Woofman- you will probably need both Raccoon and squirrel sized traps with excluders for them to start. I added the following thread which has a list I posted in red for you!
The First NWCO Guys Episode also covered this question too! Download it and listen to it for free at: [url=http://recordings.talkshoe.com/TC-16456/TS-113074.mp3][/url] http://recordings.talkshoe.com/TC-16456/TS-113074.mp3?dl=1Note: The following is the information I compiled from various T-Man Threads for the New Trapperman Book 2 and intended to represent the group as a whole.
Paul Dobbins created the ADC Forum on Trapperman.com for the sole purpose of those in the nuisance wildlife control industry to discuss & share issues & concerns in their specific industry. Over the last couple of years a variety of topics have been covered and some of them remain to be repeated and asked often on the forum. The purpose of this communication to is to share information in demand by those seeking to learn more about getting into the industry. The following are excerpts from posts and intentionally omitted the submitters names for privacy reasons.
Starting Up AN ADC Business
Q. Just wondering what kind of training, certification etc . do you need to charge for removing problem animals?
I am sure it differs from state to state. I was thinking of placing an ad that I will remove coons-foxes-muskrats-beaver for free, (in season). But skunks and grinners would be a waste of my time if I wasn't paid.
A. There is a HUGE variance from state to state regarding nuisance wildlife permits and regulations. Some have extensive testing and reporting (like mine - IL) and some have NO guidelines. There are some good links on the animalremovalpro.com site for each state. Sounds like you are simply wanting to run an ad for regular fur trapping. Not a bad idea, but nowhere near the same as commercial wildlife control. Fur trapping is a recreational hobby (FUN) and operating a professional wildlife control service is WORK, requires more hours than any full-time job, you get to pay your own health insurance, along with TONS of other operating expenses. However, I wouldn't trade back for a "regular" job for anything!
A. Here is some info you may find useful. But you also need to research your own state .
http://icwdm.org/Agencies/Laws.aspA. What many folks don't seem to understand is that permits or licenses are usually required to trap game, or fur-bearing animals, outside of the designated trapping season. Charging for services imposes even many more requirements in most states. Shooting, or even destroying the active nest, of a robin or woodpecker (and most other birds) requires Federal permits. It ain't as easy as most folks think. They may get away with it for a while, but "big brother", state game warden or Federal officers will catch up eventually.
A. Do you have public relation skills? Knowledge of common building techniques? The maintenance and repair of structures? Business savvy? Interpersonal (people) skills?
Next. Liability insurance to the tune of at least 1,000,000? Are you bonded? Worker's comp? Business licenses? Pesticide applicator's license?
Not to bust your chops, but to some of us this is way more than catching critters. It our life and sole means of support. It's business plain and simple. Forget the idea of easy money, it ain't. Yes, there is money to be made and yes sometimes it seems easy but all the easy jobs are equaled by the jobs where every critter caught is earned the hard way.
If all you want to do is catch some critters on the side then go for it. If on the other hand it is a profession you seek then you need a whole lot more than some traps.
Note: Here are some additional threads one may review on starting up an adc business:
Basic Traps Used For ADC Work
Q. Just wanting to know what would be a good list of traps to get for adc work?
A. Cage traps are the easiest to use, but take up alot of room. Coon cages will work for almost anything up to the size of a coon. Single and double doors are good to have arround. Anything that wont go in a cage readily( coyotes) Can be snared or busted with a foot hold. Depending on where u are, I would probobly focus mainly on coon cages and bat exclusions in Ill.
A.
Here's a good basic load.
1 dz 1079 sized cage traps
2 dz 102 sized cage traps
2 ea excluders for above traps
1 dz 110 magnums
1/2 dz 220s (if legal for dry land otherwise use CTM 5x5)
1 dz 330s
1 dz #2 footholds offset and fully modded (or the largest legal in your area)
1/2 dz #1 CS or LS
1 gross (that's right 144) rat sized snap traps
1 gross mouse snap traps
1 dog/bobcat sized cage traps
The above is just as basic list with many of these traps doing double and triple duty. ie, the #2s coyote/cat/fox, 1079s raccoon/groundhog/skunk/opossum.
