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Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7165796
02/02/21 12:17 AM
02/02/21 12:17 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514
juneau, alaska
A
alaska viking Offline
"Made it two years not being censored"
alaska viking  Offline
"Made it two years not being censored"
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,514
juneau, alaska
BCTomcat is spot on. I have used flower pots on snowshoe lines with some success, but lots of refusals, newspaper tubes, with limited success, but now use plywood boxes almost exclusively, for marten


Made it almost 3 years without censor!

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7165851
02/02/21 01:52 AM
02/02/21 01:52 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
D
Drakej Offline
trapper
Drakej  Offline
trapper
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
All my boxes are at my cabin. If I get up there soon I will post one. We are allowed only two fisher and/or marten so for the groups I've trapped marten with(which are limited to only the NE region of state in any number) getting gear to them is a bigger issue for most than catching them. We have no bear issues during our season and many prefer to set boxes on ground rather than hang. Our track experience has never shown an issue of animals refusing tubes(with the exception of traps set with "V" triggers) only animals jumping over pan triggers if bait is far back in tube. . This hasn't happened with circle triggers or bait moved up close to trap with pan. Even have caught a few bobcats in them marten trapping so they can't be that repulsive. A tube placed in the woods for six days is of no environmental concern. Getting three dozen tubes on the trailer in the place of one dozen boxes for me is(especially if you have several trappers group trapping together for the experience). I tried nesting wood boxes some but they were very difficult to build and only lasted a few years.

I have also slipped the front half of a cut tube into the front half and fastened together to shorten tubes but even that turned out to be a little long IMO. Half tubes not only doubles the number of "cubbies" but gets the trap right up the bait so when animal works it they stand right on pan. Have turned trap over in slots to have pan up top so when working bait animal hits it with head but as we are allowed so few it hasn't proved to be a great advantage(but does work). Circle triggers are showing about 25% better catch.

I forgot to mention we do cut the bottom front out about half way so animal isn't stepping on plastic to get to bait, use black only tubes and camouflage outside with whatever covering is available(usually evergreen branches).

Our biggest problems Is getting an animal TO the tube within the very short season window we have. If we can get them there we seldom don't have them commit. iT's not a matter of tube or box for us.

We do have Lynx exclusion regs to deal with in some area with 160's on ground but the tube in tube with the super tube size lets you set back a 160 deep enough be legal and opening can be reduced as well with a cross stick.


I've learned enough thru the years to now know that I don't know enough. KNOWLEDGE IS FREEDOM.
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7166075
02/02/21 10:44 AM
02/02/21 10:44 AM
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,064
NY
R
rendezvous Offline
trapper
rendezvous  Offline
trapper
R

Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,064
NY
There is the Noonan Wire Cages and Flower Pot Set...
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Let's go Brandon!
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7166158
02/02/21 11:49 AM
02/02/21 11:49 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
D
Drakej Offline
trapper
Drakej  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
If the wire boxes are collapsable both are methods are space savers. As we are not allowed to suspend trapped animals(attachment has to long enough to reach ground) setting on ground is faster/easier than hanging the "cubby". Our best producing set locations are under root balls, heavy blow downs, edges of large boulders, etc where suspending would be very time consuming(if even possible) so ground setting works best. Here wire boxes could lead to "legal" issues with CO's as "exposed bait" if not well hidden with some type of covering. Know many trappers here that catch their limit equally consistently with boxes, tubes, plant pots and wire enclosures. We've tried them all and wood hasn't shown any advantage over plastic to us. But their compact storage, durability, ease of cleaning(we dip ours each season in skunk dip formula to remove some of the quill smell to keep the wives happier) are for us. I also have a ready free supply of them from finding them while doing ditch picking service projects with our Boy Scouts over the years.

Not implying any advantage to tubes but our catch success has proven to us that they aren't any disadvantage from wood either. Getting whatever you choose into the targets "path" of travel is our challenge.


