Busted a screw head off. Broke the Harbor Freight LH bit. Got it drilled out, but busted the HF extractor in it.

Anyone know where I can get good tools for the job, instead of this chineseum crap?

I have the speed out set I bought at Lowe's. Never had a problem and have used 5 or six times. Can't see anywhere on the box where it says country of origin/made

Best thing you can do is throw all that easy out crap in the iron pile, and use a welder to weld onto the screw, bolt, whatever. I could show you the way I've used for over fifty years, and can't remember not being able to get one out!

Yup...what Lee said....mig weld a pile of snot on that broken bolt....then grab it with some vise grips and walk it out.

Mcmaster.com will have quality stuff. Don't know if they have a warehouse near you but I get everything next day - sometimes same day.

I agree with what's been said here. Welding an nut is probably the easiest solution. But sometimes you can't get enough clearance, the fastener is too small, or it's the wrong type of metal. Then an E-Z out is plan B.

I like these for small screws up to #10: https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-extractors/combination-extractor-drill-bits-6/
and these for everything else: https://www.mcmaster.com/screw-extractors/straight-flute-extractors-7/
straight flute extractors work 100X better than the spiral type.

Plan C is drill it out so that only the threads are left and use a tap/needle nose pliers to remove the threads. To do this, you need to have your drill perfectly centered. Really hard to do.

Plan D is drill it out to a larger size and tap the hole for the next larger screw. If you can't use a larger screw, drill, tap, and install a helicoil. https://www.mcmaster.com/helicoils

I have had good luck drilling and tapping the square, tapered end of a chain saw file into the hole, and twist it off with a crescent wrench.
Old Eskimo trick.

Vermont America makes drill bit, taps, dies and such. I know they make extractors also. Good American company and decent prices.

Whatever you do, don't use the spiral type "easy out" they generally just strip and don't work. Get the square, tapered ones, and the the right bit. When buying bits for this type of work get the most expensive and generally the hardest bits you can find; generally cobalt (not necessarily the brand, but the material).
Use some heat if necessary and some rust penetrating liquid of some type. The best I've found by far is homemade from 50% acetone and 50% synthetic transmission fluid, put in a squirt bottle and be sure to shake each time before using.

One more option depending on application: alternative to a helicoil, over-drill the hole, fill with machine epoxy (JB-Weld), drill and tap fresh hole. Depends on the tension of the application. Epoxy has limits.

And I agree with Waggler on the straight fluted extractors vs. twisted. I've had much better luck with them. Extractors are one of those things where quality pays. It's all about the hardness and strength of the steel.

X 2 what Lee said. I sometimes use a washer first then a nut on top of that.

Lots of experience on here.
Like the washer idea,
can be a weld shield if needed.

Lots of good ideas here for bolts but remember the OP said screw head. Too bad he didn't state what size screw. Most people would have a very difficult time welding anything to small screws. I think the welding of a washer first is an excellent idea though

I've taken out tiny screws out of guns and other stuff, using a tig welder. Only time it can be a problem is when it is broke off below the surface in a steel object. If cast iron or aluminum base metal, then no problem, as the filler rod won't stick appreciably to the base metal. A washer is a good move, especially when broke off flush. The welding onto the remains of the bolt/screw, causes a slight shrinkage of the screw/bolt, and the heat breaks down any thread locker or rust on it, that is making it harder to remove. If it breaks off when trying to back it out, just weld on again, patience is a virtue. I have taken many screws and bolts out that someone broke a easyout or extractor off in them. I have absolutly no use for what ever you want to call them, I call them junk!

M6.

And it's in an area where I can't apply heat, shaft broken below surface.

drill a hole in the bolt and then use an ez-out hammered in and turned out with a wrench but make sure the hole is deep otherwise you just tear up your ez-out. I use that technique the most at work. I will also take a tap and grind an angle on it and use a hammer. But with that method the bolt is above the hole.

When all else fails the last resort is drill and retap to hole size but make sure it dead center drilling using a hand drill. I'll start with a center drill then switch to a carbide drill.

I’ve been removing broken screws and bolts off of cars for 45 years .....last time I used an easy out...it broke..30 years ago. My best extraction,was a broken screw on a Chevy distributor...was changing the rotor ....and that screw broke. Didn’t even take the distributor out...I climbed right in ,with my mig welder...and welded on a booger and grabbed it with the vise grips. Mig welder and a torch is all yah need.

We do injection mold repair, always using a welder isnt doable for a lot of situations. Having a good hole and correct ez-out size I think is the most important to using those. Had to weld an ez-out to a 2 foot bar to reach a rusted water fitting out of a mold. No other choice .. the guys laughed and said don't break it off in there!! Few taps with the hammer and out it came with a turn of the wrench. Can't say it always works but it's not a terrible choice.

We also only use tig, we can be a little more precise which helps alot.

Chinesium eaz-out you can probably drill out. Break a quality eaz-out off and it is a major PIA to get it out. Been there before

If you can get the part off where you can work on it would be ideal but sounds like that is not an option. Good luck getting it out.

Auto parts store will have better quality extraction tools than HF in my experience