You will want to upgrade and specialize your equipment as you go along. Consider skunk only traps if you deal with skunks. 1.5/1.75 for fox. Snares if legal. #4s and #5s for beaver. Snake traps. Special devices and alterations to use traps more effectively such as boxes to hold traps to catch voles/chipmunks/fliers/rats etc. Not to mention adding specialty traps hog traps, colony traps, collarums, and belisle live traps.
Don't forget all of the related equipment that goes along with traps and trapping either.
A.have just over 400 cage traps...about 1/2 are squirrel size and 1/2 are raccoon size, which of course I catch lots of other stuff in...'possums, feral cats, skunks, groundhogs, etc...
When you're a nuisance trapper in suburbia, you're basiclly a cage trapper anyway. You learn the right techniques, not a lot you can't catch, in the right type cage trap. I see trappers catch mink, otter, foxes, bobcats, beaver and occasionally a coyote in cage traps, so just goes to show you what can be done with the right mindset!
As a fur trapper for the past 40 years, I've got all the kill traps, snares and foot traps I'll ever need for ADC work but cage traps are how I catch 90% of the animals in town!What Are Some Good Safety Equipment.?
Q. I am looking for recommendations from all of you fellow ADC types on the best shoes, helmets, shields, ladders, gloves,attic boards and having all of our job sites complying with OSHA. I want to add that this thread will save someones life just because you took the time to share your knowledge on being safe.
A. I wouldnt use or allow my employees use any ladder without having a set of leg levelers on each one. These devices have no doubt saved many a man from falling. The old stick a board or rock under a ladder leg to level it is very risky business.
These attachments are probably one of the most valuable devices that we have ever purchased. We are so dependent upon them that when asked to use another ladder we refuse unless it is on level ground. When you dont have one with the levelers attached I feel quite unsafe if using that ladder.
They also have wedge type devices that act as a shim bridge for leveling ladders but I ve never used one. A friend has one but he also depends on the automatic levelers as well.
There are two types of leg levelers available to my knowledge but there may be others. One type is self adjusting the other is manually adjusted, either works very well.The manual type is more easily installed on the ladder.
A. Cougar Paws, roofing boots. The souls are completely flat for more surface area contact. The bottom of the boot is like a traction pad.
I had a kid come out and install a high speed internet dish in the autumn. I was in a hurry to get him on his way so I could make an appointment so I put on my Cougar Paws and went to help him.
When he needed something from the ground I'd run across the roof in leaps and bounds and be back with the part in minutes.
When we were done the kid commented that he never installed a dish that fast. I told him "maybe we'll make the company newsletter." I thought he was going to bust a gut.
The only negative, if there was one, is that you can't where them all day - only when you go up on a roof. Otherwise you'd prematurely wear out the soul.
Here is a link -
http://www.cougarpaws.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Pr...A. Started on a large bird netting job today on a huge double-stacked billboard. Remembered this thread about safety, and wanted to include:
Full body safety harness.
Safety lanyard(s).
Safety ropes (especially for 2 and 3 story homes).
A. For those of you not familiar with the content on WCO Radio here are a few good safety links.
A. Anyone looking for a vendor that carries safety supplies go to
I have been buying from them for months and couldn't be happier.
Be sure to request a catalog when on their website. It's about the size of the Webster dictionary.
Warning...buying safety equipment can be addictive!
Q. What is your basic load that needs to be on your truck to handle most of your calls?
A. Most of my calls are Raccoons, Possums, Squirrels and Bats and I have read others deal with Pigeons, Ground Hogs and others exclusively. I am sure other species require other items and would love to read that too. What should be on my truck? What is necessary to be on yours.
