I saw a tube video, I just wondered if anyone on the forum uses it?

thanks

Occasionally. I keep a few in my bag if I'm in soil that doesn't cooperate for my normal bedding. I've used sticks in a pinch

Ive done It. And If you go that route get those pole barn spikes. If you want the nail deal to work you need at least 6" and 10 " would be better. And you need to cut off the heads.

Yes, I’ve used 3.5 inch 20 penny nails. If I get into digger raccoons. They’re still there after the catch where you put them. It works.

Great flicks.

isnt that what's called Bill Cundiff Power Bedding?

can't see above videos, and think I remember Bills book bout 20 yrs ago?

It was maybe In the early 80s when I was In Pa at a convention. There were 2 old dudes from New York who showed me that system.
But they just drove one nail right in the corner where the jaw met the spring lever on the dogged side of the trap . Then they drove a nail against the loose jaw then rotated the trap against those 2 nails and drove the 3rd nail where the jaw met the spring lever on the dogged side of the trap. But thy used wooden dowels instead of nails.

I think he just pounded the dirt back tight against the trap jaws and the trap frame. I don't think he used nails.

There's several versions of it. One that used to get shown around here involved using a carriage bolt that held down the baseplate and a piece of wood cut at a 45* angle was pounded in against the dog jaw.

Almost all my coyote trapping happens by places people drive, so I would never use nails.

Then just use wood dowels. And you can leave them stick up through your bedding too act as foot guides.

The first video made sense to me. The second not so much. Good videos though.

Good idea.

That’s what I often do. Just depends.

Doesn’t it seem like the screws angled over the jaws would slow the trap down?

Thought that as well, but apparently not. I’d definitely be doing some practice sets to satisfy my doubts, lol. Luckily we don’t deal with freeze/thaw weather, just massive amounts of rain!!

The second video got me though. If you’re going to push the dogged side against the deck, then just bed like you would for the Pipe Dream set and push the dirt towards the loose jaw. I get deer tracks on my loose jaw quite often and my sets don’t budge. I’d rather have just a deep bed for water than wanting peat moss to soak it up.

I use waxed sand which beds quite firmly. The loose jaw is usually the biggest issue. I’ll often use my hammer to pound the sod back towards my trap jaws to firm it up. The waxed sand is still between the sod and the jaws, but it still works well. I can see where a dowel under the jaw would be better than my usual solution of putting a rock under it.

I’ll have to play around with some dowels through the levers. That may be interesting. Especially if left slightly proud to guide.

Thanks for posting the videos Hern.

When I use nails. They freeze in below the set. The chain spins above the trap bed. All four nails are always right where I pushed them in. Pull them out and move on. I can’t say I’ve ever lost a nail power bedding. Until you actually try it many people don’t believe it works. No worry of tires getting ruined. I trap all farm country. I wouldn’t leave nails out to irritate the landowners.