Mainly use 160s on dryland sets. But wasn't very impressed with how my dryland sets performed. Thinking its trigger avoidance. Like the L shape. I hit coon real well. But not alot of mink. Whats everyone favorite configuration with mink on bigger traps like there 160s or even 220s? I really don't like using pans on triggers

I use 120's waxed and use the V trigger hanging down from top.

Make them ( ) with blended sets in key locations and you’ll smash the mink

one trigger strait down. Th other, strait down about an inch. Bend 90 deg away from other trigger wire, then bend down the last inch or so another 90 deg.
Set so wire is down. Take a pencil sized stick, run between the jaws, from the top angling down from the bent wire side toward the bottom of the strait wire side.
Mink most times dodge stick and hit the strait wire.
If i remember i'll try an take a pic

Try to fill the opening of the trap as much as possible by spreading the triggers. 160 coon will be neck catches and trigger doesn't matter for them as long as the trap is blended in and coon are moving...like tight spot on trail.
Mink can really vary in size and you will miss some females in 160s but decent males you should catch. Again need the mink moving or they won't force their way through a stiff trigger. Blend with lots of grass and works better for me.
I use just 110s for blind set mink here and have never had an issue killing them in 110s. Set triggers light and wax them. I have better luck in blind sets than baited boxes for some reason.
Jim

I use 110's not 160's. I shape my triggers like a key hole and tune them light with a little push on the trigger

I used 120's with V trigger standing up from bottom like grass stems. I don't think animals like ducking under something any more than I do, but will push through small twigs or grass.

For 160's this is how I set them: { |( )| } The outside brackets are the jaws. The curved lines are the trigger wires. Keep the bottom of the trigger wires an inch and a half apart. The straight up and down lines are small twigs stuck down through the top of the jaws to eliminate the space between the trigger wire and the frame of the trap.

Tune your body gripper triggers so that they fire with very little trigger movement. Start the trigger so that it will easily swing back and forth like a blade of grass or twig. The mink will center up on the opening and if your trap is properly tuned you will get single strikes right across the throat. I have caught weasels, chipmunks, and mice in my 160's using this set up.

I have found that a Snare is the best tool for dry land mink/muskrat

Circle triggers have been my greatest success(I thought poo,poo for 40yrs). I went for one or two catches dry land a season from the couple dozen sets I would always always make(with every other trigger configuration) to last two winters(when I have targeted the primmest mink because of low price and always keep trying something new) I have taken 90%+ from two sets out over two weeks(the time I think is sufficient to see if the mink comes thru again). Snow showed that I have had ) refusals and that only three mink passed thru trap uncaught(all small not wanted anyway). Also assorted coon, m'rats and otter. I'm fully convinced now. Easily DIY from black anodized X-long bicycle spokes for .25 ea. 4way triggers also improve catch for me. Easily worth the price for commercial ones in more fur, as durable as any other trigger. All my BG's now have them save the ones that I use for baited m'rat sets, my coon trail 220's and some of my spring 330's for beav(otter avoidance).

Hang a small dia wire between the trigger wires. Or use some fishing line.

Here's a twist to this question...

How would you position your triggers to miss females and catch only the big males? Frankly, I can't see any reason to kill females, things being the way they are.

Bell shaped with 1x19 16th cable attached to ONE side of the trigger wire attached with a 16th ferrule crimped bent in a 90 has worked best for me. Avoiding females is really hard to do, you'll miss males too. Also adjust the trigger travel by tapping on the top of the hood. Start the trigger so that it moves slightly, then mink push right thru. Think of it as a snare with jaws.

The custom made circle triggers I put on my 160's(as larger a dia that will fit in jaws, approx 5-5.5") lets almost all medium and smaller mink pass thru. The slightly smaller trigger on my 155"s takes a few more. I know because I haven't been setting, with low mink prices, until snow on ground. Easy to tell the story with tracks. If you try circle triggers setting them with dog down or one side works much better. Easier for them to move trigger with their backs as they go thru.

I personally think you are missing a lot of mink using a 160 with any type of trigger configuration. I prefer 110 with a dinner bell trigger. BMI 110 come stock that way. I have not found a way to avoid females. However, males naturally travel more and that alone skews the m/f ratio toward more males.

I have used 160's. I have my triggers going up from the bottom with one wire bent like half of a V and the other bent at almost a 90 degree bend. I use these in boxes and have caught a few.

Consider that mink are not the same size across the Country a SD mink and MI mink are worlds apart so apply the advice given to fit the species your dealing with.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^[[

Good point.

Wish snares were legal here, but it's a no go for us

What Beav said. Floral wire from Hobby Lobby works well. Can be re-wrapped around the trigger if needed after a catch. Works ok on 160's.