Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7287782
06/16/21 04:33 PM
06/16/21 04:33 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 625 AK / ND
aknome
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 625
AK / ND
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I did the same road trip back in 1983. Six days are going to just be a blur of green.
Last edited by aknome; 06/16/21 04:34 PM.
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7287804
06/16/21 05:05 PM
06/16/21 05:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,666 Idaho, Lemhi County
Gulo
"On The Other Hand"
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"On The Other Hand"
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,666
Idaho, Lemhi County
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I would definitely echo the ideas put forth by White17. Get out of Los Anchorage as quick as you can; it's like a million other megatropolis's. Go north to Cantwell and head east across the Denali Highway to Paxson. Then, south to Glennallen and continue on south to Valdez (Valdeeze). With your relatively short window, I'd skip Fairbanks and Tok, and definitely skip the run to the Kenai. That week will be terrible traffic, as half a million other people will be jockeying for pole position on the highway to Kenai. I lived and worked for many years in Glennallen, McGrath, Sitka, and Fairbanks. In my opinion, if you're on the road system, don't bother with any time in Los Anchorage or Bare-Flanks, unless you spend all your time in the Bush Company, Wild Cherry, or Reflections (Infections).
Have a great time!
Jack
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: aknome]
#7287816
06/16/21 05:20 PM
06/16/21 05:20 PM
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,154 Alaska and Washington State
waggler
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,154
Alaska and Washington State
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If you don't already have a rental car reserved, you may be SOL. The ONLY rental my wife could find for the end of the month was a Suburban at $560 a day. Rental rates in Anchorage during the summer are criminal. I know of a couple of guys who had a week to spare when they got into Anchorage from BB, so they went on craigslist found a $300 beater, drove up to Denali and a few other places, and then left it on the curb at the Airport check-in level when they left town.
"My life is better than your vacation"
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: waggler]
#7287932
06/16/21 08:21 PM
06/16/21 08:21 PM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298 Oregon
RockCrick
OP
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OP
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298
Oregon
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If you don't already have a rental car reserved, you may be SOL. The ONLY rental my wife could find for the end of the month was a Suburban at $560 a day. Rental rates in Anchorage during the summer are criminal. I know of a couple of guys who had a week to spare when they got into Anchorage from BB, so they went on craigslist found a $300 beater, drove up to Denali and a few other places, and then left it on the curb at the Airport check-in level when they left town. Have you guys heard of Turo? It’s like Air BnB but for cars. I just booked a 2017 Tacoma for $51 a day, 1200 miles free and $38/100 miles after that. I haven’t used it before but know others who say it’s great, it’s the cheapest way by far to rent a car. Hope it’s not a joke…sure beats $200 a day for a Festiva.
Last edited by RockCrick; 06/16/21 08:21 PM.
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: Moosetrot]
#7288310
06/17/21 10:54 AM
06/17/21 10:54 AM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298 Oregon
RockCrick
OP
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OP
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298
Oregon
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My advice would be to buy a "Milepost". It's an Alaskan travel guide that covers the entire state. It is published by Alaska Magazine. It goes mile by mile offering suggestions on what to do and see. There are a lot of ads in there for rentals, motels, etc. I have been to Alaska several times and each time I have used the Milepost to help us get around. Great resource for getting around up there.
Moosetrot Thanks, I’ve been reading their website all morning , waiting for it to arrive in the mail. Lots of good info.
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7288323
06/17/21 11:22 AM
06/17/21 11:22 AM
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Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363 Interior Alaska
Oh Snap
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363
Interior Alaska
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White’s last post is probably what I would suggest except leave from Fairbanks. I couldn’t drive into Anchorage twice in the same week personally! Being Labor Day week the game is going to be scarce since hunting starts then in a lot of areas. Denali Highway a must the 1st. of September with the fall colors and if you can get on the bus to Wonder Lake would be your best bet for seeing game IMO.
I love the smell of burning spruce---I love the sound of a spring time goose---I love the feel of 40 below---from my trapline I will never go!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7288733
06/18/21 12:17 AM
06/18/21 12:17 AM
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Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363 Interior Alaska
Oh Snap
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363
Interior Alaska
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North Pole and Valdez each one can be thoroughly explored in a couple hours. Glennallen bit less. Our opinion! Maybe we have been here too long and a lot of the old road houses have closed down like Paxson Lodge. Even if it reopened wouldn’t be the same.
