I have three stock 700s with adjusted trigger pulls between 2 lb 8 oz and 2-11. I have another with a Jewell trigger and another with a TriggerTech. All are sub 3lb triggers. I really can not appreciate the difference between the five 700s triggers. I can achieve good set up results with an older stock Rem trigger.

I have a stock Mountain Laminated 280 with a stock trigger that only shoots about a 1.75 group on a good day. Trigger pull is now 2 1/2 lbs. It also has the stock pressure point midway the barrel. I want to tweak this rifle for a tighter group but I realize the lightweight barrel has its limits.

Two questions: Would you remove the pressure point to free float the barrel? Would you do a trigger swap? The Mountain barrel is a very thin barrel. It is also stainless. I do not over heat it at the range. The barrel is free of copper and cleans easily. Can I expect more from a light weight barrel?

Where I hunt, shots can be 400 yards, but most are half that.

Suggestions please on pressure point and triggers. Scopes are all Leupold.

I realize I am asking trappers for rifle advice, but you guys are knowledgeable in many areas.

The free floated barrel might help. If the trigger is already that light, I do not think swapping will help. Might have to play with different ammo to shrink groups.

I have a Timothy trigger set at a pound on my Remington 700 mountain rifle 270 and can take out a quarter with every shot out to 200 yards.

You could add in a small piece of wood easy enough if you have any wood working skill at all after you take out the pressure point. I have never had to.
I notice you dont see pressure points now that plastic stocks are so common. Those molded stocks reduce the need for hand fitting like was needed with wood stocks to get good bedding and a free floated barrel.

Have you tried tightening the bolt that pulls the action down into the stock? I always try tightening and loosening that bolt to see what happens if I have precision issues. On rivers, you really have to have it tight. That can have a big effect. Other than that, bedding and free floating is always a possibility. The trigger is pretty light. Short light barrels should still group better than 1.75” if you get everything else right, even without messing with free floating.

The one I had really liked just a thin brass shim just ahead of the recoil lug. I had every intention of glassing in the action and floating the barrel. The shim was merely a what if type of free floating to check before I dug the hole. It worked well enough that the shim was still there when I sold her.

If you follow the directions you can adjust a Remington 700 trigger down to 1.5 lbs and still be very safe.

Now if you've still decided to tackle adjusting your 700 trigger here is how you do it. Check to make sure the chamber is empty before anything else. You'll want to gather some penetrating oil, an Allen wrench set, precision screwdriver, and Elmer's glue. I also recommend a trigger scale to make things as accurate and safe as possible.

First thing, remove your barreled action from the stock. Use a 5/32" Allen/hex wrench. Remove the front screw three-fourths of the way. Then remove the rear screw all the way. Make sure you remember that the long screw goes in the tang area, and the short one goes in front of the receiver.

After the barreled action is out, use a penetrating oil to soak the three trigger screws. If the trigger has never been touched before, there will be a sealant on the screws. Simply scrape it off before applying the oil. Let the oil soak 10 minutes or so. You'll then want to turn the screws in and out three or four times so that you make sure there is no binding.

You will then want to back out all three trigger screws two or three turns, careful not to back them out so far the springs fall out of place. You simply want to take the tension off the internal springs. You will then work the bolt. Slowly start turning the sear engagement screw, located on the back side of the trigger, in until the sear releases and the firing pin drops. Back it out exactly one half a turn.

Next, the over-travel will need adjusted. This screw is located on the top front of the trigger above the pull-weight screw. Do not rec0ck the rifle. You will want to turn it inward until you feel resistance. When properly adjusted, the slop will be taken out of the trigger and it will move back and forth very little. Do not over tighten. Though the travel will be reduced, the pull weight will not be able to be adjusted. If not turned in enough, the pull can be adjusted lighter, but it will be very sloppy and unpredictable.