A. I have a complete inventory list I could get ya later, but it'll be a scan not a type in because I am too lazy.
If Raccoons, Possums, Squirrels and Bats are what you are focusing on at this time(with the exception of baits and traps) I would recomend a good set of cordless tools. I even have a 12vDC recharging unit for mine which was a great addition to my truck. Ladders of course. If starting from scratch I recommend a 6' step also a 24'and a 32'extension. You can substitute a little giant type for the step and 24 if youlike but I think that the 24 and the step are faster on and off the truck.
You will need an assortment of fasteners(both stainless and regular) and exclusion materials like sheet metal(not aluminum) and hardware cloth (both 1/2 in and 1/4 in) a supply of copperstuff it, a good caulk gun and an assortment of silicone and latex caulk, I usually get by with a hand full of spray paint colors like Blk, Gry, Wht, Brn, and Almond, occasionally you'll need others (and this may certainly be different for different areas)
For bats I like the Todal guns and foam and think that they are worth the investment but you may get by short term with cheaper.
A 3# hammer, a regular hammer, a multi tool (I perfer gerber over leatherman) Long flat screwdriver, Vice grips, channel locks, tin snips. (I use tin snips to open my coon bait), a mirror, chimney rods (about 20 ft) and a chimney brush. a fish net, a catch pole and a pig-puller.
This is only a beginning, there are a 1000 more things that the other guys can surely point out as well.
A. If talking regarding tools required and equipment that depends on each individual job. One cant possibly carry all the materials for all jobs intended that may be anticipated. Just not enough room. We typically schedule specific work for each day and load for those jobs.We carry ladders on all the trucks from a 12ft adjustable collapsable ladder, a 16' and a 28'or 32'.
Some basic equipment( graspers,heavy and medium weight gloves,snare pole,eye protection, screw assortment, wire, duct tape, pet screen netting, caulk gun, infra red camera, rope, lites,(lites can be your most valuable tool at times)A flashlite and a good spot lite are necessities,and a respirator to name a few basics.
With respects to traps one can carry a simple variety stacked inside one another for space economy to address calls that may come in while one is on the road and deal with them hopefully before you leave an area sort of thing.A variety of lures and baits etc.A transfer cage is handy for doing those random quick cash random animal pick up calls that come in very often or quick animal transfers from traps set to not have to pull the trap on site.
We load daily for that days work. If its going to be a bat job day we load specific bat exclusion needed materials. We always carry basic bag tools,cordless primarily but have power tools for barrier install work when drilling into concrete or cement aprons etc for attachment purposes.
These basics will vary with ones experience to that you will know what you need for daily routine calls. Prepare for the crack, crevice and crawl space jobs and you will be set for the most part.Its the attics, crawl spaces,chimney, interior wall, ceiling /floor voids, duct work, trailer skirting belly paper issues that make a job challenging.
A. I've heard of a few people who don't letter their trucks due to possible targeting by animal rights fanatics, but not a problem where I'm located. The benefits of lettering far outweigh any negatives relating to lettering. I get work almost every time I drive through a heaviliy populated area (big cities, lakeshore subdivisions, etc) and they tell me they saw me in their area. Most of the time they get the website and/or phone number FROM THE TAILGATE LETTERING. I often notice people sitting behind me at stoplights, writing down my contact info. As far as items/tools/materials on the truck, I do just as Bob Jameson, load for the jobs each day. Of course I have the basics at all times, but for large jobs it often requires taking everything out and loading for the particular situation. This is especially true on large bat or bird jobs. Jobs requiring the driveable scissors lift are easier to load, as I use my flatbed trailer which has plenty of room and storage. Jobs requiring my towable lift are tougher, as it seems I never have enough room in the truck for everything I end up needing. My wife thinks I need a semi.......... hey, maybe a box truck? BTW, the first pic is my son with a nice rat snake. He is a snake fanatic. Middle pic, delivering my scissors lift for a large truck dock bird netting job. Bottom pic, crossing the Illinois River on a ferry.
A. "Jobs requiring my towable lift are tougher, as it seems I never have enough room in the truck for everything I end up needing. My wife thinks I need a semi.......... hey, maybe a box truck?"
