So I rang in the new year with turning on the water spigot with nothing. Initially I thought a pipe froze since it was 18 below yesterday but we had been running water all day. So, checked the well pump breaker, not tripped. We have a Franklin Electric sub drive 75 constant pressure system and it had power. So I tapped on the pressure switch and it immediately started making the normal noise (light hum) that it makes when it’s sending power to the pump. Ok problem solved, replace the switch. So I walk away and head into the house and water is blasting out of the pressure relief on the water heater. Of course the idiots who installed the water heater didn’t put isolation valves on the water heater so I opened the spigot in the bathroom to relief the pressure on the water heater and it stopped coming out of the pressure relief valve. After letting the air bleed off the lines I turned the faucet off and the water heater immediately started blasting water. I know the pressure switch needs replaced but what the heck is going on with the pressure relief valve? The pressure switch isn’t regulating it at high pressure? And why is the pressure gauge maxed out even when the system is turned off? I can jump the pressure switch to get water but it seemed like there would be no limit on the pressure and risk blowing a pipe or having the water heater go nuts again?

To add insult to injury, we’re snowed in right now. Luckily I have a spring I can bucket water into the toilet tanks in.

Your pump is not shutting off and building too much pressure.

I still blame the pressure switch. Stuck in "on".

probably bad pressure switch

I would turn off the power to the pump , open the faucets and tub spigot , then turn on the power to the pump and fill your tub and all your containers then turn off the power to the pump again until you can get a new pressure switch

looking at your picture you have the leads right there is the switch normally open or normally closed circuit I would guess closed any time there isn't enough pressure to open the circuit

an ohm meter would tell you

you may well be able to install a switch if you have a spare light switch laying around screw those ring terminals to it and turn it on when you want water off when you don't then you have a way to easily power on and off your pump to refill your containers

a plastic beer cup and 5 gallon pail in the shower get you clean very well a good size stock pot on the stove filled and gotten to a boil then pour in the bucket and add cold till a good temp for bathing

all my pluming problems seem to happen over new year also

well the dishwasher sprung a leak on Christmas day one year

and the belt for the blower on my furnace died July 3rd even as a heat wave hit

my house always has perfect timing , I have a spare of a few things now and wood heat

before I had a wood stove the coupler on my furnace oil pump went out as I was leaving to go to an aunts funeral got lucky and I have a friend who does hvac i called him and he came over while I was gone

When I was on well water I learned to keep a spare pressure switch on hand. It would have to be replaced every few years. The switch and pipe stub it was mounted on would get clogged with muck. I could clean the pipe stub but the switch was toast.

Last year, we had a large spider fry itself between the 2 contacts and short our well pump out. Diane found it and cleaned it up. It saved us a huge amount of money, that the well companies I called wanted to just come out.

Keith

I hate Subdrives. First thing to check is the transducer. They are the weak link with that setup. You sound handy so it will be a easy fix for you. That model should blink a code when malfunctioning. The fault code index is in the manual if not I have it or look it up on the web. Good luck

Thanks Pawnee, I’ve reduced it down to the pressure switch. When you tap on it with a screw driver handle it will run. Now it’s a matter of finding a replacement. I don’t know if i can use a hardware store switch or buy the Franklin switch. Going to run to the plumbing supply in the morning and pick their brains if I can retrofit. There isn’t a fault light on the control box though which I don’t understand.

Thanks for the info to all of you that responded. You’ll never know how annoying no water is until you’re without.

Sometimes sediment gets in the rubber valve on the pressure switch, and I've cleaned them out many times. Sometimes the small line gets stopped up and the pressure can't even get to the diaphragm. After I get them running I always use extra line and get the pressure switch up higher than the pump so when the pump goes off the sediment in the switch line will go back down some where else rather than settle in the diaphragm.

Interesting, i might take it off and check. Thanks Foxpaw

I had this happen once, also I take a fingernail file to the points, shut off power first.

The codes for the lights should also be posted inside the cover of the control box. the transducer is not just a standard pressure switch -- it reads milli volts and needs to have the correct range for the controller.