Im looking for getting some more mole traps. Since the new OOS traps are junk what do you guys recommend? Im between Fenn and Talpex right now but am open to other scissor trap brands. I have held the new OOS and they aren't even comparable to the old ones. I have a couple gopher hawks, but I am not totally sold on those yet. Also thinking about the step on scissor traps.

I like Steve's traps and No-mole. Just have never got much with OOS. JMO

For price, efficiency, size and, weight I switched to Trapline mole traps many years ago. Once you get on to good trap setting mechanics they are hard to beat. I can carry several dozen in a 2 gallon bucket with my other tools and flags. 2 doz. Trapline traps weigh about as much as one OOS trap.

They are killer traps with a good track record. Double catches are frequent using them as well..

All mole traps work once you get on to setting each one effectively. I haven't used an OOS or Spear type traps since I developed my trap setting system for trapline traps.

No mole traps are too long and big for my likes but they also work fine with some practice with them. It comes to preference and how effectively you learn to set each type of trap.

Just a question... how much would you be willing to pay for a high quality trap similar to the OOS that would be made in America? I think there would be a big market for a quality scissor trap that’s made in America. But to answer your question, I would go with Steve’s traps. I think they are just as good as OOS but they both have their pros and cons. Not one trap is necessarily the best for everyone.

Another vote for Steve's or No mol. No mol if you have sandy soil.

OK I’m not a pro but my neighbors worship the ground I stand on.The Nash mole trap will turn an idiot into a pro.Slit the ground with a knife for the two loops.

Size, weight, cost and effectiveness. Those are all good points to consider when gearing up for commercial mole control traps.

Learning the most effective setting techniques for your device is obvious in that mix of importance.

A good (mole) trapper can kill moles with just about any GOOD trap.
I have learned that long ago.
That said, some traps perform better due to soil conditions and depth of runs.

"A good (mole) trapper can kill moles with just about any GOOD trap.
I have learned that long ago" there is truth in what you say Brocephus....I use 3 styles of traps out here in wash state, out of sights,steves traps (2 sizes), and gopher hawks,....each and every one make me money., ive learned to use each one for maximum efficiency, time is money, and miles cost gas, those that know, know what I'm talking about, I do have the advantage of being into landscaping, on a smaller scale than I use to be, it opens up a lot of avenues, and remember, I'm in a state where its technically illegal, so I have to walk a thin line at times

You really have to plan your route, in the beginning 7 years ago, I would go anywhere to trap moles to get the experience, now I tell customers 2 counties over, they have to wait until I have 5 other calls in that region, you have to explain the costs, when you do travel out of area, bring a lot of traps, and set heavier than you would close to home, you have no choice, if you charge by the mole like I do

Just my 2 cents...

The plunger spike style traps are best for me. The new Victor ones on the market now though are almost junk...so weak compared to the old ones.

I haven't bought any OOS in a while, but it sounds like you guys are saying the new OOS aren't like they used to be.

Victor must have went to heck as far as quality goes...

Your conditions dictate your choice of trap, and they multiply with commercial trapping. Consider:

Rocky or rooty ground
Sandy soil
Shallow or deeps runs
Pets
Children
Proximity to traffic (pedestrian or mowing)
Potential for thieft
Setup time available
Trap cost
Portability

I use only 3 styles, with Steve's being the most applicable, and the P1 the most fun.

As for those with the weak-springed spear traps, just add a short compression spring from Ace Hardware. Keep the spears shiny and the stakes rusty.

They do work ok, but I find they get bent easy.
They work better once I figured out 1 of those flat bar tree planting tools makes a nice slot. I feel like a bucket almost needs to be placed over them, especially if rain is forecasted.

Having used most of the available mole traps in my career I have caught moles with them all. Once you get on to the best and most effective setting techniques for you then you will come to the same conclusion as to which you prefer.

After saying that it comes down to size, weight,versatility and ease of setting . Practice with a couple different types and go with what you feel best suits your method.

The Trapline traps as most of you know is all we use and have for many years now. I will use a spear or a OS to keep in practice every now and then or when instructing a student. That way someone can learn your method of setting with the best results.

Speed, effectiveness and ease of setting will become your priority as well as you become a busy professional. Part time or hobby trapping gives you more time to tinker in most cases so time is not as a critical factor. When you are setting 25 - 40 traps or more per job it is essential you learn to read the sign well and set as fast as good technique will allow you to do so..

Trapline traps allow for double catches for each set up since 2 traps are placed at each location. Double catches help clean out a bit faster when you are dealing with the high population jobs as we have in many cases in our service territory.