There are a lot of answers to this issue, including vans, bigger trucks, those reading trucks, a small box truck is not a bad idea...
A. I use rental companies across the country as needed. Primarily Nations Rent is the company we seem to use most since we have a business account with their company. So where ever we travel most states have one of their branch offices located within a reasonable delivery distance from our job site. Each job is different with respects to height and accessibility needs so lift requirements will vary per job.
My crew and I both prefer an articulating lift with a jib attached at the end extension where the bucket is located. This type of lift offers the most versatility on a job in terms of structural accessability and positioning. Equipment brand name such the Genies and JLB's offer the most in features from my experience. We rent several lifts a year and the height requirements vary sometimes radically from job to job.
Most bird jobs a scissors lift is adequate but at times a Knuckle boom lift is better. Sometimes we need one of each to do a job or two of each etc. You have to determine in your bid as to what your time of completion will be and factor the lift costs in for that time frame. Renting a lift beyond 3 days with the cost you are better to rent it for a week.
Most of our larger bat jobs require 3 to 5 days on a job typically for lift use.
It has been my experience it is to my advantage to rent vs buying a lift for the reasons mentioned. The cost to buy one and have the largest one you may need for a job can be very expensive.Not to mention the purchase of a semi and flat bed trailer to transport. Then there are the OSHA inspections that must be maintained on the equipment to operate it and insure it etc.
All in all we just bid the cost of a rental into a project as with any other cost of doing business and it works out well for us. Some guys own and haul the smaller 30'-35'lifts but they are a pain to work with especially when accessability to haul one in to the right position to reach what you need and then re tow it into position to reach another part of a structure can be challenging if not impossible at times.
It is all up to what you feel is the better option and suits your needs the best. Renting for our company works out nicely with no overhead or hauling a limited height lift around. Most of your avg. homes are under the 25-30' accessability mark so ladders will suffice on the majority of the work one does for bats, squirrels and bird entry points.
When you get to the 3 story homes it can be difficult to reach everything with ladders. Then you must determine if a lift is an option and if so is the structure going to have adequate accessability to manouveur the lift into position to make it feasable to even consider its use.Or if the client can incur the cost of a lift at all.Many variables to consider when considering the use of a lift.
Typically when (1)lift or more are needed you are into a nice job financially. So bidding their cost into the project is necessary to complete the job safely and in a timely fashion.
A. We have all magnetic signs on all of our vehicles. That does allow the removal of them upon request of the client if they so wish.There is much to be said for logo advertisement on a vehicle. We have gotten hundreds of jobs and stopped along the road by people wanting help or had a friend that needed some service.
There I believe are more pros to cons in that area.I agree in some cases it is best to be discreet and not to advertise. Like the low income housing units to state an example. But then you have traps that will be seen also in most cases so in a day or so all the rif raf will know what is up any way.
A. Most times my traps,ladders,blankets,and bee suite w/smoker are the most important thing on the truck.Im not going back 50 miles to get batteries,bait,wire or anything i can pick up at the home depot i pass every 15 minutes on the freeway.I try to keep a stocked truck,but when the season really gets bumping,well, we all know how long that lasts.
A. I have cat graspers, snake hook, release / catch pole, 1x1 cage wire (I always keep a role with me) and smaller role of hardware cloth. 5 gal bucket with stakes and zip ties and other assorted stuff. My "trap/Lure" bag - 3 dif plyers, 2 cable/wire cutters, hammer, bucket (small I think a half gal.) with a lid that holds most adc lures, coffee can with k9 and "real" coon lures (shelfisf, fishy stuff) duct tape, flagging tape, tape measure, two or 3 - 8 oz jars of bait (coon and skunk usually)brass trap tags, cage hooks and plyers, hogrings and hog ring plyers, drill bits, syringes and needles and gloves.. I think that's all. It changes from time to time...