You are now ready to rec0ck the gun. Use the trigger scale and see how heavy the weight is and if its to your liking. If not you will have to adjust the pull-weight screw, below the over-travel screw. Inward increases the weight and outward lightens it. Trial and error will get it to the point that is to your liking. As soon as its to your liking, you will want to try it approximately 20 times. Work the bolt quickly as if you were going to in the field. This will show you if the sear will accidentally release or not. This could be disastrous. You'll want to make sure the pull-weight is consistent and without slop or excessive over/under-travel. You'll shoot better groups with a 3 lb trigger that is consistent rather than a 1 lb trigger that isn't.

After you are convinced everything is set where it should be, take the Elmer's glue and put a few drops over the screws. I use Elmer's because it will stop them from creeping out of adjustment over time but will be easy to remove if you so wish to change your weight for a different application later on. Finger nail polish and lock-tight compounds are more difficult to remove, but effective. Allow the glue to dry fifteen minutes.

You'll then want to put the thing back together. Slide the barreled action back into the stock. Put in the front (short) screw first and turn in half way. Then put in the tang screw and turn in all the way tightly. Then turn the front screw the rest of the way. If you have an HS stock, you'll want to put them in 65 in-lbs. If you have a wooden stock, many have different ideas on how tight to turn them, but that is not a discussion for here and now. After all is tight, check the trigger pull for safety against ADs. I slam the butt stock of the c0cked rifle down on the floor 10 times or so to make sure it won't go off. I managed to set this rifle at 1lb 4oz. This rifle does have an after-market firing pin system with an upgraded c0cking piece which helps with consistency and weight.

Thanks. My feeling is that the trigger weight is not a problem. The way I deer hunt from elevated stands, I normally have plenty of time to settle in for a shot. Never had a problem in the field but when at the range, I wish I could tighten my groups. Don’t mean to employ that I have never missed, because I have. We all have if you have hunted 50-years and shot 250+ whitetails.

Every hunter wants smaller groups.

True we all want smaller groups.Most of all my shooting is off hand in the woods using a tree for a rest when possible and the 1 pound trigger pull is huge for me.

Bruce, I am surprised that you want a light pull for shooting as you described. I shoot from sand bags very often. Do you often get running shots? Can you manage a light trigger with gloves? Sounds like you can.

I once had a premature fire when I reached for my rifle while it was resting in the window. My hand hit the trigger. I was wearing bulky gloves. Lessened learned. Was a nice buck also.

do you handload the ammo for this rifle?

Tracking in the snow mostly running shots.Hate a heavy trigger pull that most off the shelve rifles have.When I lightly pull on that trigger I want the rifle going off then not keep putting more and more pressure on the trigger.My shot groups really shrunk when I went to a lighter trigger pull.I wear thin light gloves when hunting or no gloves when I can.

can't say if it will but I would free float the barrel

glass bedding the action would be next if it isn't already done

a rock solid action to stock with a folded for 2 thicknesses dollar bill free float

some rifles make more change than others with free float

Thinking that is what I should do. I agree.

My 700 7mm STW evolved to a Bell Carlson hunter stock and a 1lb Timney match trigger. It will shoot way beyond my capabilities.

A 3lb trigger with no creep should be all a good hunting rifle needs for accuracy work. You may have a gun that will shoot only one brand of BULLET (not loaded factory ammo). I have an original 700 Classic in 7x57 caliber. It's almost a one holer with Speer anything. But nothing else.

I agree with Pete
check the action bedding points

I'd remove the center pt bedding, and put it about 2" from the end of the stock, like they taught us in gunsmith school for true 3 pt bedding. (rear guard screw-front guard screw-end of stock)
I think that thin barrel needs a resting place up front as opposed to free floated

Doesn't Mrs Chas have some lip stick you can paint on the action to see where it hits the stock?

Your best option would be to sell it to me. I am a HUGE 280 fan! 😁 Have you tried different bullet weights and brands? A 2 inch gun is not acceptable IMO.

Like mentioned above bed the action. Go about a inch past the recoil lug and make sure to free float the barrel. There is nothing wrong with the older style Walker triggers, probably the best factory trigger ever made imo. The problem is every idiot with a screwdriver thinks he can adjust one and never takes the time to check his work to make sure it's set correctly