That's what it was then my scraper wasn't sharpened enough. What kind of scraper do you use Boco.

These all work but the second from the left is superior.
They gotta be sharp like a fleshing knife.

Are the three with the wood handles hand made?

Yes.The two on the right are very hard steel-I use them more for dry scraping in summer to thin hides for tanning.
Softer steel is better for frost scraping easy to quickly touch up with a file when doing lots of skins or bigger skins like bear or moose.
The cree often use an adze to frostscrape large thick moosehides.They dont use it like an adze is used for hewing wood,it is used as a scraper.
I prefer the oval shaped scraper,since I can use the sides for more agressive scraping on thicker meat/leather,and then use the flatter part to smooth out the ridges.

I'm going to thin the leather tomorrow morning again in the middle so its nice and pliable for when I tan it. I'm also planning on making a scraper like your oval one this summer or when I get time.

Pretty easy to make,Northerntrapper-do a bit of experimenting and you will come up with a great tool.
On another note-you can use those bell type or stirrup type scrapers(zepf or post,the cheap ones dont work) to frostscrape,as long as you sharpen them correctly from the outside only.They tend to chatter on the leather a bit more when the temps are marginal but work fine when cold enough.

When sharpened correctly on the outside, how sharp should they be? Finger-cutting sharp or just sharp to the touch (with a burr)? I will probably know once I start in on it but just checking with the Grand Master of Frost-Scraping.....Boco!

Thanks!

Moosetrot

Sharp like a fleshing knife,with the edge bur turned.A file is sufficient to establish/turn the burr.You should be able to feel it with your thumb or finged,and will know it right away when you start scraping,since it will "bite" with little presure.
If not sharpened correctly or when dull it will just glide across the hide or you will need to apply pressure to get it to scrape(that will tire you out).
When everything is correct(scraper and temps) frost scraping is effortless and large areas of the hide is cleaned in a few seconds with a few strokes.
If I knew how to make videos I would make some.
Much easier to demo than try to explain.

Boco I was looking for your tanning thread a little bit ago and couldnt find the one I was thinking of. It wasn't the tanning a fur skin one it was the other one.

Not sure,might be in the archive somewhere.

Turns out it was the thread that I stated earlier and just remembered it wrong.

XXXL big old grisselback,frostscraped,thawed trimmed and boarded.

Nice clean pelt nicely done BOCO

Boco your using those sharp point landscaper nails ?? If so best ive ever found, rounded heads

I like those nails-easy on the boards.They do tend to bend but easy to straighten.

Beaver I just finished scraping

Nice and clean RKH,looks like you're gonna tan that one by the skinning

Finished thinning the leather in like half and an hour after sharping the scraper. Making one is definitely on the list,

Boco u said u thinned a beaver almost as thin as a fox hide. Don't u get into the hair roots when u thin that much?

Depends on the primeness.You have to be more careful on early caught fur as the hair roots grow deeper into the skin.
I stop scraping when I see the shadow of the hair roots in the skin.
BUT,you have to be careful not to overscrape a prime hide because the hair roots arent as noticeable.That said,prime skins need a lot less thinning anyway.
Its a matter of experience same as using any fleshing tool.