8 foot section of green plastic fence (3 ft tall)Rubber boots, hip waders (never know) flat shovel, thin spade, trowl shovel, stakes, usually two 6 foot 2x6's, paperwork, one more tool bag with asorted stuff, mask, rubbergloves, screwdrivers sockets...etc, and the drill bag with drill and staple / brat gun.
sadly my saw zaw was stolen so right now I have a hand saw in there, and I have two ladders on top. 28' ectension, and an 8' step. I need a 6' step as well. You'd be amazed how many roofs I can get on to with an 8 foot step ladder.
I think that's it, but it changes all the time.
A. C.P.L. and a Glock
Insurance
12 volt to 110 invertor
Breath mints
Phone Books
throw net
Fishing pole
Roof jacks
Corkys for wet shake roofs
Heavy Trash bags and plastic
broom
Life jacket
Finish nailer
small compressor
phone charger
Camera and laptop...great for showing "them" what is up or down there
...........I use a lot of what ever I have....I like the screws for the trex type decking....The are set tapping and self setting with a finish head.....also the metal roofing screws..... Galv Finish nail in 8-12........sinkers.....I do not know what the concrete anchors i use are call I will have to take a picture
What do you use for odor control?
Q. Looking for experiences each of us have had regarding funky odors and how you handled them for your customers.
I have been using a product called X-O ODOR NEUTRALIZER & CLEANER at like $81 a gallon plus shipping. Is there anything better, cheaper ?
A. Depends entirely on what is included in the term "funky odor". Every situation requires a different approach. If you are dealing with bats, bleach should NEVER be used for clean-up or disinfecting, as guano contains ammonia. Bleach should never be mixed with ammonia as it creates toxic fumes.
A. Bac A Zap $30 Gallon
Carbon air scrubbers can be used in living areas to quickly get rid of smell. Provided the area is enclosed.
Ozone generators can be used in non-living areas.
Odor source still has to be removed.
A. I spray DDG Disinfectant with ALPHAZYME PLUS Bio-Active Odor Eliminator & Enzymatic Presoak on the dead critters it kills the odor if the oder is realy bad like a dead skunk or skunk spray I will use Epoleon N-100 $50.00 and makes 5 gal
Epoleon NnZ is a catalytic deodorizer that is nontoxic, non-hazardous, and non-corrosive. NnZ has no fragrance. Epoleon NnZ can react with pet odors, sweat odors, tobacco odors that are embedded in carpet and furniture, etc. It also reacts with raw garbage for indoor and outdoor applications, dead rodents, skunk mell, etc. NnZ can eliminate acidic, alkali, and neutral odors such as putrefied oils. It also contains an emulsifier and surfactants for oil and has excellent cleaning power.
The dosage of NnZ will vary depending on the type and amount of odor you are dealing with. For example: for dead rodents and skunk, 1/2 gallon of Epoleon NnZ can be mixed with up to 5 gallons of water . Spray the mixture directly on the source of the odor.
Epoleon Odor Neutralizers are a unique alternative in odor control. Epoleon neutralizes by means of a chemical reaction, counteraction and absorption. This enables Epoleon to react with a variety of gases (acidic,neutral, and alkaline) simultaneously. Epoleon products work to neutralize odorous gases and eliminate the source of odors, not just cover them up as most masking agents do.
"N-100 offers a new alternative for controlling air-borne odors such as Hydrogen Sulfide, Methylmercaptan (Skunk), Trimethylamine and Ammonia (urine), that is coming from various applications. N-100 works by method of chemical reaction, and also provides a fresh scent during application. The fragrance is designed to act as a counteraction method against odors, not to mask."
I get this at
http://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/A. I drill / cut a hole at the base of the wall behind the mopboard, locate with my bore scope and remove the mouse, rat, squrrel and than i treat the area and repair/ or replace mopboard. I dont like to deodorize without tending the problem..