With Albano's trap---how do you know if you have a mole in the trap, unless you dig up the trap?

With Albano's trap---how do you know if the trap is set-off, unless you dig up the trap?

Other than Albano himself, I think Bob Jameson is probably the Trapline Mole Trap guru. I have success with them but only when the soil conditions on the bottom of the tunnel are right. If it's sandy, there will be a dig under so I like a good hard sod bottom when using them. OOS is still ny go-to right now.

I cut out a section of sod the size I need to set two traps back to back. About ( W 4" x L 8" ) right over the selected tunnel. Once I set the two traps fixed with braided wire tethers I push a tether wire thru both tether loops with a flag on top to anchor both traps and the flag marks the set up. Replace the sod to cover the tunnel cut out to keep out light and air flow. Move on.

To check each location I just pick up the sod plug that sits over the run and check for the traps to be fired. I then move on to the next flag etc. Very fast and effective. No digging up the traps or digging of any dirt. I rarely set in bare ground conditions most always in a sod lawn. When I pulled the traps I simply re place the cut out sod back over the run and step it down to engage with the soil once again so there is no lawn growth disruption.

Jason to prevent dig unders as you are experiencing at times Simply cut some luan plywood in narrow strips the width of your mole run and push them down into the tunnel bottom and push a little tunnel dirt/sand over the piece of luan and set your trap on top of the insert with adequate dirt cover to allow bedding of your traps.

Cut your luan pieces about two inches longer then your Trapline traps length.

I drill a hole the size of a 16 penny nail width into the center of the luan piece and then run a 16 penny nail down thru the hole and press the luan piece into the tunnel run to hold it into place.

This will prevent the dig unders. Once you have done this a few times it comes very easy the next time around you need to do it. I usually don't share my personal training tips on line but here is one that should help you. I always carry a few cut luan pieces and nails when and if I run into those odd ground conditions up North where we trap.

If you run into poor ground conditions like sandy, non sodded or mulch bed areas I also carry cut out pieces of heavy plastic or weed block fabric with landscape pins to cover my trap setting incisions to block out the light and air flow. I cut out these plastic sheeting or fabric pieces large enough to do a good cover job of the set up area. I have used roof shingle pieces also if I have them. I have also used bricks or the right size stones lying about the job site if necessary.

Thanks. Good info

I have a question for those that sometimes use the old vertical plunger spike style traps: how do you like to set the adjustable pan? I catch a lot with these traps, but I do get misses & would like to reduce those misses. I just missed 1 on a run that I feel like I should not have missed it. Maybe sometimes they get hit but get away, I don't know.

Bob:
If I cut the luan 2 inch longer than the trap. Do I want the extra 2 inches on the spring end or the tong end of the trap.? Also do you insert the luan on top of the soil and cover it up or push the laun under the soil in the run?
Thanks for all the good information!

I place the extra length extending out from the jaw end of the trap. That is your approach to the trap and the direction the mole is entering the trap set position. That is where there dig under reaction is determined.

In some cases you may need to experiment with a longer length however that is the length I have determined works well for my trapping in our soil conditions. I scrap or dig out a bed for the luan to get it below the tunnel grade and also allows me to cover with the soil or sand to allow good bedding of the trap. Our soil is dense but sand may allow easier positioning of the insert so you may find it much easier to bed the insert then with heavy loam soil. Just make sure you pin the insert down well to anchor it as needed.

You can also experiment with placing the insert on a slope a little deeper on the jaw side of the trap. That will help better guide the mole up into the jaws more easily.

I believe some don't bed the front of the trap jaw frame deep enough and the moles detect the lower jaw frame first or the jaws are not aligned properly in the center of the mole tunnel.

Then they perceive this as a blockage of some kind and choose to divert their travel route under and away from the obstruction. Most all moles will choose to dig under an obstruction rather then go up and over it. I have had a few that have done the dig up and over behavior over the years but the dig under reaction is the higher percentage by far.

Thanks for the information Bob. I will sure give it a try.

I found that using wire tethers on traplines can cause dig unders, I very early on changed them over to braided nylon that we use for ferret net draw cord.
When you use wire sometimes when you pin the tether down with a wire flag/maker pin when you back fill the soil packing it down too hard it causes the trap to twist or lift even if you bed the front down as instructed, meaning the mole finds the trap, packs it with soil or digs under it. As the nylon braided cord is very flexible you don’t disturb the taps set when you backfill.
My tethers are about5 inch long and also allows me to thread them onto a bar to hang in my moving bucket without them all getting tangled.

