Hi folks! Would anyone be willing to critique my box? I've got 40 of these tubes so I'd like some input before cutting into all of them.

Slats are 5/8 inch wide... they seem snug enough to hold the trap well when cranked down but not tight enough to hinder the trap firing. The holes on the sides and back are 3/8 inch.

Marten are the main target so belisle 120s were my choice. I've chosen to use the expandapan conipan in order to open things up a bit since there are also plenty of fisher in the area.... I'm not quite sold on it though. I've only picked up a couple of traps and pans so far, so don't hesitate to suggest something different. The only thing I'm really committed to at this point are the paper tubes- They're light weight and stack super snug which is important for my situation.

Please feel free to rip these apart... I've got plenty of time and want to consider everything.

Thanks a ton!

I would cut the spring slots deeper so you can set your trap 4-6 inches in front of the bait at back. In this situation the animal is stable at the bait, not moving thru or jumping over the pan going to the bait. A mink or marten will be standing on the pan with their front feet, or bumping it with their head/neck, and fisher will bump it with their chin/chest, while working the bait. This results in a quick humane dispatch virtually every time.

Oh right on! I'll try that out. I'm not sure how much farther I can set that trap with the taper of the boxes but I'm sure I could get at least another couple inches.

Thanks!

I dont cut them deeper than that. I want to catch the ones that choose not to go all the way to the back of the box. Especially if I use them on mink.

Appears you have the 155 size tube. The 120 tubes are snug. I
Use 155 size traps in that size box, but I doubt it would effect much.

I use wood pans or corrugated plastic from campaign signs. I get a lot of weasels in them and believe they increase my catch.

I know quite few people use newspaper boxes but I've never known where you get them. I'm assuming you don't just gather them up along the road at night.

How are you hooking them to the tree? Just a nail at the front of the box? If you cut a bunch of strips of wood/plywood the right width for the jaws of the trap to fit snugly over and then screw them to another strip of wood in a T shape you can use that to hold the box and the trap both without even needing notches, although I think the notches are a good idea, myself.

Oh didn't think about that. I doubt too many marten would hesitate, but I'm sure fisher would... Some recommend flipping that trap around so the more sensitive part of that expandapan is facing the entrance. Thoughts? For me, marten trapping is restricted to just a couple weeks so I'd like to better my chances the best I can, but I'd rather not end up with poor catches either.

If you'd like the info, shoot me a PM. I have a wonderful contact at continental products!

I love that anchoring idea! I actually intend on setting these on the ground though. We can't have critters suspended in NY, even with body grips so there isn't a whole lot of benefit to setting in trees. That's partly why I chose 120s, a 5x5 trap is the largest we can have on the ground. I just prefer those belisle 120s over any of the 155s I've seen. This being said... I do plan on staking them with a tbar right through the middle of the box... just to help it remain solid on the ground.

I believe in NY you can go larger than 120/155 above ground as long as a caught animal is not suspended.. I.e. chain or wire allowing captured animal to fall to the ground.

Oh yes! But they need to be at least 4 feet up. Personally, I just don't see a huge advantage of having a 160 or 220 4 feet up vs a 120/150 on the ground. My opinion would probably be different if they could be suspended to prevent damage though.

If you want bait close to trap without trap deep in tube cut tube in half and cover back opening with 1/4" screen. Cut tab around screen that can be folded over outride of tube and screw them down with short wafer head screws(2 each tab). I screw two 3" wood screws up thru bottom of the about 1" from back to spike bait onto, they also keep tubes from nesting too tight that screen locks them together. Standard tube front half fits 155's and back half(not screened) fits 110's(I use for mink'mrats). Super tubes fit 160 F/155B. This is of coarse if you can meet any trap opening/setback regs you have.

Forget about that plastic junk and make yourself some sturdy wooden boxes with worn out beaver boards and 1 inch rough lumber.

The large slots the red squirrels seem to chew them, had to go to 1/4 inch hardware cloth in them.
Not necessary for all those holes drilled in the boxes;
just fill the back of the box with moss then your bait

if you look at BCtomcats at his trap placement. These are rotating jaw traps and have to rotate to go off. When you put them at the back of the box they spring forward and not an ideal capture.
They are slick in placement, with a fender washer and screw.
My first placement always use a milk crate to gain a foot higher on the tree....snow does build up during the season.

Correction; when the springs are put back against the end of the slots they wiil spring forward and may results in poor catches. Placing your trap spring an inch to 1 1/2 inch before the end of the slot will greatly reduce the propelling of the trap by the spring. Yet, when the trap is fired the springs will still hit the end of the slots without losing significant striking power or jumping over the animal. The position of the trap in the picture previously shown results in a perfect humane strike every time, as shown in the catch pictures.

I much prefer wood boxes but rarely use them because I have to bring them all in each season or bears destroy them.

Yes, wood boxes might be nicer but if you have haul them with all your other needed gear long distance to put out for a six day season(now slightly longer for us) and have to pull them back in because most are on public lands it is nice to have three compact stacks of 12 tubes(and storing them till next season). I have tubes over twenty years used. Each trapper has to choose logistics that can work for them best.

Never have much trouble with bears as long as you drop the bait on the last run-and our area is likely the highest density of bears in North America.
Occasionally have trouble with bears in the odd year they are out late in November.But wooden boxes can easily be made bearproof by utilizing a bait plate.cant do that with plastic box.
You couldnt pay me to use plastic marten box-the bait dont like them,the traps dont like them,the weather dont like them and the marten dont like them either.
Worst of all plastic doesnt belong in the bush,and is out of place there.

Would you be willing share some pictures of your boxes? You really nailed it for me... marten trapping is quite the venture out of town. It's about a 5 hour trip and we've got 48 hour checks so I'm really limited to just a few days off of work. Lightweight and easy is my #1 priority while still ensuring good humane catches. It's all public land as well so I can't leave anything when I'm done. I like wood boxes, but they just aren't practical.

I very much appreciate the input! I'll be cutting my slots deeper in the future. Glad I made this post before cutting all of them.

Can't argue with you there, Boco! I appreciate your feedback. Wood would be nice, but it's just not practical for me. Boxes are only out in the woods for a week or so, then they're back in storage for a couple years between trips. Hopefully the marten don't hate them too much.

I have wood boxes I use and like Boco. But here we are supposed to pull them all end of season, and hauling in and putting up wood boxes on a snowmachine each year is a pain, and space intensive.

That doesn't mean I don't see old wood boxes in places out in the woods that have been there for years, but my luck mine would be the one the warden would have nothing better to do than wait until I came back the next year to put a trap in it and I don't want the hassle.