one about 3 years ago at Harbor Freight (yes, it's Chinese, sad to say). They had 'em on sale, and IIRC, I paid $39 with the bs coupons. I've probably sharpened chains 500 times with it, and never had a problem. Brings 'em back better than new. Still need to do the rakers by hand. Takes maybe 5 minutes to do a chain. You need to periodically adjust all the settings, but I'd gladly do it again for the price.

Jack

If you run a file over them “ a couple of times “ and replace them you will not like the bench grinder . We use a file until the teeth start breaking off in numbers, each chain gets filed ten , twenty , thirty times ? Learn to file the depth gauges as you file the cutters and you will be much happier with the performance and longevity of your chain .

^^^This is what I was going to say.

I know this isn't what you want to hear, but I'm gonna post it anyway.
YouTube channel- Buckin' Billy Ray Smith https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsIFvStf9Oz99GMitW4vD_g

I've always hand filed, but after watching his videos, I won't do it any different way. My loops are sharper than they have ever been. (I've cut over 20 cord already this year- red oak, hard maple, ash, mostly)

The guy is a trip to watch and once you know his story, he's dedicated to his craft.

Good luck on finding the right bench mount if that's your goal. Can't offer any advice on that end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2-3ia-_knSs&t=539s

I dislike bench sharpeners. They take off so much each time from the cutters. You have to file the rakes every time. I use an air die grinder with a stone(you can get them in all saw file sizes.) Dip the stone in oil to keep it cool. Clamp saw in vise, and get a comfy rest to mind both your angles. I do one side, then flip the saw. Many times the rivets start getting loose before the cutters start getting short. I only have to file the rakes a little. I like to measure .020 height diff running in hardwoods. My .02 worth

I use the Oregon sharpener but replaced the grinding wheel with a CBN disk . The CBN disk has a finer " grit" lasts for years and hardly changes its geometry once you got it where you want it. You can not get a round grind sharper than that.

Got one from northern tool 10 plus years ago. It has performed flawlessly. First day I sharpened enuf chains to pay for itself. When you have the ability to easily sharpen chains, it changes your perspective. Some people will run a chain until it wont cut anymore. When you have the correct machine, the second you start feeling them not cutting "like new", change it out and keep on smiling. That "new chain feeling" can be all the time!

Is this guy on the comedy channel ? If he ever learns the proper way to sharpen a chain he should do a twenty minute apology to everyone he screwed up teaching that method !

When I worked for a county toad maintenace crew we cut a lot of brush in the winter, they bought us a nice Oregon sharpener and it worked great, that’s one of the things I miss most about that job, being able to sharpen my own chains. I’ve never been good with a file.

Beyond the original post, I would advocate learning to hand file.Its just more applicable out in the field.

I have had an Oregon for about 5 years.
I won't go back to a file.
I carry 3 chains with me all the time.
You don't need to take much off to be sharp.
Do the rakers every once in awhile and the chain is almost like new.

get this sharpener, does the rakers and teeth all at once.....Work amazing

https://www.amazon.com/Stihl-2in1-C...&hvtargid=pla-386239199401&psc=1

I like to hand file but it takes time and files these days don't last very long.
I picked up an electric grinder at a garage sale and I've found that when you use a grinder it tempers the teeth of the chain, making it nearly impossible to sharpen with a hand file.

In that case you are grinding to much off in one go or have to much pressure on the grinder. Dial it back a notch or two and the chain teeth will not get that hot. Also a CBN grinding disk helps a lot in that department. They are a little spendy though.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/CBN-Plated-5-34-x-316-Chainsaw-Grinding-Wheel-P1108C257.aspx

Wouldn't that reduce the temper?

What Scoob said I learned the "hard" way.
I only grind if I hit rock or metal.
I've ran two brands and neither were best.
I probably need a new wheel and or learn to dress them.

I have one of these, but it doesn't fit between the teeth on the chain that came on the saw. Are there chains that spread the teeth out more?

I bought the Stihl sharpener last winter. Best money you can spend on a saw. Have cut 20 cords this spring and fall, haven't taken a chain off either one of my saws. Sharpened one on the bench mount, cut a couple blocks off of some white oak, took it in and hit it two passes with the Stihl and the difference was very noticeable. It really works better if you can lock the bar in a vice. Learning curve was short even for me. mikec

you have to get one that is appropriate to your chain

.404. 3/8 (.375) .325 1/4 the chain pitch is the distance between rivets that sets the distance between cutters