I've learned enough thru the years to now know that I don't know enough. KNOWLEDGE IS FREEDOM.
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7166196
02/02/21 12:32 PM
02/02/21 12:32 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
T
The Beav Offline
trapper
The Beav  Offline
trapper
T

Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
My Canuck buddy builds his marten fisher boxes out of slab wood the bottom Is covered with hardware cloth and the box Is nailed on the side of the tree. And no more then 4' off of the ground. He baits with beaver meat. The screen bottom allows the birds to hang on the screen to eat at the bait. The crumbs off the meat drop to the ground which In turn draw In mice and voles which In turn draw In the marten and fisher.
It must work because the time I trapped with him we caught 50 some marten and I was only there for a few weeks.


The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7167514
02/03/21 01:42 PM
02/03/21 01:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
ADK95 Offline OP
trapper
ADK95  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
Hey folks! Thanks for all the pointers. I've got a lot of information to take in and consider.

I've got a 5x5 trap on the way along with a slightly different styled pan that I'd like to play with. I'll also be making some changes to the box.

I'll keep this thread updated as I make adjustments.

Thanks a ton!

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7169276
02/04/21 05:44 PM
02/04/21 05:44 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
D
Drakej Offline
trapper
Drakej  Offline
trapper
D

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Here are the moded tubes we use. The magnum tube is for our lynx zone regs with set back and opening size for "on the ground" 160 setting(first box photo doesn't have the holes in sides that is detailed later for stick to run thru box to restrict front opening size to reg). As 160 springs are tight against back of 8" notch( also as deep back as a 160 will go in) we attach a small piece of 3/4" alum angle to keep strong springs from damaging box. Because animal has to travel so far into box we remove some floor so they are stepping on ground. Note trigger dog cut out in bottom, as trap is very tight that far back in tube it is needed to allow trigger to fire when set dog down(pans, circle triggers). The standard tube(cut just about in half) allows enough space under trap(155 or 120) for trigger dog when spring are bent down pushing trap tight to top for added stability. Both halves will fit 155s but back half is not as rigid in opening so I use them on mink/mrat line(like pocket poppers). Being able to get trap right up to bait, has eliminated the times when marten have gotten over trigger pan to be able to work bait behind trap and back out(doesn't happen often but who wants to miss any). Also like tight 1/2" slot to better told trap springs(3/4" for 160's).

Again the biggest pro of tubes(moded or not)is the is the ability to "nest" saving tremendous space for transport/storage for those who this is an advantage.

PS- 160 boxes haven't produced more marten than 155 ones, but a few more and larger fisher.
PS- Not good coon boxes, too many misses from arm reaching.


I've learned enough thru the years to now know that I don't know enough. KNOWLEDGE IS FREEDOM.
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: Drakej] #7170469
02/05/21 06:31 PM
02/05/21 06:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
ADK95 Offline OP
trapper
ADK95  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
Originally Posted by Drakej

[Linked Image]

Here are the moded tubes we use.



Oh man I love the front half of that tube. I'm sure you get less refusals with the back being wide open like that. I've got some hardware cloth and screws in the garage that should do the trick. I'm going to try that out! Thank you for all of the advice.

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7170875
02/06/21 12:34 AM
02/06/21 12:34 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
D
Drakej Offline
trapper
Drakej  Offline
trapper
D

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,511
Kanabec Cty, MN
Actually we have started to place box backs very close to some backing(1-2") or cover with some boughs as fully exposed animal work the bait at screen too much(smell still gets out though). Also we had too many wolves lick the screen back and freeze tongues to it, dragging box around until they get free. Trap attached outside box gets pulled out equalling potential missed M/F if box isn't operational when they come bye.


I've learned enough thru the years to now know that I don't know enough. KNOWLEDGE IS FREEDOM.
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7171701
02/06/21 07:15 PM
02/06/21 07:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
ADK95 Offline OP
trapper
ADK95  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Alright folks, here's where I'm at....

Rather than cutting the slots deeper, I shortened the box like Drakej has suggested. Instead of just keeping the back wide open, I actually used the last inch of the cubby to sandwich screen in the back. This makes the cubby much more rigid while still allowing good air flow.

I bumped the trap up to a 5x5... I honestly didn't think it would make a difference, but after comparing it to the 120, I see how that might make the difference to a big fisher.

I also swapped out the expandapan for a wooden pan and raised it up just a tad as suggested by someone in a PM.

I'm really liking this setup... the only thing I'll do differently with the next one is the slots will be cut a bit narrower. It's not huge, but there is a bit of play with that trap. It can rock and slide in those slots. For this one, I'll just correct that with some sticks staked through the springs.