I bought 50 mole whackers today from Viking. Looks like he took advantage of victors brain fart. Excited to get them and try them out.

Joey - Please get back to us once you get a chance to try them out. My main interest would be their use along foundations and privacy fences. Their built in setters might pose a problem regarding sets that hug these type of main mole runs. Spring strength, of course, would also be a big interest. They seem to be all galvanized steel and USA made according to their website. Good luck with them. Let us know please.

Thanks for the info Joey. Just ordered a doz. I have a mole in my own yard that will be the new trap test subject. He has been getting on my bad side. Lol

How about this, I’ll make a YouTube video review and post it when I’m done.

They shipped today and I have a mole job scheduled for whatever day they arrive. I’m out of good victors at the moment. I wish I could do something with the couple dozen junk ones I have. I’d feel bad even giving them away lol.


As far as the built in setters being a problem against structures, worse case scenario I cut them off a few of them and use victor setters. I always have an angle grinder in the truck.

Got my Vikings today Joey. Interesting little trap. Raining a bunch tonight so it might be a day or two before I set them out.

I like it. I don’t think it is as strong as the old OOSs. I set a dozen yesterday. Will update you all this weekend. The trigger is definitely more sensitive. It will set off under its own weight which the OOSs don’t do (at least mine don’t). Which means it doesn’t need to be planted in the ground.

I think a solid method going forward is to use an OOS to cut the trench for the jaws and then setting the whacker in it.

Looking forward to the update. Yep not as strong but the jaws are thinner so maybe it doesn’t have to be? We’ll see. Kinda wish it had a safety hook like the oos.

I set 3 of the whacker traps yesterday. Got my first 6 in this week. So far I like them. A little different setting with built in setters after used to using the OOS. Mine were a touch sensitive like you were saying Joey, not a bad thing necessarily . Not as robust feel as the OOS but time will tell, if they don't break like the new junk OOS and they catch moles that's all I care about. Price point very reasonable.

Success.

Had one set off with nothing as well.

Will put video together tomorrow if time allows.

WTG Joey!!! I got one set today in the mud.

Well my one and only mole set got one. I’ll set up a job with these Vikings on wed.

Alright. I’m sold.
Was a much better catch than it looks but it fell out a bit when pulling it from the ground. Trap had been there since last Wednesday and it’s rained quite a bit since then.

I love the trapline mole trap however when running 100 plus mole stops per week...those traps eat up alot of time checking...so not a feasible trap for our system because of the quantity of stops

Hey Josh, I agree 100% with you on that. Any idea what direction your going to go trap wise now that oos are practically unuseable?

Both of you should check out the mole whackers in the last few posts here. They are basically OOSs.

I have enough old school out of sight traps to last me through my mole career (about 300) I'm 59, do the math, any new traps I buy are steves or gopher hawks, those 3 traps allow me to to my job and make return customers happy.....I'm usually slow in july and august and busy as (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) in the fall and spring, Ive been busy as (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) this summer, its true you have to work harder in the dry conditions, but I hate to tell a customer to wait until sept....Bob Jameson is spot on with his info as always.....Best advice I can give, if Bob talks about moles, you listen

Far as the gopher hawks, use your probe to find the angel of the cleanout hole coming up to the mound, the thompson moles here in washington state, always come up at an angel, the pacific moles not always, follow that probe to the main run, and start probing with your probe, with the gopher hawk, you dont dig, you make a tunnel down to the tunnel with a bigger probe, they do work, I may do a video at some point, again, they are only one of the tools in my bucket.....Every one of them produce as good as the other, the gopher hawks are a quick set up, the downside is you dont get a visual of the tunnel, having said that, they keep up mole for mole with victors and steves traps

They do cost more, and maintenance issues are definatley there (the catch bands are prone to be disfigured and need to be reformed, and over time they break and have to be replaced) again, its 6 of one and half a dozen of another, but I wouldnt buy more if they hadnt earned there keep, I wish we had gophers here, I could quit my day job

Sorry mods, I forgot about the swear filter, I meant to say heck

I did catch some gophers up north last year, after you dig your tunnel hole down with that bore tool, before you place the gopher hawk, drop in some oily peanut butter, trust me

I'd like to see such a video

I'm guessing I've caught about 25,000 moles over the years. Most using the OOS old design not the cheap new aluminum ones. I like the little woodie tom Schmitt put out years ago. I modified some of mine with a PVC pipe under the pan for those long dry spells.