I am thinking about switching my 160 raccoon blind setup, from the 2 wooden stakes or H-stands to a bracket welded onto a rebar stake.
I believe doing this will speed up the set making with less disturbance. I am looking at either the MB coni bracket or the stakelizer. Which of these options(or others) do you prefer?

Thank you

I bought these sometime back for my 160s, best stabilizer I've ever used for blind trail sets. This is the 160 size model. Very nice welded flat base with stabilizer rods and has a hole in end for cable or wiring your 160 to the stabilizer. I cable mine permanently so its all one unit, trap and stabilizer I can just wrap up chain and cable around legs of stabilizer and put several in a 5 gallon bucket.
These are made by blue valley trap supply in Pickrell, NE and I purchased mine through Scheels. You can buy them either in store or online.
These will last as long as the trap does for sure. Boil them with the trap too. Legs are nice thick steel and you can pound or step on them to drive the stabilizer into ground.
I have both sizes for 220s and for 160s.
Jim

H stands work for me. I cut off both legs at about 4" then I welded a 14" stake to the center of the H stand. Know you have a stake on your H stand and let me tell you this, a single stake will miss a lot of rocks. The 2 short legs will set your height and stabilize the trap from spinning. I liked to have my 160s about 4 to 5 inches off the ground.
There Is nothing faster then this set up. Place trap on stand shove It In the ground and walk away. Oh and remove safeties. LOL

Just keep in mind that any stabilizer that grips the jaws mean the trigger has to go on top........if that makes any difference to you.

I use standard H-stands more than anything, but I really like the KB stabilizer style. You can go dog up or down except with the smallest traps. KBs fit every trap size and holds the trap tight due to spring tension.


I’ve seen KB style welded to a stake, and I REALLY like that. I’ve never used them nor have I seen them available from distributors. I saw them on display at Minktober.

Nothing holds a bodygrip of any size more solid than two sticks the thickness of your thumb for the bigger traps and your finger for smaller ones.
Way more versatile also for height adjustment too.
And nothing extra to haul around-just cut off with the loppers at the trap site and shove in the ground.
Only obstacle would be ground frozen several inches deep,and by that time there is too much snow to set bodygrips on the ground anyway.

Not if you run this style of stabilizer.

The trouble with stabilizers that are on the jaws Is that all your traps aren't the same and some will fit just right and some will be to loose or to tight. That's why those MB coni clips suck.

Here's our setup

Cave man style of BG trapping. Why haul around some loppers when there may not be a limb to loop . Then of course you have to have a stake. You would play heck shoving sticks In the ground around here even if the ground wasn't frozen.

With the stakes incorporated on the stabilizer and the trap pre set on the stabilizer It's takes about 10seconds to place the trap and head back to the truck.

I'll set more traps faster than you and haul way less heavy "Junk".
Trapping is all about keeping things simple,but in many cases some "trappers" make all their money selling gimmicks to dupes.

1/2" angle iron with a MB bracket welded on top
BUT, ya gota keep ya pliers handy to fit them at times

ALSO

Have ya considered Sullivan Stabilizers? they are the cats meow on my 330's and he makes a smaller version, too.

should be in a couple of the 10-12 catalogs sposd to be on your desk already.

Here is my typical setup with 160s and blue valley stabilizer cabled together. Wrap the chain and cable around the stabilizer so its all one unit and grab and go as you set. Stabilizer is permanently attached to my 160s. I can fit 1/2 dozen or so in a bucket easy to store and use this way.
And yes I camo spray painted mine to hide them better from people.
Jim

160 cabled to blue valley stablizer...


Results. Im ways amazed at how well 160s work in tight narrow coon trails. No way this big boar would ever fit through, but it was too late before he realized that. Gets them right behind the ears every time.

Killer clips work good for me in culverts with wood bottems/sides.

Don't listen to Boco he has never run a major coon line with BGs LOL

How long are those pieces of rod that grap the jaws?

stakelizers are very fast they anchor your chain and they drive in easy. boco and his 2 sticks crack me up. he'll spend more time looking for sticks than he will setting traps .anyone catching numbers of coon is trapping out of the back of a vehicle so weight is of no consideration.

I use the same sticks in the same trails for years,no cutting,planting or carrying,only when making new sets.And when I trap I am also snaring so the loppers are always with me.never heard of having to "look"for sticks-they are everywhere,unless you set traps in the middle of grass field,and who would trap there with bodygips.lol.
You guys trap weird-seems the more complicated you can make something the better,when in actuality the opposite is true.
I guess thats why there are so many trapper trappers,lol.
Steer clear of all unecessary gimmicky junk and keep things simple.

Be great if he did creeks around here need brushing out

I am a horrible welder so I cheated. I take 2 by 2 inch by 8 ft. studs and cut them into 4-5 inch lengths. I then drill two holes in each piece of wood and put in 10 inch pole barn spikes. This keeps the trap from spinning or turning when touched. I then screw in the holder into the wood. This gets the bottom of my trap about 3-4 inches off the ground. I put the holder in the ground, set the trap and put a T-bar stake through the ring. I like these as they are light, cheap and I don't have all that metal framing that to me makes the trap more difficult to camo and to set. I dumped all in my logwood dye years ago after dying my canine sets so they are all brown in color.

Bryce