Thank you all for the advice! I still have 39 more to do but I'll be waiting until I decide this is 100% the best route for me to go.

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7171726
02/06/21 07:31 PM
02/06/21 07:31 PM
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
B
Boco Offline
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Boco  Offline
trapper
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
[Linked Image]
Note slots.Thats what holds the trap rock solid.

Last edited by Boco; 02/06/21 07:32 PM.

Forget that fear of gravity-get a little savagery in your life.
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7171731
02/06/21 07:34 PM
02/06/21 07:34 PM
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
B
Boco Offline
trapper
Boco  Offline
trapper
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
Forget the screen boxes-especially the 1 inch squares.You will be forever rebaiting the trap.


Forget that fear of gravity-get a little savagery in your life.
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: Boco] #7171752
02/06/21 07:57 PM
02/06/21 07:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
ADK95 Offline OP
trapper
ADK95  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
Originally Posted by Boco
Forget the screen boxes-especially the 1 inch squares.You will be forever rebaiting the trap.


Thanks for the advice Boco! I'll definitely be keeping the slots much narrower on the next one.

The screen I used here is 1/4 inch. Think that'll give me any problems? I figure since I'm setting on the ground, I'll have enough trouble with mice sneaking around the trap for a free meal.

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7171779
02/06/21 08:24 PM
02/06/21 08:24 PM
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
B
Boco Offline
trapper
Boco  Offline
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
The screen in the bottom/back of a box is good-1/2 inch or 1/4 inch.
1 inch screen will give you the same problems with bait loss as the boxes made totally out of 1 inch screen.
Mice,voles and shrews can eat bait but nothing like the bigger birds working thru the large screen holes.
Small birds(and microtines) working the bait is a good draw for marten/fisher,and birds will try thru the back of the box thru the smaller mesh,but cannot clean out all the bait quickly.


Forget that fear of gravity-get a little savagery in your life.
Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: Boco] #7171784
02/06/21 08:27 PM
02/06/21 08:27 PM
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
ADK95 Offline OP
trapper
ADK95  Offline OP
trapper

Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 113
NY
Originally Posted by Boco
The screen in the bottom/back of a box is good-1/2 inch or 1/4 inch.
1 inch screen will give you the same problems with bait loss as the boxes made totally out of 1 inch screen.
Mice,voles and shrews can eat bait but nothing like the bigger birds working thru the large screen holes.
Small birds(and microtines) working the bait is a good draw for marten/fisher,and birds will try thru the back of the box thru the smaller mesh,but cannot clean out all the bait quickly.


Good to know! Thank you. Sounds like all I've really got to adjust now is the size of those spring slots.

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7388547
10/26/21 12:07 PM
10/26/21 12:07 PM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1
Alaska
K
Keith.webb Offline
trapper
Keith.webb  Offline
trapper
K

Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 1
Alaska
Do you still have a contact at continental products?? I know this thread is 5 years old.

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: ADK95] #7390479
10/28/21 08:58 AM
10/28/21 08:58 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,035
wyoming southeast
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danvee Offline
trapper
danvee  Offline
trapper
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,035
wyoming southeast
On mine I always cut out the bottom of the box at the entrance of the trap and set the trap back in further. They get fully committed this way and feel log under there feet while entering the box. I also have the pan tipped up so I get a shoulder neck catch on marten. I use to put the pan flat like shown in you pick and caught most behind the shoulder. As far as fisher I would go maybe with a larger trap but we are not allowed to trap them here so I use 120s

Re: Marten/fisher box [Re: danvee] #7391491
10/29/21 12:54 PM
10/29/21 12:54 PM
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,794
100 Mile House, BC Can
bctomcat Offline
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bctomcat  Offline
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,794
100 Mile House, BC Can
Originally Posted by danvee
As far as fisher I would go maybe with a larger trap but we are not allowed to trap them here so I use 120s
120's will catch fisher just as easily as larger traps. You can only avoid fisher by using a restricted entrance hole on your box of 2.5 inches,or less, and then some will still get in unless your trap is recessed 12" or more into the box.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Last edited by bctomcat; 10/29/21 01:05 PM.

The only constant in trapping is change so keep learning.






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