I love the smell of burning spruce---I love the sound of a spring time goose---I love the feel of 40 below---from my trapline I will never go!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7289435
06/18/21 10:41 PM
06/18/21 10:41 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514 juneau, alaska
alaska viking
"Made it two years not being censored"
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"Made it two years not being censored"
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514
juneau, alaska
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The Stampede Trail bus was popular, but has been relocated, so can't recommend that one. Bag the Kenai. Listen to the above suggestions, and you will have a great trip.
Made it almost 3 years without censor!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7289650
06/19/21 10:53 AM
06/19/21 10:53 AM
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Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363 Interior Alaska
Oh Snap
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363
Interior Alaska
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When you get on the road check….511.Alaska.gov….for road conditions and it also shows points of interest. I would recommend the 20 miles or so of paved Denali Highway from Paxton to Tangle Lakes. In September the colors will be worth it IMO. The road goes through the Alaska Range so after Summit Lake stop and scan the mountain sides and sheep, caribou, bear, moose can be seen if you spend scanning with Binoculars. Lots of pullouts to do viewing. Being hunting season might effect seeing game. Heading south on the Parks Highway after Healy the same viewing of the mountain sides the same game can be seen. Cantwell can have Caribou along the road. Parks Highway is high speed travel so viewing is not as good as the Richardson which is a little more layed back. The best sections of your trip you have planned is Glennallen to Valdez and if you drive into Tangle Lakes are our favorite. The Richardson will have mostly travelers returning from Valdez to Delta and Fairbanks towing boats and hunters. Not much truck traffic. Parks has all the truck traffic and travelers both ways between Fairbanks and Anchorage.
Last edited by Oh Snap; 06/19/21 11:11 AM. Reason: Add comments
I love the smell of burning spruce---I love the sound of a spring time goose---I love the feel of 40 below---from my trapline I will never go!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7289778
06/19/21 03:03 PM
06/19/21 03:03 PM
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Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363 Interior Alaska
Oh Snap
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363
Interior Alaska
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I have hunted Ptarmigan quite a bit between Donley Dome just south of Delta to Sourdough Creek as well as out of Paxton on the Denali and on good years did well. I usually hunted in the winter on snow shoes though.
I love the smell of burning spruce---I love the sound of a spring time goose---I love the feel of 40 below---from my trapline I will never go!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7289807
06/19/21 04:13 PM
06/19/21 04:13 PM
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Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363 Interior Alaska
Oh Snap
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 2,363
Interior Alaska
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You might bring a light tackle fly or spinning rod. All of the creeks along the road from Valdez area have trout and from Glennallen to Summit Lake have greyling usually the culverts hold fish. Fresh greyling and ptarmigan over a fire with blueberries for desert is killer!
I love the smell of burning spruce---I love the sound of a spring time goose---I love the feel of 40 below---from my trapline I will never go!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7289847
06/19/21 05:39 PM
06/19/21 05:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,666 Idaho, Lemhi County
Gulo
"On The Other Hand"
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"On The Other Hand"
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,666
Idaho, Lemhi County
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I hunted ptarmigan dozens of times (maybe hundreds) along the Denali back in the 80s. However, there are tremendous ups-and-downs in their populations, and I'm not sure what the populations are like right now. A couple miles east of Tangle River up on Rock Creek is one of the very few places I've ever found where a long day of hunting can be rewarded with finding all three species of ptarmigan. Willow ptarmigan are most common, and are usually right alongside the road. More rocky, open, and higher elevation country has a few rock ptarmigan. On tops of the range of foothills before the Alaska Range, we infrequently could find a few white-tailed ptarmigan. I know of very few hunters that can claim all three species in a single day's hunt. Used to be a daily bag limit of 20 birds, but I know that has diminished considerably since that time. Along with the good chances of seeing moose, caribou, and Dall sheep along the Denali, I've seen grizzlies commonly, wolves, and surprisingly, quite a few wolverine. Also, Rock Creek, right along the road, has some of the biggest grayling I've ever caught, up to 22" and supremely beautiful. Far as I'm concerned, however, I'd rather east a stack of soggy paper towels. Back in the 80s, too, I could usually find spruce grouse and periodically a sharp-tailed grouse along the road between Paxson and Gakona. Best of Luck on your trip, sir. Jack
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7289865
06/19/21 06:30 PM
06/19/21 06:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,666 Idaho, Lemhi County
Gulo
"On The Other Hand"
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"On The Other Hand"
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,666
Idaho, Lemhi County
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Yeah RockCrick, the harlequins spend a bit of time on little mountain creeks during breeding, but the males return to the ocean soon after breeding. The females, of course, stay with the nests and the brooding through the summer, and then they too return to the ocean. I've shot a lot of harley's around Kodiak and Prince William Sound, and a few in SE around Sitka, but your chances of finding a fall or winter harley away from the coast are just about zip. Sorry for the bad news... There is a slight chance for long-tailed ducks (oldsquaws) on some of the bigger interior lakes, but I've never shot 'em except on the ocean.