A. I don't like to charge people to remove dead mice I charge for my time, but If you don't check, how do you know its "Just a mouse" I just took over 40 mice out of a 15 ft stretch ( stench of wall ) of wall,
I don't consider that I am charging for "just a mouse" what I am charging for is my time, my training, my knowledge , and experience, my investment of equipment, advertising, my truck and gas ($3.25 per gal.) I am averaging $ 150.00 per week gas alone,plus rags, cleaners, bait, and this is just the overhead, I need to make profit to take care of my family,
It takes me just as long to open up a wall to take out a squirrel as a mouse , or the 30 min setting up to catch a coon or skunk , most people understand, --- if they call a plumber and it takes 3 min. to clear a drain he is still going to charge a service charge for his time around here $60 bucks just to show up, again if they could fix it themselves WHY did they call you , I will tell you why -- they wanted someone that knows what they are doing, to DO the job that they can't or don't have the time, equipment or experience to do. If I have given them a warranty on a exclusion job there will be NO charge. if no warranty they pay each time -- they know this when they call me, sometimes I charge more for D.O.A. removal.
What Tools Make You Money?
Q. What tool have you bought that really has brought you money back for an investment. This could be a metal brake, hydraulic lift, mist netting , the sky is the limit and the intent here is to get a discussion going on the tools of our trade.
A. An extra cordless drill.
Yes for when your drill absolutely is gonna fall off the roof when you chose not to go get it.Thats actually two 3/8" drills, one 1/2" - all cordless and two hammer drills .
A. A couple neat toys, I mean tools for bat work. One is my night-vision viewer and the other a parabolic listening device. I have let several clients watch bats exiting their structures with the night-vision viewer, and they instantly want the job performed. I never use scare tactics (rabies threats, etc) but when they see bats coming out they realize they have a real problem.
The listening device is great for pinpointing where the bats are coming out, or even roosting in soffits. Once they start their pre-flight chattering, you can scan the side of a 3 or 4 story structure and hear them plain as day. It's adjustable so you can "tune out" surrounding noises if needed. Both are reasonably priced, and clients are first impressed that you have such equipment, then they are "sold" on the job when they actually see the bats or hear the noise themselves.
A. 21 lcd monitor sure helps to see the paper work..........got one of the GPS navigation systems that talks to you.....(mine speaks japan)..........cheap and saves time........Beaver baskets......saves some of the emotional problems that are associated with normal traps
A. buying my beaver snares from Ralley Hess instead of doing it myself......
A. A word of caution with regards to being too forthwith as to pointing out all the bat openings and then documenting them for the client....... I use to do that until I began having customers deciding they now want their handy man to do the job cause he looked at your material and says he can do that a lot cheaper. Or the consumer decides he wants to take a shot at doing the seal work themselves.
A. Some call it it a laddermate. Here is a link
http://www.paintstoreonline. Go to ladder accessories.
Let me explain when I use. All of my big ladders 20 foot and above have levelers attached. I use this around stairs with my steps / smaller ladders and on roofs of colonials etc when you only need to go an additional say 8 to 12 feet on top of the garage etc
Do some google searches. Used them when I use to paint. I do not use them on any 90 pitches or anything higher than say 12 feet.
A. During the first several years of operation, the tools and equipment you add will usually be items that help out in typical trapping, exclusion, and inspection work. As the years go by, if you manage to run the business successfully you will find yourself needing (not just wanting) more specialized equipment. It's important to remember that you must FIRST have a solid business built before even considering investing larger sums of money into equipment.
Here's a few things that I could no longer live without, but only because they get used constantly throughout the entire year. First pic: HEPA-vac for safely removing bat guano (in smaller quantities) from attics or other spaces. Pic 2: Scissors lift (driveable; 24-foot platform height) for bird netting and other jobs (truck dock netting, etc). Pic 3: Large vacuum excavator (20 HP Honda V-twin), used for large attic clean-outs (churches, schools, etc). Pic 4: Towable boom lift. The most versatile piece of equipment I own. Can't believe I worked 12 years without one. Gets me jobs everyone else passes up, and is much safer than ladder work.veryone else passes up, and is much safer than ladder work.
Tags: start, wco, business, new, adc
