It seems there's a few spots where part of my plywood trailer bed has come apart. There are a few indentations (not all the through by any means, but about half the size of a fist in diameter). Anyone ever use these products?: I should try to find something in a bigger quantity, as I have a few divots in my back porch I should patch as well. It seems pricey though, at least in the small tube. I guess it's sandable and stainable, which is good.

https://www.theisens.com/products/stainable-wood-filler/

I see they also make a hardener. I've never heard of the hardener.:
https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener

Fillers won't stand up to use on a trailer floor.

It's pretty much like Bondo, won't stand up to any sort of real use.
Depending on what you use the trailer for, fiberglass Bondo may work for you. It's pretty tuff stuff.

you could fiber glass it , that would be the strongest but it isn't cheap either and you need clean wood underweight to get a good bond

a picture of the trailer and issue would help

The market for small lawnmore trailers is saturated- alll of the big stores like Home Depot and Tractor Supply sell them. What this mean is they try to save costs and beat the competitions price by giving you cheap tires and a cheap floor. A lost of them don't even use sealed beam tail lights and the old school lights that take an 1157 bulb have basically been obsolete for many years.

When you replace tail lights you will want to upgade to a sealed beam. When you replace tires you will want to upgrade to something designed for the loads you haul. The original floor is not going to last long, I doubt that it can be patched with a filler. The good news is if you roll up your sleeves and replace it, nearly any wood you use will be better than the original and if you care for it, then it might out live you sir.

The trailers the neighbors use and I take a little bit longer but when I re-floor one and rebuild the electrical system, I want to never deal with again. Let my son or grandkids work on it after I am gone! Sealed beams, soldered connection points, and hardwood floors last a while. I am anal so I treat all of the cut ends because with cattle feces and urine (very acidic) the rot comes from the ends and works its way in. Also, I am anal about my gear, equipment, and facilities- not sure if I mentioned that or not LOL

All he asked was about patching some bad spots. Good grief.

the wood hardener is really for working on a rotten window sill.....you really have to dig out the rotten stuff, then pour in the hardener.....then fill with their epoxy based wood filler.....this process will buy you a couple years on wood windows, if they're not too bad... trailer floor...well?

you're better off letting it go as long as you can....then replacing it

Unless it's PT plywood, you're wasting your time and money.

Kids on his lawn again is my guess! Karen I was thinking Richard.

The trailer is a 1 place snowmobile trailer. The guy told me it's treated plywood when I bought it (used) a couple years ago, but I was/am skeptical.
I store it outside. I treated it with Thompsons Water Seal in the Fall.
Overall it's pretty nice & solid.

Here's a picture of 1 of the spots I'm talking about.

With all the dead ash in Wisconsin now, I'd look for someone with a sawmill to cut some 5/4 planks and replace the entire deck.

Thanks. Yeah, we got a light rain today & I was surprised to see the water beading up. The Thompson's must have been effective. I'll reapply the h20 sealer in the Fall.
The snowmobile works fine on the trailer. I sometimes use the trailer to haul gravel in the summer, & my shovel sometimes catches on the divots. 'Big thing is I want to maintain the integrity of the trailer bed as long as possible (i.e. keep it from getting worse).

a 1 up sled trailer is typically one sheet 4x8 of 3/4 treated plywood stain/seal the bottom good before you put it on , then stain seal the top

my uncles used to do linseed oil paint it on till it sat on top for days to dry

the redneck answer is scab on patches of scrap plywood you paint with whatever you have , road signs turned face down actually work fairly well if you can find them legally

when there isn't enough to scab too , buy new wood