Jack
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7292221
06/23/21 11:56 AM
06/23/21 11:56 AM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,686 Alaska
drasselt
trapper
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trapper
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,686
Alaska
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The best place I know to see dall sheep pretty close is just south of ANC along Turnagain Arm. Not sure of the milepost but google it and I'm sure there are photos galore on the web. Sometimes they are right on the side of the road. White mentioned the ferry ride from Whittier to Valdez. Good Idea. Others said the Kenai not worth it. I would say the drive from ANC to Seward is well worth the time, very scenic, then you can check the Kenai off your list. Then backtrack to Whittier for the ferry ride to Valdez. Might even at least see some harlequins. Then Valdez to Paxson, Paxson to Cantwell via Denali Highway. Panorama Mountain just outside Cantwell holds Dall Sheep. Then to Fairbanks, fly home out of Fairbankas.
you can vote your way into socialism, but you will have to shoot your way out.
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7292518
06/23/21 09:35 PM
06/23/21 09:35 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514 juneau, alaska
alaska viking
"Made it two years not being censored"
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"Made it two years not being censored"
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514
juneau, alaska
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Wait, no southeast? Sea ducks galore! Rafts of Scoters numbering in the thousands! The sound of a huge raft taking off can't be described. Bears are a constant problem, and whales are abundant, to say the least. At times, (now), they are in the harbors. This part of Alaska requires it's own visit, to be sure. If Harlequins are on your list, this is the place.
Made it almost 3 years without censor!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: alaska viking]
#7292601
06/23/21 11:36 PM
06/23/21 11:36 PM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298 Oregon
RockCrick
OP
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OP
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298
Oregon
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Wait, no southeast? Sea ducks galore! Rafts of Scoters numbering in the thousands! The sound of a huge raft taking off can't be described. Bears are a constant problem, and whales are abundant, to say the least. At times, (now), they are in the harbors. This part of Alaska requires it's own visit, to be sure. If Harlequins are on your list, this is the place. Not on this go around for visiting SE, maybe next time though. Thanks for the info though
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: Oh Snap]
#7296506
06/30/21 01:11 AM
06/30/21 01:11 AM
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,324 AK
FairbanksLS
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trapper
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,324
AK
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I'd go to Seward instead of Homer. Valdez is a must. Glennallen is nothing special. After seeing Santa it's time to leave North Pole. Forget Tok. I'd probably take an hour plus to drive the first 15 miles of the Denali Park road. I live in Fairbanks and wouldn't burn any time here.
If that Tacoma has a shell on the back I'd buy a couple of bags, an inflatable air mattress and pull over an sleep next to a river.
You shouldn't smell to bad after 5 days and laundromats often have showers.
Have fun.
Watch out for moose from Salcha to Paxson. They seem to appear from nowhere. They are really big and look even bigger when you finally get stopped 20 feet from them.
Last edited by white dog; 06/30/21 01:38 AM.
formerly posting as white dog
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: FairbanksLS]
#7296815
06/30/21 03:26 PM
06/30/21 03:26 PM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298 Oregon
RockCrick
OP
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OP
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298
Oregon
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I'd go to Seward instead of Homer. Valdez is a must. Glennallen is nothing special. After seeing Santa it's time to leave North Pole. Forget Tok. I'd probably take an hour plus to drive the first 15 miles of the Denali Park road. I live in Fairbanks and wouldn't burn any time here.
If that Tacoma has a shell on the back I'd buy a couple of bags, an inflatable air mattress and pull over an sleep next to a river.
You shouldn't smell to bad after 5 days and laundromats often have showers.
Have fun.
Watch out for moose from Salcha to Paxson. They seem to appear from nowhere. They are really big and look even bigger when you finally get stopped 20 feet from them. Thanks for all the helpful info WhiteDog!
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7297548
07/01/21 07:25 PM
07/01/21 07:25 PM
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Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 336 Homer, Alaska, USA
Wolverine Hunter
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 336
Homer, Alaska, USA
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Some joker on here told you to skip Homer. WHAT??? :-) Haha
I primarily came here for a woman, otherwise I'd be somewhere else too.
I understand though. We have a tourist town here - and in the summer, we don't like to go down there ourselves (Homer Spit). We avoid it like the plague. September to May are much more suitable. The Kenai Mountains across the bay are wonderful scenery, and it's all public - my personal playground. I've been to all the areas you mentioned. Sometimes a good road trip is just what you need. But you got a lot of miles for not many days. Like somebody said, a blur of green, and maybe some yellow. Think Green Bay Packers. I hunted all up and down the highway between Paxson and Cantwell, and hardly saw a Ptarmy - and that's with an excellent gordon setter. That was a few years ago though. I think the later the better for them. The few I saw were way up high and way off the road. I did see lots of spruce chickens though, especially on the Cantwell end. As others said, there are grayling there - but I didn't try for them as I would rather hunt than fish. Lots of hunters along that road. Mostly friendly and excited to be out. Some subsistence hunting there too, I think.
We don't have much for Ptarmigan in Homer, but we have a lot of Harlequin, and if you really want a good one, I could probably help you with that as I take out some duck hunters. I also do tours on the bay, and I know right where to find them. But now I might be screwing up your trip as others have told you to skip Homer. Decisions. Decisions. If it were me, I would skip Tok and Glenallen and hunt birds. Homer is better than Seward IMO. Whittier is interesting and beautiful, but there isn't much there. Personally, I prefer the wilderness areas - so I love Cantwell to Paxton, or Tok to Eagle, or the road to Valdez. Beautiful long stretches of nothing there. Coopers landing is beautiful on the way to Homer. But that is touristy as well. I'd skip Anchorage altogether but to fly in and fly out. That city is becoming a pit!
Good luck and let us know how you do.
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7350234
09/08/21 02:30 AM
09/08/21 02:30 AM
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298 Oregon
RockCrick
OP
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OP
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Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 298
Oregon
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Hey ya’ll some of you requested an update, so here goes.
Arrived in Anchorage on Saturday and took a cab to pick up our Turo rental then buzzed up to Wasilla heeding the advice to “get out of Anchorage as fast as possible”. I didn’t think Anchorage was that bad of a city from the little bit I saw though but I’ve also been to Portland so anything is an improvement from that.
Sunday we drove from Wasilla to Valdez, gorgeous country. Really enjoyed that entire drive. In Valdez we had some burgers and brews and watched people catch Coho from the city dock and then checked out the other side of the river by the fish hatchery. THAT was impressive. Millions of dead pinks EVERYWHERE. We have salmon down here but nothing like that.
Monday we left Valdez and I traipsed around on Thompson Pass for an hour or two trying to find a ptarmigan. The wind, rain and fog was downright nasty and didn’t see a bird. Berries were thick though. After I threw in the towel we hoofed it up to Delta Junction, that was a scenic drive but the road conditions and traffic was terrible (labor day). I swung out of Paxson to Tangle Lakes for another hour or two and did some more bird hunting but got skunked. The drive from Paxson to DJ was my favorite and it go better the closer we got to Delta. As if I couldn’t have been enjoying things more, we absolutely loved Delta Junction. Small but scenic and I enjoyed seeing some farm country with the back drop the Alaska Range. We stayed up until 2 am watching the northern lights, it wasn’t a great show but we drove out of town and parked out in the boonies so we could really get a good view. Also saw at least 3 foxes driving at night.
Today we drove to Healy and called it a night. Also a nice drive, Fairbanks wasn’t too exciting but we stopped at the Christmas store and Creamers Field before departing. Watching the planes buzzing around at the air force base was pretty cool. Also stopped in Nenana and got invited on a tour of the old train depot. That was really cool, it’s short but was really interesting. The drive to Healy from Nenana was also pretty nice.
Anyways, you all are lucky to live here, I’d move to Delta Junction in a second if the opportunity presented itself. Heading to a lodge outside of Palmer tomorrow and then down to Seward for our last day. Hoping to see the dall sheep on Turnagain Arm.
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7350454
09/08/21 12:18 PM
09/08/21 12:18 PM
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,686 Alaska
drasselt
trapper
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trapper
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,686
Alaska
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Look for sheep on Panorama Mt just north of Cantwell.
you can vote your way into socialism, but you will have to shoot your way out.
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Re: Visiting Alaska
[Re: RockCrick]
#7350980
09/09/21 12:38 AM
09/09/21 12:38 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514 juneau, alaska
alaska viking
"Made it two years not being censored"
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"Made it two years not being censored"
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514
juneau, alaska
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Glad you are getting to see so much. Sorry about the lack of birds. Our limited road systems are probably not the best hunting. Maybe come again, and focus on bird hunting, and get to see a whole other part of Alaska.
Last edited by alaska viking; 09/09/21 12:39 AM.
Made it almost 3 years without censor!
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